This 12 months sees the eighth version of the Solely Watch public sale, which has been held biennially since 2005. Officiated by Christie’s and arranged by the Monegasque Affiliation towards Muscular dystrophy to lift funds for analysis into Duchene Muscular dystrophy, the occasions have so far raised greater than 40 million Swiss Francs by promoting the distinctive piece creations specifically produced for Solely Watch.
Among the best watchmakers round don their pondering caps and produce such a novel piece to go below the hammer — some participate with a longtime watch sporting a minor modification, whereas some others take part with completely “one-off” watches. This 12 months’s public sale sees as many as 50 items submitted from a complete of 52 watchmakers — with De Bethune and Urwerk, and MB&F and L’Epee collaborating on their submissions). This 12 months’s signature shade for the occasion (which is utilized in advertising supplies and conceived to offer each biennial assortment its personal distinct taste) is mild blue. Identical to in earlier years, watchmakers have used this shade to nice impact, enlivening their traditional items for one fortunate proprietor. Others, nevertheless, have gone for the no-holds-barred strategy and submitted a wild and great creation.
Moderately than take you thru all 50 items in nice depth, I’ve chosen my Prime Ten and can present a short rundown of them right here. Over the approaching days and weeks, we’ll present nearer appears to be like on the fashions that actually captured our creativeness and have relevance to the en masse. However should you can’t wait to see all 50 items, try the gallery on the backside of the web page, which incorporates all of them (minus the Bell & Ross piece, which isn’t obtainable but).
10. Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain Solely Watch
This platinum magnificence comes straight from the thoughts of Rexhep Rexhepi, who has seen match to emblazon the dial along with his title (and why not?). Regardless of that uncommon branding selection, this piece comes as a part of the Akrivia model canon, and one of many best, most wearable examples but in my view. At 38mm extensive and 9.5mm thick, that is one sublimely wearable watch. The in-house and expertly completed RR01 caliber boasts a formidable 100-hour energy reserve from one barrel. However Rexhepi didn’t obtain this piece completely by himself: The case was made by Mr. Jean Pierre Hagmann, the famed Genevan artisan, heralding the daybreak of a brand new partnership that might yield some very thrilling outcomes. The estimated hammer value for this mannequin is $40,000-60,000.
9. De Witt Academia Slide Solely Watch
Belief me, this one got here as a shock to me too. Whereas I very very similar to and respect the “time-toboggan” hour indicator, the unique Academia Slide by no means gave me butterflies. This mannequin, nevertheless, makes use of the Solely Watch colorway reasonably brilliantly and marries it with a scorching crimson, which makes this, to my eyes, the best look ahead to a Texas oilman nonetheless lamenting the exodus of the Houston Oilers. We solely have a tiny picture of it now, however that doesn’t cease me from showering it with reward. With a sale estimate of $60,000-$80,000, I doubt this piece will battle to discover a house. What can I say aside from “Luv Ya Blue!”
eight. Moritz Grossman Réserve de Marche Classique
My respect for what Moritz Grossman has been doing these days is flourishing into all-out love. This throwback piece builds on the core Réserve da Marche assortment, which is recognized by its horizontal “loading bar” energy reserve. Powered by the 100.2 caliber, this watch is typical of the Glashütte custom, boasting regionally distinct ending. The Roman Numerals are usually not widespread for the core assortment, neither is the champagne sunray dial. The usage of the Solely Watch 2019 mild blue is a masterclass in restraint. With a projected gavel value of $30,000-$50,000, this one appears an actual discount compared to the core vary. Prime marks for Moritz Grossman right here.
7. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked Solely Watch Version
When the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 launched earlier this 12 months, it grabbed virtually each column inch going. And no marvel! A brand new household from AP isn’t one thing we witness every single day. And what did the neighborhood make of it? Properly, there was numerous division. Whereas the case design (a candy name again to the octagonal bezel of the Royal Oak seen within the case center) was broadly praised, the dials, in line with many, left so much to be desired.
So right here we’re at quantity seven on our checklist, and the Code 11.59 has lastly smashed it out of the park for me right here. The busy, but congruous dial and the scrumptious two-tone case — which ties in properly with the barrel and tourbillon bridges — have set this piece other than nearly all of the gang. It’s one of many priciest on the checklist with a predicted sale value of $190,000-$240,000.
6. Piaget Altiplano Final Automated
This one got here as a little bit of a shock. Ariel and I mentioned the Piaget Altiplano Final Automated at extra size than we anticipated to in an upcoming podcast, just because the extra we checked out it (and dug into the cool automated motion), the extra we realized it was a major piece not only for Solely Watch, however for Piaget additionally.
What we’re taking a look at right here is an opulently styled, tastefully slim self-winding wristwatch in 18ct rose gold, sporting a technically superior and uncommon peripheral rotor. The colorway is traditional and tasteful. The motion show sufficiently technical. The performance and luxury? At Four.3mm skinny, this actually is without doubt one of the refined stars of the present. With an estimate of $30,000-$50,000, it actually has an opportunity to make waves.
