There are progressive manufacturers, after which there may be Ulysse Nardin. Whereas it’s, in essence, a traditional manufacture, it makes use of the Swiss watchmaking custom as a basis to innovate and push the envelope. This has resulted not solely in lots of progressive watches, with equally revolutionary actions, but in addition in introducing new supplies on the planet of watchmaking. Haute Time sat down with Stéphane von Gunten, Ulysse Nardin’s Analysis and Innovation Director, to debate the newest developments in New York, as Watches of Switzerland boutique in Soho.
Stéphane von Gunten, Ulysse Nardin’s Analysis and Innovation Director
Ulysse Nardin has a really revolutionary strategy to conventional watchmaking. What makes it that Ulysse Nardin is so completely different on this facet from many different manufactures?
I feel that we have now a superb mixture of conventional watches and trendy watches. In 2001, we have been the primary to make use of silicon for mechanical watches. This was within the Freak mannequin. It’s nonetheless the case right now that we’re very revolutionary, and we strive new issues however with respect to the custom. My grandfather was, a watchmaker and the opposite one an engineer within the area of watchmaking. Once I work on new issues, new shows, new mechanisms for the watches, I attempt to respect them. Now we have new prospects lately, however with them, we do attempt to respect the outdated spirit of watchmaking.
What do you take into account the primary problem when creating a brand new watch/motion?
The principle problem is usually the lead time, the time that we have now from the thought to market launch. Now we have many concepts at Ulysse Nardin, for instance with the ‘FREAK neXt’ we began about ten years in the past. I filed the primary patent in 2009, and since then we filed for 2 different patents for this watch, and we have now simply introduced the idea watch in March of this 12 months. Now we have short-term initiatives and long-term initiatives, and we even have to combine them by way of human assets, and the primary level is that they get finished with the precise individuals.
Ulysse Nardin Freak X
The Freak has been a signature watch from Ulysse Nardin for fairly some years now, but you at all times appear to have the ability to develop it additional. What does the method behind this seem like?
What we are saying on a regular basis is that the Freak is a laboratory on the wrist. It is sort of a miniature showcase: we are able to see the minute gear prepare very nicely and this can be a good foundation to play with. For instance, on the ‘FREAK neXt,’ we determined to show the brand new flying oscillator. If we have now a novelty, it’s good to first combine it on the Freak after which afterward the usual calibers.
Ulysse Nardin is a pioneer relating to introducing new supplies to the watchmaking trade. What supplies do you suppose will play crucial function within the close to future for mechanical watchmaking?
I’m fairly assured that we’ll go additional with the silicon expertise as a result of it’s a actual breakthrough in watchmaking. We are able to obtain unbelievable precision when making elements. The precision is round zero.1 micrometer, so it is rather exact. It opens our thoughts to new mechanisms, to new shows, to new prospects for mechanical watches. Once more, the FREAK neXt is an effective instance, as a result of we have now these very skinny springs that play the function of the hairspring. So I really feel strongly that we are able to develop additional with the silicon expertise. Apart from that, we have now in fact different supplies we glance into, however we solely use them when we have now a superb purpose. And a superb purpose is a technical purpose, it’s by no means a advertising and marketing purpose. After we can combine the technical purpose with the advertising and marketing purpose, it’s good. That’s one of the best, and we did it with the silicon expertise.
Ulysse Nardin Freak Imaginative and prescient
In what route can we count on the upcoming watches from Ulysse Nardin to go in?
We attempt to additional develop our present traces. With the Freak X, for instance, which I generally name the infant Freak as a result of it’s a bit smaller. It’s actually a Freak mannequin that you need to use as every day put on. You’ll be able to put on it from Monday by Friday after which swap to your Freak Imaginative and prescient, which is extra like the daddy of the Freak assortment. The principle thought right here is to have a Freak-line, beginning round $20okay all the way in which as much as $200Ok/$300Ok. I’m positive that the completely different prospects can discover a Freak-model that which is acceptable to the necessity that they’ve.
What’s your favourite proper now?
My favourite proper now’s, in fact, the FREAK neXt. However moreover the FREAK neXt, I have to say that I just like the Freak X fashions as a result of they’re fairly gentle, they’re solely 43mm in diameter, so they’re actually handy for every day use.
For these thinking about taking a better take a look at these exceptional watches, Ulysse Nardin is collaborating with Watches of Switzerland Soho to deliver an unique Pop-up retailer. It lets you expertise ‘the X-factor in watchmaking,’ from the Freak Imaginative and prescient to the volcanic Skeleton X Magma. It is going to additionally imply the US introduction of the Leap Movement software program, which provides watch fans the power to discover the world of the Freak X in unbelievable element by augmented and digital actuality. The Ulysse Nardin Pop-up is open from now till the tip of September 2019 and may be discovered at Watches of Switzerland Soho, 60 Greene Avenue, New York.
