Reference Factors was dreamed up as our method of providing definitive guides to the world’s most necessary watches, giving collectors a spot to search for correct, complete info offered in a digestible method. Going all the way in which again to the primary installment in 2014, it has persistently been one among our most requested options, whereas additionally being one of the vital time-intensive to supply. The assets required to collect collectively dozens of remarkable watches, to associate with main consultants within the amassing neighborhood, and to correctly doc a long time of historical past are extraordinary. Consequently, we’re extraordinarily proud to current Reference Factors for the Rolex Submariner.
A foolish query that we get requested fairly a bit right here at HODINKEE is, “What’s the finest watch?” Positive, I get why individuals ask it and what they’re getting at, but it surely’s not possible to say something is “the most effective” while you’re coping with one thing as subjective and private as wristwatches. What you want aesthetically, the historical past that is significant to you personally, and the idiosyncrasies of how you reside your life all affect that reply of that query. Nonetheless, there is a comparable query that we additionally get requested so much, for which I do assume there are a number of good solutions: “What’s an important watch of all time?” The Rolex Submariner is a fairly darn good reply. It isn’t the one reply, but it surely’s one which I discover robust to argue with.
Since its introduction in 1953, the Rolex Submariner has in some ways outlined not solely the dive watch class, however the sport watch class extra broadly. Whenever you say “wristwatch” I feel a big proportion of individuals image one thing just like a Rolex Submariner of their heads, whether or not they know why or not. The Sub has been worn by world luminaries, icons of the silver display screen, sports activities legends, and mainly some other set of noteworthy individuals you’ll be able to title. The very notion of a black-dialed chrome steel watch with a rotating timing bezel, luminous arms, and a snug bracelet was broadly popularized by the Submariner.
Regardless of all of that although, the Submariner is an often-misunderstood watch. There have been properly over a dozen distinct references of the Submariner, with up to a couple hundred whole variants relying on how thinly you wish to begin sub-dividing particular person references based mostly on dial textual content, lume plots, and extra. We thought it was about time that we break issues down and make the entire vary of Submariners slightly simpler to grasp. As you’d anticipate although, we needed to set some boundaries for ourselves: We’re solely overlaying classic Submariners right here, beginning with the primary correct 1953 Submariner and dealing our method up via the final of the basic ref. 5513 Submariner. The entire watches right here have four-digit reference numbers and acrylic crystals. As soon as we get into five-digit reference numbers, sapphire crystals, and different technical improvements, we get into squarely fashionable watches, that are a story for an additional time.
To make this all doable, we teamed up with Eric Wind, longtime HODINKEE collaborator and founding father of Wind Classic, who tapped deep into the classic Rolex collector neighborhood to drum up greater than three dozen really world class watches for us to shoot and research.
The Genesis Of The Submariner
As we famous in Reference Factors: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller, the Rolex Submariner was among the many very first dive watches available on the market and it rapidly grew to become essentially the most iconic. The Sub represents a form of inflection level for Rolex as an organization and the way it might go on to turn out to be what it’s in the present day. Previous to the 1950s, Rolex was making principally watches that in the present day we would describe as costume watches or all-purpose watches of 1 variety or one other. Bubblebacks, two-register chronographs, and Datejusts have been the model’s core choices. Sure, these included necessary improvements just like the waterproof Oyster case and the so-called “perpetual” computerized actions, however they weren’t correct sport watches as we would acknowledge them in the present day.
All of that began to vary because the ’40s tuned into the ’50s. The earliest Rolex Explorer fashions made their strategy to the summit of Everest (you’ll be able to see the unique proper right here, in truth) and the model started experimenting with a brand new form of design language that might come to dominate its choices over the subsequent decade. White and silver dials turned to black, lume plots received a lot greater and began standing in for utilized hour markers, circumstances began to get a bit beefier, and rotating bezels grew to become the norm. Combos of those traits would consequence within the Explorer, the GMT-Grasp, the Milgauss, and extra.
The 12 months 1953 would change into an enormous 12 months for Rolex. It was that 12 months that the bizarre ref. 6202 Flip-O-Graph, the Explorer (in a number of references), and the ref. 6204 Submariner all debuted. The primary of these could be very carefully tied to the Submariner, although a bit smaller and slimmer, with a flat or honeycomb dial and modern arms, although it nonetheless has that now-familiar feel and appear. This trio of watches would kick off the period of Rolex design that in the present day we most carefully affiliate with the model and its iconic standing. They have been sport watches with refined design parts and a cohesive language that spoke to discovering easy options to complicated issues. They have been, in some ways, the easiest form of instrument watches from the get-go.
1953 was a giant 12 months for Rolex. (Images: Courtesy Christie’s)
So, with out additional ado, here’s a rundown of each Rolex Submariner reference from the very first via to the beginning of the fashionable period. Take a deep breath. Let’s go.
That is it: The very first watch to say “Submariner” on the dial. Typical literature will let you know that the Submariner was first launched in 1954, however that is simply when Rolex formally introduced the watch and began advertising it. These earliest items are literally dated to late 1953 by serial quantity and the stamp on the within caseback, with the earliest items exhibiting “II.53” manufacturing timing.
