Bogue Profumo OOOH illustration by Massimo Alfaioli
Antonio Gardoni, founder and nostril of Bogue Profumo, imbues intellectualism with a profound understanding of how artwork types overlap and syncopate with one another like steps in a classical ballet danced to modernist music. Consider the best way he makes waves of vetiver, weaving like seagrass in Berceuse’s Allegretto 7.2 appear to imitate the instrumental patterns of the second motion of Beethoven’s seventh. Or how MEM’s 4 lavenders handle to separate and merge so that you simply odor every distinctly at completely different occasions earlier than they merge with sensual honeyed, smoky and animalic notes, as if lavender was a play with 4 acts that ended somewhat than started with a seduction. With Bogue Profumo OOOH, Antonio Gardoni creates an microworld round mimosa. Notes emerge like watercolour spreading on thick paper, overlapping and creating new colors as they do. It’s not like any floral I’ve ever smelled.
Antonio Gardoni
Bogue Profumo OOOH was created for CaFleureBon’s 10th anniversary. It’s the end result of a year-long, four-way collaboration between CaFleureBon Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen (inventive director), former CaFleureBon editor, essayist and photographer Alex C. Musgrave (pictures), artist Massimo Alfaioli (packaging illustrations) and Antonio Gardoni (perfumer and bottle designer).
Within the Land of the Gods, Daphnis and Chloe by Marc Chagall
Bogue Profumo OOOH is a kaleidoscope of mimosa, rose, citrus, and resins that’s pollenous, grassy, natural, a bouquet of Marc Chagall flowers pouring from violet skies on a pale day. I used to be struck by Gardoni’s description of his idea for Bogue Profumo OOOH – fragrance as ghost or a mirage, a imaginative and prescient of what’s not there, a forged of reminiscence on an empty backdrop. He normal the fragrance round an thought of mud – not simply within the literal sense of a traveled street, however the residue smells of what was or may need been. Mimosa turns into pollen and fluff blown throughout an historic discipline. Rose returns to the greenness of its origins of stem and root. Natural aromas which have parched in a robust solar marry with dried lavender, jugged, rooty vetiver and yesterday’s citrus rind. And over all of it is a chiffon veil of incense. Every thing is in previous tense, even the aldehydes, whose glitter is muted to shimmer.
Bogue Profumo OOOH bottle designed by Antonio Gardoni
There are as many components in OOOH as within the unique Opium, and, like that nice perfume, OOOH walks the same tightrope between balancing and delineating myriad notes. However the place Opium is dense and hedonistic, dazzling with its jeweled tiara of notes, OOOH is a perfume whose opacity comes from gauzy layers of scent, every layer peeling away to disclose one other. The first spray tells me that is one in all Gardoni’s creations: a deeply purple lavender, benzoin and pollen buzz about one another like drowsy bugs. There’s an impression of honey, an enormous puff of mandarin and bergamot, a profusion of herbs and a tender hum of aldehydes. Rose smells absolutely of the blossom for a second earlier than it blows away to disclose the powdery, candy ash of mimosa. When the rose reappears, it’s greener, stemmier, youthful. It’s as if I walked from a summer time backyard backward into springtime.
Commemorative packaging design by Massimo Alfaioli
The honeyed lavender of the opening hovers all through OOOH’s improvement, obvious extra so one second than the subsequent. Within the center phases, the mimosa blooms absolutely and hangs within the air because the aldehydes maintain it aloft. There’s an natural, nearly branchy dryness that crackles by now, a loamy trace of Java vetiver and patchouli, adopted instantly by the slight petrol whiff of Haitian vetiver. The varied notes are in full profusion now, working collectively in a symphony of flowers, crops, resins and citrus juice. I can nearly hear what I’m smelling.
Photograph by Alex C. Musgrave
It is just when the music dies down that I discover the incense, extending quiet tendrils round some refined sandalwood. Right here, within the closing phases of OOOH’s trajectory, Gardoni’s ghost floats into view. The incense is gentle however provides the phantasm of an overlay of mud scattered throughout the crops, resins and fruit. There’s a fleeting high quality to the perfume which has nothing to do with how lengthy it wears. It comes from the best way notes seem after which change into echoes of themselves as different notes transfer previous them. Solely ten bottles of Bogue Profumi OOOH had been made; its magnificence, just like the flowers and grasses of which it’s made, is ephemeral. Realizing its loveliness is right here for less than a short time etches this perfume into a stunning, if poignant, reminiscence.
Notes: Petitgrain mandarin, petitgrain bigarade, bergamot furocumarine free, vetiver Haiti, aldehydes, vetiver Sri Lanka, lavandin grosso, lavender absolute 100%, ylang ylang further, benzoin Siam, benzoin Sumatra, cypress Spain, cypress blau Australia, atlas cedarwood, geranium bourbon, rose absolute 100% Bulgaria, rose absolute 100%, Afghanistan, vanilla absolute bourbon 100%, bitter orange, jasmin absolute 100%, jasmine sambac absolute 100%, mimosa absolute 100%, patchouli, tonka bean absolute 100%, myrrh, white grapefruit, olibanum Somalia, olibanum India, juniper berry, sandalwood, neroli.
Disclaimer: Bottle of OOOH past generously given to me by Bogue Profumo. My opinions are my very own.
Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Observe us on Instagram: @cafleurebon @elledebee @bogue_profumo @everdandyfox @massimoalfaioli
Samples of OOOH can be found at Luckyscent. Whereas the 6 bottles of this very restricted version bought out inside minutes, and there’s a Luckyscent public sale. The public sale is dwell till Friday, April 10, at 5:48 DST (verify public sale for precise time). All proceeds from Luckyscent’s auctionwill be donated to Fondazione comunita bresciana onlu, a hospital in Brescia, Italy, Antonio’s house city. Antonio bought his archival bottle of Bogue OOOH to a collector for three.8000 and the proceeds might be wired on to Fondazione comunita bresciana onlus.
Photograph by Michelyn
Due to the generosity of Bogue Profumo and Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen, we have now one eight ml decant of OOOH for one registered reader within the U.S. You should be registered or your remark won’t rely. To be eligible, please go away a remark giving us your impressions of Bogue Profumo OOOH based mostly on Lauryn’s evaluate. Draw closes four/11/2020.
Expensive readers: We encourage everybody with the means to donate both cash or time to your native hospitals, (Carlos Huber of Arqusite delivered lunch yesterday for over 200 healthcare staff at New York’s NYU Langone Kimmel Pavillion @arquiste on Instagram), homeless shelters, give blood and please help your native small companies, together with unbiased perfumers and boutiques.
When in any respect doable PLEASE STAY AT HOME.
COVID-19, though devastating our world can unite us. It won’t defeat us –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief
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