Fragrances
Hermetica Multilotus, Rosefire, Patchoulight, Sandalsun & Greenlion ~ brief perfume evaluations
Hermetica is a brand new area of interest perfume line that launched in 2018; it affords “a group of molecular fragrances impressed by the traditional observe of alchemy” and was based by John and Clara Molloy (the duo behind Memo and Floraïku), who determined to “create a revolutionary assortment by not selecting between pure components or artificial molecules however utilizing a mix of the 2.” Moreover, Hermetica appears to be claiming the fragrances’ alcohol-free base as one other innovation.
I am no chemist, however I am elevating my eyebrows for just a few causes. First, all fragrances, and all matter, are fabricated from molecules. Second, aren’t most fragrances blended with a mixture of pure and artificial components? Third, different manufacturers have supplied fragrance in alcohol-free bases — CB I Hate Fragrance’s Water Perfumes and L’Officine Universelle Buly 1803’s Eau Triple water-based fragrances are two that come to my thoughts.
Alternatively, I like Hermetica’s collage-like visuals, its references to the Corpus Hermetica (a second-century philosophical textual content; you possibly can examine it right here) and the net “Codex” that gives details about components and notes. Mainly, I desire Hermetica’s academic angle to its eco-friendly angle. Hermetica makes extra sense to me as a youthful sibling to Memo, an choice for people who find themselves simply beginning to study area of interest perfumery.
I used to be sufficiently intrigued to buy a pattern set from a Hermetica counter, so listed below are some brief evaluations! The vast majority of Hermetica’s 13 fragrances, together with the 5 I am discussing right here, have been developed by perfumer Aliénor Massenet.
My two favorites belong to Hermetica’s Dry Waters trio of “floral and recent scents.” Multilotus is a composition of bergamot, inexperienced notes, osmanthus, jasmine sambac, sandalwood and musk. It comes throughout as a really pleasing, linear osmanthus perfume. I all the time get pleasure from osmanthus’s mingled sides of apricot, jasmine and tea sides, and never solely is that this a “true” osmanthus perfume, nevertheless it has a lot better endurance than another osmanthus fragrances I’ve tried (I am you, The Completely different Firm and Hermès!)
Additionally from the Dry Waters grouping, Rosefire contains notes of apricot, rose absolute, rose oxide, violet, davana and amber. On paper, Rosefire was too fruity for my style (the davana?). Nevertheless, on pores and skin, it bloomed into a up to date rose chypre, radiant and long-lasting, with a coronary heart of full-blown, jammy rose drying all the way down to a pointy, sheer amber base. It “layers” completely with Lush’s Rose Jam bathe gel.
I additionally loved sampling scents from The Door, a trio of “woody and candy” blends. One is Patchoulight, an re-interpretation of patchouli with notes of lemon, lingonberry, violet, iris, patchouli, rose and musk. This perfume seems like patchouli seen by means of a pane of inexperienced glass, with piercing citrus notes, hints of geranium leaf, and extra of the identical Ambrox-y base that appeared in Rosefire.
Sandalsun additionally belongs to The Door: it is a gourmand composition of bergamot, cocoa, sandalwood, vanilla, hazelnut and myrrh. It begins off candy, with beneficiant lashings of maltol and benzoin that make me consider Prada Sweet, though Sandalsun is softer and (for me, at the very least) a lot simpler to put on. It turns extra nutty-woody and gender-neutral within the dry down, nevertheless it stays cozy with out being cloying or heavy.
I like the title of Emerald Stairways, Hermetica’s group of “inexperienced and pure” fragrances, and my choose from this trio is Greenlion (one other enjoyable title). Greenlion’s listed notes embrace blackcurrant, juniper berry, basil, cardamom, lily of the valley, orange blossom, rosemary, patchouli, musk and amberwood. On my pores and skin, Greenlion begins off with an sudden almond word, barely dough-y and powdery. Then it delivers on its “inexperienced” promise, with its fragrant juniper surrounded by different leafy herbs.
Greenlion did not final lengthy on my pores and skin because the others, and its dry down was the acquainted artificial citrus-amber base that I’ve already talked about just a few instances. Actually, this base seems in various quantities in all of the Hermetica fragrances, as a compositional throughline. It is also the primary theme of Supply, the thirteenth member of the Hermetica line-up, which the model describes as “…each the bottom of all of Hermetica fragrances in addition to a standalone perfume in its personal proper…”
In the event you’re curious and need to dip into Hermetica, there are sampling choices; that is one other characteristic that made a good impression on me. Total, Hermetica’s fragrances do not feel as advanced and complex as Memo’s choices do. Nevertheless, they’re up to date and wearable, they usually function a really teachable “unit” and intro to perfumery, utilizing alchemy as a free inspiration. The “molecules” factor nonetheless bothers and confuses me, however one other spritz of Rosefire will in all probability make me overlook about it.
Hermetica Multilotus, Rosefire, Patchoulight, Sandalsun and Greenlion can be found as 50 ml ($135) or 100 ml ($195) Eau de Parfum by means of the Hermetica web site, Twisted Lily, Perfumology, and Bloomingdale’s. A discovery set of 13 samples ($35) can also be obtainable.
