Carry a Loupe: A 1960s Vulcain Cricket, A Cartier Tank Asymètrique Ref. 2488, And A Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Ref. E168

We’d’ve taken a break for final week’s lengthy weekend, however the prepare is rolling as soon as once more, with somewhat one thing for everybody. On the sportier finish of the spectrum, we’ve received an unconventional although vital dive watch from ZRC, together with an adventure-ready Geophysic from Jaeger-LeCoultre, and a Vulcain Cricket to wake you up for stated journey. For people who want one thing extra refined, we’ve received you lined with a restricted Tank  Asymètrique, and the proper girls Breitling. Let’s get proper right down to it. 

ZRC Grand Fonds Sequence 2

There’s a couple of option to pores and skin a cat, so are there are extra methods than one in every of attaining a practical dive watch design. Frankly, I would like no involvement in any way within the former of the 2 actions, so let’s give attention to dive watches in the meanwhile. Whereas we might wax on collectively about one other newest and biggest gilt dial, four-liner to floor this week, I assumed I’d preserve issues attention-grabbing with a chunk you won’t be conversant in. It’s known as a ZRC Grand Fonds Sequence 2, and it’s as vital as it’s hanging, with a wealthy historical past of use by the French Marine Nationale, along with divers working alongside Jacques Cousteau himself. Don’t let the crown at six o’clock idiot you, there’s rather a lot to love right here.  

Compared to the Sequence three variant of ZRC’s Grand Fonds, the Sequence 2 is maybe extra enticing, in my view. I’d attribute quite a lot of this stance to that unbelievable, pseudo polka dot bezel, that actually ties the room collectively, so to talk. As the vendor notes of their itemizing, all too many examples of the classic Sequence 2 Grand Fonds are fitted with aftermarket bezels, in that their OEM counterparts both cracked or aged intensely after years of devoted put on. This makes the presence of the unique bezel, in excellent form, an awfully welcome sight. To provide you somewhat context, I do know collectors who’ve spent upwards of three months monitoring down respectable to meh examples of Sequence 2 bezels, so this actually is a uncommon deal with. 

All in all, this actually is among the cleanest, compelling classic dive watches obtainable available on the market proper now. Except for ZRC and Triton, there simply aren’t all that many uniquely configured and traditionally vital dive watches with documented, issued use. With the crown at six, this can be a purpose-built watch by means of and thru, and to see it lastly being thought to be extremely appropriately is a pleasure to expertise.

A vendor based mostly right here in Toronto has this instance of the unconventional diver up for grabs, with an asking value of $6,900. Get the total scoop right here.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Ref. E168

I’m unsure about you, however I’m fascinated with the idea of hyper-utilitarian designs. I’m speaking about no-nonsense designs so good that their enchantment turns into virtually common, and a staple within the on a regular basis lives of many. Suppose Carhartt Ok87 tees, Sharpie markers, Bic lighters – you get the thought. What it comes right down to with merchandise like these, is that they had been designed such that they might all the time be relied upon to get a activity performed, and performed nicely. Whereas I’m unsure Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Geophysic is in fairly the identical finances class as a workwear t-shirt, there’s an identical spirit of willingness to take no matter life throws at it that’s definitely synonymous with the 2.

Geophysics don’t floor day by day, however one instance did simply that lately, when for Antiquorum’s upcoming Monaco sale went dwell. That is the Ref. E168, and I’m notably keen on each this instance and reference for 2 key causes. First off, as a lot because the crosshair dial is a sight to be seen and celebrated, I want the extra understated vibe I get from this dial. As for why this specific instance has me feeling saucy, all of it comes right down to its trustworthy situation. When Geophysics have surfaced previously, I’ve discovered a unusually massive portion of them to be scarily clear, if that makes any sense. In different phrases, it appeared as if humorous enterprise was about. This isn’t to say that a coughing, cane-carrying, black lunged Geophysic on its final legs is what I’m after, however I need to see somewhat little bit of age. 

Why, you ask? As a result of the Geophysic was fairly actually incepted by the Swiss for the aim of doing cool stuff. If not satisfied, google JLC Geophysic, and spend a couple of hours traversing the a long time of exploration and journey which have come to outline references like this. Ought to this concept enchantment to you, however being one other man with an Explorer on his wrist doesn’t, I’d extremely advocate taking a better take a look at this piece.

In cooperation with Boule Public sale Home, Antiquorum shall be providing this piece of their upcoming Monaco sale, going down on July 16th. The estimate has been set at €5,000 to €7,000 and extra data will be discovered right here. 

1960 Vulcain Cricket

As we’ve mentioned previously, nice watches don’t have to interrupt the financial institution. There’s certainly one thing to be stated for shelling out the large bucks on a chunk with maybe a little bit of funding potential, however relating to simply eager to take pleasure in one single watch, I personally see little cause in going all out and flooring it. In and across the $1,500 mark, there’s all kinds of noteworthy choices, of which Vulcain’s Cricket is not any exception. Predictably, I got here throughout an instance worthy of equal be aware on the market on eBay, and have now included it in hopes that another person will declare it earlier than I determine to take action. 

The instance in query at this time dates again to 1960, and is being provided in nice form. For those who’ve received your containers prepared, now can be the time to start out checking them, in that this little quantity not solely has an unpolished case, however a flawless dial in addition, full with all authentic luminous plots, and uniquely formed, utilized indices. The unique crown is a pleasant element, as nicely, which enhances the general originality of the 35 mm, alarm watch. Whereas on the subject, if you happen to’ve by no means heard a Cricket in motion, or any mechanical alarm outfitted timepiece, I extremely encourage altering that. As pretentious as it might sound, there’s one thing epic about waking as much as the sound of a mechanical alarm. 