Trying on the reference 6204, you’ll be able to clearly inform that the watch is a Submariner, however quite a lot of the important thing traits are barely totally different. First off, the case remains to be comparatively skinny in comparison with later fashions. Mixed with the very small 5.3mm crown, this watch is believed to have been water-resistant to 100 meters, although there’s one identified early commercial on the market that claims a 200m depth score. There’s additionally the bezel, which is a bit bolder in fashion, with out smaller graduations between zero and 15. You will additionally discover that the gilt dial is way more sparse and that as an alternative of the Mercedes hand set we’ve extraordinarily slim pencil-shaped arms and a seconds hand with a small lollipop on the tip.
These early 6204s have been powered by the Rolex caliber A260, which was repurposed from earlier Oyster Perpetual fashions, together with quite a lot of later bubblebacks. It was essentially the most strong computerized motion Rolex had on the time, with inbuilt shock safety, making it the fitting match for the fledgeling Submariner.
In the event you’re trying to choose up a watch like this your self, it is best to seek the advice of with a real skilled first. There are all form of little variations and quirks that you will wish to make certain are kosher earlier than you provoke that financial institution switch, and that is nonetheless very a lot from the Wild West period of the Submariner, the place documentation is scarce and misinformation plentiful.
There are two fundamental dial variations for the 6204: the earliest examples by serial quantity have a “break up brand” that sometimes has “Oyster” and “Perpetual” spaced additional aside (some with the everyday flat dial and a few with honeycomb textured dials) and the extra typical model you see right here that has “Oyster Perpetual” positioned collectively under Rolex like we see on Submariners in the present day. There may be additionally a really uncommon model that claims “Sub-Aqua” as an alternative of “Submariner” that was produced for the British market, however these are exceedingly uncommon. One different factor to look out for is the feel of the non-honeycomb dials – regardless of being from the age of shiny, gilt dials, these 6204 dials are likely to get a matte, mottled end. In the event you see one which’s too shiny, it is most likely too good to be true.
Reference 6205 (Clear Dial & Pencil Arms): 1954
Wait, did we simply go backward? This watch does not say “Submariner” on it wherever, but it surely does in truth come after the reference 6204 with “Submariner” at six o’clock. Being the opaque black field that it’s, we do not know why Rolex determined to briefly take away the signature textual content from the dial in early 1954, however they did, and the result’s this so-called “clear dial” Sub. The one two traces of textual content on the dial are the Rolex signature and “Oyster Perpetual” beneath, however in any other case it is similar to the gilt chapter ring dial of the 6204. The arms are additionally comparable, retaining the pencil-and-lollipop configuration. That is the final Submariner to not characteristic the Mercedes arms.
Two necessary modifications you wish to make certain to note are the case and the crown: The previous is a bit thicker and the latter was upsized from 5.3mm to 6mm. There isn’t any elevated water resistance but, however the concept was to make the watch a bit extra rugged and the crown a bit simpler to control (these tiny 5.3mm crowns are fiddly to say the least). So far as dial variations go, they’re similar to these of the 6204, apart from this “clear dial” which is exclusive to this reference.
Reference 6205 (Signature & Mercedes Arms): 1954
Whereas this is similar reference because the watch instantly above, it is beginning to look much more like Submariners that you just see throughout. The phrase “Submariner” is again on the dial at six o’clock and eventually we have got the distinctive Mercedes hour hand and a seconds hand with a straight tip after the lollipop. One factor to notice about these arms although is how lengthy they’re. They are much longer than what you may see in a bit on 5512s and 5513s, with the shaft between the central level of the dial and the Mercedes a part of the hour hand being longer and the minute hand reaching all the way in which out to the chapter ring. In the event you see shorter arms, you recognize they are a later set from service or humorous enterprise.
The 6205 you see right here has the identical no-hash bezel from the 6204, however there are variations initially produced with the bezel insert that might turn out to be common in a while, that includes a pink triangle at 12 o’clock at zero/60 and the hash marks from that time till 15. That is solely true for 6205s with Sub signatures and Mercedes arms – all pencil-hand, no-signature watches ought to have no-hash bezel inserts. You will additionally wish to verify any watch to make it possible for the bezel itself is period-correct, with the coin-edge as an alternative of the bigger knurling – in any other case it could possibly be an outright swap as an alternative of a variation.
Reference 6200 (Explorer Dial): 1955-1956
Now issues begin to get actually wild. This watch got here two years after the 6204 however has a decrease reference quantity. Why? No person actually is aware of. The very best guess is that it was in growth earlier however Rolex determined to carry it for some purpose. However some other guess you’ve gotten might be simply as strong, if we’re being sincere.
The World’s Most Costly Submariner
Whereas the overwhelming majority of no-crown-guards Explorer dial Submariners are ref. 6200s, there are some ref. 6538s that bear this uncommon dial configuration too. They’ll find yourself fetching large at public sale, and the model you see right here, with a pink depth score however no bezel, bought for over $1 million in June 2018, making it the most costly Submariner on the planet.
Learn our full report right here.
