Fragrances
Esxence 2019: Masque Milano Love Kills Overview (Caroline Dumur) + Operatic Rose Draw
Masque Milano Love Kills and extra at Perfumariē (picture Hernando©)
Masque Milano‘s latest launch, Love Kills featured prominently among the many exceptional rose we smelt at Esxence Milano 2019. True to kind, Inventive Administrators Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi proceed to hunt the olfactory evocative – how finest to convey an operatic oeuvre through fragrance. Love Kills concludes Masque Milano’s story of anticipatory love (L’Attesa), its blossoming (Romanza), betrayal (Tango) and inevitable demise.
Perfumer Caroline Dumur of IFF picture by by Grégoire Mähler
The perfumer is rising star Caroline Dumur of IFF, identified for her current signed work: Étienne Aigner Icon (2018), Lolita Lempicka So Candy (2016), Paco Rabanne Pure XS (2017) and Pure XS Evening (2019).
Frank Bernard Dicksee Romeo and Juliet
That which blooms unexpectedly – effusively, passion-filled – might effectively fade as swiftly. “Tonight she is Imogen…and tomorrow evening she will likely be Juliet”, notes Alessandro Brun ascerbically, referring first to Shakespeare’s ‘most tender and most artless’ daughter of King Cymbeline and in the identical breath, literature’s immortal ill-fated heroine. If one is to watch appropriately, his intimation is perhaps interpreted as enjoying to a youthful viewers (each heroines are extraordinarily younger, however just one dies tragically); Love Kills, nevertheless – isn’t a deadly perfume, neither is it purely for youthful perfumisti. I really feel it because the fullness of rose arcing from éblouissant (dazzling) to fanée (light). Absolutely this amatory incidence is a common one. Masque Milano Love Kills is a flexible perfume which connotes shared expertise and wears superbly over time, working the gamut from recent and dewy to the woody rose powder of a cashmere scarf lengthy sequestered in a venerable patchouli-redolent touring trunk.
Alessandro Brun at Perfumariē holding Masque Milano Love Kills (picture Hernando)
Masque Milano Love Kills shares aspects with different beloved rose/patchouli perfumes whereas managing to retain its personal character. Within the drydown I’m reminded of Frederic Malle (Dominique Ropion) Portrait of a Girl, sure vestiges of Mendittorosa Le Mat. The previous is drier and extra powdery, the latter moist and inclining in the direction of immortelle, which in Le Mat imparts a syrupy herb-tinged high quality. This candy herbalcy is current in Love Kills and mingles affectionately with Ambrarome for a frivolously leathery impact dusted with tobacco. Etat Libre d’Orange Rossy de Palma Eau de Safety shares widespread bone construction: its metallic-edged thorns trace at one thing rose oxide-like: natural, spicy, earthy and really moist certainly. Rose oxide is triumphant in Love Kills’ high notes, a contact sharp-edged and fruity as effectively. Notes alone by no means reveal the complete histoire d’amour: one can make the most of most of the identical supplies with astoundingly various outcomes. Range in terroir, supply, local weather – a number of components exist which distinguish the scent of supplies bearing the identical nomenclature. Hardly ever is a rose is a rose is a rose, regardless of Mme. Gertrude Stein’s good intentions.
Maria Callas late 1950s
In Love Kills new love is hopeful, garden-fresh, bursting with promise – the inexperienced loveliness, tenderly musky ambrette as counterpart, a litchi-like juicy high quality. We have now rose and extra rose: hailing from Turkey each in absolute and rose oil, they sing of the complexity for which rose is famend, love’s full flush, open-throated and luscious.
L’Abbandano by Felice Casorati
From hovering to descent: rose plummets right into a velvety divan swathed in softest patchouli, resinous amber and immortelle rubbed with cedar and musk. Right here she lies till the final embers are extinguished and all that continues to be of a love which burned too ardently is powdered petals, rose mud and remorse. Even in mud Masque Milano Love Kills clings to misted reminiscence, for it was by no means an arid affair…
Notes: litchi, rose oxide, ambrette, Egyptian geranium, Turkish rose oil and absolute, inexperienced notes, molecular patchouli distillation, Ambrarome, immortelle, cedar, musk
Pattern offered by Masque Milano and Perfumariē – many thanks! My nostril is my very own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Pure Perfumery Editor
~ Artwork Route: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief (with images from Hernando Patrick Courtright) – thanks!
ÇaFleureBon Editor Ermano Picco was the Evaluator for Love Kills. He additionally selected the portray L’Abbandano for this piece
Photograph by Hernando ©
Because of the largesse of Alessandro Brun of Masque Milano we now have two 2 ml. samples of Masque Milano Love Kills for 2 registered readers worldwide. You have to register right here or your remark won’t rely. To be eligible, please go away a remark saying what you loved most about Ida’s overview, the place you reside, and when you have a favourite Masque Milano perfume. Draw closes 7/13/2019
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