Earlier than I provide the skinny on the place this watch is up for grabs, I’d prefer to direct your consideration in direction of the chrome steel case, as soon as once more. That is what an unpolished watch seems to be like, and don’t let anybody let you know in any other case. Simply as I preferred seeing somewhat little bit of age on the aforementioned Geophysic, a couple of floor scratches to distinction sharp case strains are all the time a superb signal, versus eyebrow-raising, unscathed perfection. One other signal supporting that  it hasn’t been polished is the caseback engraving, which stays deep and outlined to today.

For those who received bit by the alarm watch bug studying by means of all that, this piece is being provided by an Italian vendor for €1,250.

Women’ Breitling

In my expertise, the addition of the phrase “girls” to the ending of most common sounding sentences yields a uniquely creepy consequence. A watch prefaced by the phrase, nevertheless, is one other story. Women’ watches are actually deserving of much more consideration, partially attributable to the truth that they’re merely one other class of watches which will be studied, and likewise because of their minuscule intricacy. This week, I managed to hunt one down a Breitling designed with the ladies’s market in thoughts, and thought I’d share it with you.

This watch is completely tiny, at simply 24.5 mm throughout, which is roughly the diameter of a U.S. quarter. Regardless of its measurement, Breitling managed to keep up all the commonplace detailing and accents that they’d equip any of their different watches with – a testomony to their dedication to high quality throughout the board. Figuring out the scale of the watch, it’s fairly exceptional to contemplate the truth that a manually wound caliber retains the entire present operating, below the quilt of a screw-down caseback. What’s mechanically doable on such a small, small scale has lengthy fascinated me, and is a part of the rationale why I personally gather such watches, and urge you to do the identical, even if you happen to don’t plan on sporting them. It’s additionally extremely nicely fitted to the extra logical function, which might be adorning a woman’s wrist.  

With all this stated, it needs to be identified that the watch in query at this time additionally occurs to be insanely clear, with what seems to be to be a flawless dial, which you’ll discover nonetheless has all of its luminous numeral functions intact. On a special strap, I feel this may make an unbelievable addition to a girl’s assortment. 

An eBay vendor based mostly out of the UK has this watch listed for simply £275, although you even have the choice to make a proposal. Figuring out the beast that’s this column, I’d anticipate this one to maneuver shortly. 

Cartier Tank Asymètrique Ref. 2488

Right here’s somewhat perception into the mechanics of the public sale world. For those who’ve by no means attended a sale or watched one go down on-line, it’s price noting that not all watches promote, leaving varied homes with figurative leftovers. If like myself, you comply with public sale catalogues incessantly, you’re in all probability able to recognizing stated leftovers in subsequent catalogues. Lengthy story brief, this occurred not way back, however within the midst of acquainted faces, a brand new few surfaced, as nicely. Recently, I’ve been on a little bit of a Cartier kick, and knew I couldn’t not embrace this upon first look. 

Previously, I’ve heard Cartier’s Tank described as “boring” on a couple of event by typically unseasoned collectors. One hand I don’t lend a lot weight to that evaluation, however on the opposite I feel it additionally rings true, to a level. You see, the flexibility of a Tank to each stand out and disappear into the background is a product of its genuinely timeless model, which stays largely unchanged to today. With that stated, Cartier has most positively deviated from custom previously, with enjoyable and thrilling takes on the flagship Tank. One such instance is that this subsequent piece, the Tank Asymètrique. 

Because the title and pictures would recommend, symmetry has been foregone in favour of flare with this one, and it’s an excellent look. That is the ref. 2488, and it represents a contemporary effort to pay homage to the unique Asymètriques of the late 1930s, initially launched to extend legibility whereas performing different duties like driving. Though we’re speaking a few Tank from the ’90s and never a grail-tier, awe-inspiring OG Tank, that is nonetheless no strange watch, and the manufacturing numbers must show it. With solely 400 examples produced for the world — 300 in yellow gold, and simply 100 in platinum – there’s positively one thing particular happening right here. For the proper mixture of conservative and off the wall, I’d greater than doubtless look on this course. 

Monaco Legend Auctions shall be providing this Tank of their upcoming sale of “Unique Timepieces & Jewels,” going down on July 17th in Monaco. The estimate has been set at €11,500 to €23,000, and the place it finally ends up is anybody’s guess. 

Theft Alert

Given the character of the watch neighborhood, and folks coming collectively for causes of all kinds, it solely felt becoming to unfold the phrase a few lower than supreme scenario that occurred a couple of days in the past. Earlier this week, an area collector was robbed of his MK6 Ref. 1680 Crimson Submariner at a fitness center in downtown Toronto, upon leaving it in a locker throughout a exercise. 

I’ve seen eventualities like such happen previously, and it’s typically a matter of discovering who now has the watch listed on the market, as a substitute of who stole it, given simply how shortly watches will be offloaded onto the subsequent individual. 

Authorities have been contacted, however spreading the phrase is paramount. With this in thoughts, preserve your eyes out for a watch that appears like this, bearing these numbers, wherever it’s possible you’ll be looking for watches within the coming weeks. 

Serial: 3789493