While a lot of its rivals are suspending 2020 novelties, Breitling maintains its high type and launches a variety of utterly new watches with out hesitation. Key amongst these are the 10 new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watches for 2020, all utterly redesigned.
Since its 1984 debut, the reliable, practical, and trendy Breitling Chronomat has earned its place among the many most beloved and profitable Breitling collections. Lots of its iterations have managed to be the perfect all-purpose watch that mixed a style of Breitling’s trademark flamboyance with sturdy development, each in and out. 2020 sees a long-awaited overhaul with the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 assortment and, in typical Breitling trend, it occurs with not one or two, however a bunch of mannequin variations and particular editions. Let’s dig in.
An official Breitling Chronomat evolution collage from 2014 — with my addition of the 2020 model. Notice the transitions between straight and curved lugs.
I hardly ever infuse private preferences into information articles, and I’ll hold most of it for the Wrist Time evaluate, however I would like the Chronomat lovers amongst you to know that this primary take a look at the brand new Breitling Chronomat 2020 assortment is written by a fellow Chronomat fan. In different phrases, I consider the Chronomat as one of the best all-round mechanical Breitling assortment of the 2000s and 2010s — which is why I used to be fairly bummed, and a bit scared, after I noticed the uncharacteristically bland replace to the gathering two years in the past.
The latest main iteration of the Chronomat, subsequent to the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 2020.
Now, I’m happy to say, the Breitling Chronomat is again to type with a very re-designed, thrilling look with a brand new case fashion and case dimension, new bracelet, and new dial choices. All that is carried out in tune with Breitling’s latest change of path (a change that occurred nearly precisely three years in the past up to now), which entails a extra vintage-inspired remix of up to date references. The Chronomat is lastly no exception, with the cumbersome, shiny, brick-like attract of the Chronomat 44 now re-tuned for a 1980s vibe.
The brand new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 for 2020 is available in a 42-millimeter-wide case that’s 15.10 millimeters thick and is notably rated water-proof to a powerful 20 bars, equal to 200 meters. You probably have ever held a contemporary Chronomat, you’ll know that particular, heavy, dense feeling — one thing that stems from the best way Breitling’s circumstances are stamped again and again. A little bit insider information, not in Breitling’s present press launch, however one thing that has contributed massively to that uniquely “dense” really feel of a Chronomat: Chronomat circumstances had been stamped over the course of two weeks and over 15 instances, subjected to a complete stress of 875 tons, heated to 1,100°C (2,zero12°F) earlier than every stamping. So yeah, the Chronomat has all the time had just a few tips up its sleeve to achieve that particularly rugged and reliable really feel. Final I heard (in November, final yr), Breitling nonetheless makes use of the identical Swiss provider and the identical strategies for its metal circumstances, so I anticipate the identical heavy-duty but refined vibe from these new Chronomats, and nothing much less.
The large aesthetic adjustments to the case, past the downgraded diameter that went from 44 to 42, are the straighter lugs that hearken again to the unique, and the flatter bezel. The rider tabs are nonetheless there, and God is aware of I’ve tried, however I merely couldn’t inform from Breitling’s pictures if these tabs are certainly rider tabs that slide above a set bezel when turned or flip along with a one-piece bezel like on a extra peculiar watch. Maybe not probably the most important “replace” — however I wouldn’t dare name myself a Chronomat fan if I didn’t need these rider tabs to work as they need to.
The circumstances can be found in all-stainless metal; chrome steel with 18ok crimson gold bezel “rider tabs,” crown and pushers; chrome steel with a heavier reliance on 18ok crimson gold within the bezel and bracelet; and eventually, there’s a strong 18ok crimson gold cased model — albeit with out an all-gold bracelet, bought on the Black Diver Professional II rubber strap with an 18ok crimson gold folding clasp.
The Rouleaux bracelet makes a spectacular return, as properly. Breitling doesn’t say a lot about it aside from that it is available in all-stainless metal and two-tone chrome steel combined with 18ok crimson gold, each secured by a butterfly clasp. As such, we’ll reserve judgment on the Chronomat 42’s Rouleaux bracelet till we get to put on these throughout a hands-on or a evaluate. The tight rows of slim hyperlinks may imply a versatile and comfy match, however hair-pulling and a loud “operation” can solely be dominated out as soon as these are in our palms.
Classic Breitling 1983 Frecce Tricolori watch that impressed the Chronomat Assortment Launched in 1984 to Have a good time Breitling’s Centenary.
Altogether, there can be a complete of 10 completely different Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watches launched in 2020. All variations function the Breitling B01 manufacture caliber with self-winding, column wheel, and vertical clutch.
The 4 all-steel common manufacturing fashions include a alternative of silver, copper, blue, or black base-colored dials with contrasting sub-dials. This “panda” look is consistent with Breitling’s not too long ago launched rule that on common fashions, the presence of its in-house manufacture B01 caliber (and its variations) is indicated by contrasting-color sub-dials. ETA/Valjoux 7750-equipped chronographs have sub-dials matching the bottom colour of the dial. There may be an exception to each rule, and people are special-edition Breitling watches: They’ll have uni-color dials matched to a manufacture caliber.
The Frecce Tricolori restricted version makes a return, as properly. Pictured above, the primary Frecce Tricolori (Tricolor Arrows) model was the reference that impressed the Chronomats launched a yr later to have fun the model’s centenary, and so it is a vital and notable variation among the many frankly numerous completely different iterations the Chronomat has seen through the years. It returns with a blue-on-blue dial, the Frecce Tricolori at 12 o’clock, and a heavy-handed limitation of simply 250 items worldwide.
Bentley will get its personal particular version with reference AB01343A1L1A1, with the trademark racing inexperienced dial that we’ve got been seeing on Breitling-Bentley co-produced items. Lumed palms and indices and blacked sub-dials are current right here, as they’re on each reference, and the Rouleaux bracelet isn’t lacking both.
Past the vintage-inspired all-steel piece with just a few gold elements, there are three different references with better quantities of gold, for that added contact of luxurious and ’80s vibe. Judging from Breitling’s pictures, the 18ok crimson gold seems to be nice on the brand new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 — and though these clearly (and joyfully) don’t want to be actual copies of the originals, I ponder if an 18ok yellow gold choice would’ve additionally labored.
What Breitling retains doing higher than so many others is discovering the nigh-on excellent stability between classic inspiration and modern fashion. All of those, and particularly the three two-tone variations, have a definite classic aptitude however with a noticeable fashionable ingredient. Add to that good proportions, a recognizable design and, hopefully, the well-known rugged development of the gathering, and the Chronomat is certainly again to type.
Pricing for each Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watch in 2020 is as follows:
The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 metal variations are priced at $eight,100 with the silver, copper, blue or black dials (references AB0134101G1A1 ; AB0134101K1A1 ; AB0134101C1A1 or AB0134101B1A1).
The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Bentley is priced at $eight,250, reference AB01343A1L1A1
The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori can be priced at $eight,250, reference AB01344A1C1A1.
The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 two-tone is priced at $9,350 with the smaller gold accents, reference IB0134101G1A1.
The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 two-tone variations with gold bezels are priced at $12,100, references UB0134101C1U1 or UB0134101B1U1.
Lastly, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 in strong 18kt crimson gold is priced at $20,200, reference RB0134101B1S1.
You’ll be able to browse the brand new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 assortment at Breitling.com.