5. Singer Reimagined Singer Observe 1 — Solely Watch Version
This one snuck up on the checklist like a thief within the night time. With its DLC-coated Damascus metal case, the Singer Reimagined Singer Observe 1 is an absolute barnstormer. First, it’s a extremely sophisticated chronograph that was developed by industry-veteran Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Second, it was specifically designed for world-renowned Porsche restorer, Singer, whose vehicles are priced effectively into the six-figures. Third, it’s offered in a fetching “John Participant Particular” colorway — one thing that can probably make a distinction to that one bidder within the room with a comfortable spot for the period of automobile racing outlined by this elegant, but menacing shade mixture. Third, however certainly not least, this piece is the results of a collaboration with Swedish model Gustafsson & Sjogren, that means this wunderkind has many doting dad and mom. And so though it carries a fairly steep estimate ($45,000-55,000), there’s little doubt in my thoughts it’ll climb that mountain after which some.
Four. De Bethune + Urwerk Moon Satellite tv for pc for Solely Watch 2019
Admittedly, this mixture would most likely find yourself in everybody’s high 5 earlier than even seeing the piddly little sketch that De Bethune and Urwerk deemed acceptable to supply… However ought to we actually be stunned? Two of the ’s most satisfying manufacturers for his or her oftentimes bonkers strategy to horology and the entire abandonment of its norms have collaborated to create one thing that might become fairly particular. Does it really feel like a partnership that ought to work not only for this mission, however for others going ahead? Sure. Does it seem like it takes probably the most recognizable components of each manufacturers and merges them seamlessly? Sure. Does the present sketch remind anybody else of Candy Mayhem’s helmet from the Lego Film? Solutions on a postcard… The highest estimate for the De Bethune + Urwerk Moon Satellite tv for pc for Solely Watch 2019 is $180,000.
three. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1 Night time Star FB 1.Four-Four
For Solely Watch 2019, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has adopted up its outstanding FB 1L with the Chronomètre FB 1 Night time Star FB 1.Four-Four. It’s yet one more — however not but boring — iteration of the FB 1 the place the strictly conventional motion design and marine chronometer-inspired case are mixed with high-tech or not less than extremely uncommon supplies. The ceramized titanium case is a factor of brooding magnificence, whereas the economic dial components by no means let-up on the darker persona this watch is making an attempt to mission.
For this watch to disclose its true means, you could flip it over in your arms (or just click on this hyperlink!). As soon as that’s completed, you will note the tourbillon motion with a fusee-and-chain transmission and a number of different extraordinary particulars. It’s one in every of watchmaking’s best-kept secrets and techniques, for me, and I by no means get uninterested in admiring the ending this comparatively low-output Maison (which is owned by Chopard) achieves time and time once more. An insignificant bid of $170,000-$200,000 ought to see you within the combine for this mannequin when the hammer falls.
2. F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue
I’ll fortunately take a little bit of flack for not placing this one high of the checklist (as a result of from a horological perspective, it most likely deserves to be). It was solely an excessive aesthetic admiration for the piece that topped the chart stored it from the primary place. However I’m only one man. I’d like to know your ideas within the feedback beneath.
Whereas this can be a prototype (and offered as such), it’s doable F.P. Journe is planning a brand new launch based mostly on this hyper-complicated timepiece. And why not? Who doesn’t need a watch that shows the hours, minutes, and seconds of common time, a second timezone, the hours and minutes of sidereal time, the time of the dawn and sundown, the part of the moon, the ability reserve, an annual calendar, and the equation of time?
One factor I additionally love is how easy F.P. Journe stored the title. In an age after we’re used to seeing names so long as press releases, the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue appears virtually impolitely curt, contemplating its fearsome checklist of capabilities. Severely. It virtually makes the truth that the idea motion encompasses a double barrel, minute repeater, 60-second tourbillon, and a dead-beat second surplus to necessities…
With a whopping estimated sale value of $300,000-$600,000, this one actually does signify the creme de la creme of the public sale.
1. Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire
Properly, they needed to wade via some fairly stiff competitors to get to the highest step, however the horological brothers have completed it. Should you permit a private word, I’ll share that the Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire has stolen my coronary heart. I like the frosted dial and the visually partaking remontoire system. On the 9 o’clock place of the dial, a blue “Governor” spins each eight seconds. This characteristic is performing a lot the identical operate as a fusee-and-chain system: its goal is to provide the escapement with fixed power all through the mainspring’s lifespan. It’s a phenomenal addition to an already stellar assortment. And with a flash of orange adorning the again of the Ostrich leather-based strap, the Grönefeld boys keep true to their roots as soon as extra. Consultants assume this piece will fetch someplace within the area of $48,000-$69,000, which appears like a very good end result for all concerned. Be taught extra concerning the Solely Watch 2019 watches at onlywatch.com.