The 6200 is without doubt one of the all-time nice Submariner references and one which essentially the most critical collectors get very enthusiastic about. It is usually known as the “King Sub” by these locally. It was the primary Submariner to make use of the 8mm “large crown” with the “Brevet” signature on the surface. It additionally launched a brand new dial to the combination, the Explorer Dial, so-called due to the Three-6-9 markers that join it to that different well-known Rolex mannequin. We’re nonetheless properly earlier than the times of depth rankings and chronometer certifications, so these dials have an open, clear look to them that we would not actually see once more on future Submariners. This places all of the deal with these large Arabic numerals, which, rendered in radium, actually stand out.
The case on the 6200 is a bit thicker and broader than these discovered on earlier fashions too. Mixed with the bigger crown, this provided double the water resistance (200 meters) of earlier fashions. Throughout the 6200 reference, there are two fundamental variations, one with the small brand (above) and one with the massive brand (under). The previous doesn’t say “Submariner” at six o’clock, whereas the latter does. Each variations have the acquainted prolonged Mercedes arms and no-hash bezel from earlier references.
You may see simply how large a distinction the scale of the emblem element makes by way of the general really feel of the watch. There aren’t any actual numbers on what number of of every have been produced, but it surely’s thought that the overall quantity is someplace round 300, with many extra massive logos produced than small logos. Nonetheless, as a result of the reference is so uncommon to start with and examples in good situation are much more elusive, there’s not a considerable distinction in worth between the 2 brand variants, with situation and originality taking part in a way more necessary position.
Whereas it is actually not an important factor in regards to the ref. 6200, it is value noting that it received a brand new caliber as properly, the A296. By way of technical options, the motion was fairly just like the A260 caliber, but it surely was a bit bigger at 29.5mm (as an alternative of 26.4mm), making it a greater match contained in the bigger large crown case.
Reference 6536/1 (Earliest Model): 1956-1957
Now we’re entering into the weeds. Up till now, many of the Submariner references have been comparatively easy, with a number of little variations right here and there. With most of the references from 1956 ahead being produced for a number of years, the variations and variations improve and the trivialities turns into way more necessary for collectors in the present day.
The earliest reference 6536 examples have been truly “double reference” fashions with the 6538 (which we’ll get to in a minute), the place they’d the smaller 6mm crown as an alternative of the 8mm crown, with the 6538 crossed out by traces on the case and case again, with 6536 engraved under that. Solely a small quantity have been made earlier than they received their very own devoted case and reference, the 6536/1.
For the ref. 6536/1, there are three fundamental generations we wish to spotlight. Up first is the earliest model of this watch. Manufacturing began in 1956, overlapping a bit with manufacturing of the 6200. However it is a very totally different watch in some ways. First off, it is solely rated to 100 meters and options the smaller 6mm crown and the marginally slimmer case of the 6205. That is additionally the primary occasion we’ve of a “four-line” Submariner dial, which says “Rolex / Oyster Perpetual” at 12 o’clock and “100m = 330ft / Submariner” at six o’clock. The dial itself remains to be gilt, with ample radium lume plots and a chapter ring. The no-hash bezel can also be nonetheless current, however the arms have began to evolve – we have got a set of Mercedes arms with a shorter hour hand and a shiny white seconds hand that was supposed to extend legibility.
With the 6536/1, Rolex additionally lastly moved away from the bubbleback calibers, as an alternative becoming the Submariner with slimmer actions. Curiously, the caliber 1030 that powers the 6536/1 dates again to 1950, the exact same 12 months because the A260 and A296, and will be present in quite a lot of Oyster Perpetual and Explorer fashions as properly, together with the well-known ref. 6610. It is a 2.5 Hz (18,00zero vph) motion that measures simply 5.85mm thick, permitting for a caseback that sat nearer to the case profile with out giving up the automated winding rotor.
Reference 6536/1 (Intermediate Model): 1957
The center model of the 6536/1 is extraordinarily just like the primary, however with two key variations: the bezel and the seconds hand. That is the primary time we see a Submariner with the well-known pink triangle on the zero/60 place, one thing we’ll go on to see in later fashions as properly. Moreover, the lume plot within the white seconds hand is a bit smaller this time round. Some individuals name the previous a “lollipop” seconds hand to distinguish, regardless of there nonetheless being a pointed tip on the finish of the bigger lume plot.
One factor to notice is that should you have a look at these first two 6536/1s facet by facet, you get a fantastic sense of simply how a lot variation there will be watch to look at relating to classic Submariners. The dials presumably began out principally the identical colours and finishes, however over the a long time they’ve pale otherwise and the printing begins to look totally different. On this case, each dials are precisely as they need to be, regardless of trying very, very totally different.
Reference 6536/1 (Ultimate Model): 1957-1958
The reference 6536/1 culminated within the watch you see right here, made simply two years after the primary 6536/1s rolled out to retailers. Once more, we’re speaking small variations right here from model two to model three. Most notably, the bezel has once more morphed, this time including the hash marks between the zero/60 place and the 15 minute mark. Additionally, for the watches with this later bezel, you may wish to make certain the watch has the correct handset: the white seconds hand is gone, in favor of 1 in brass that matches the opposite two arms (the lume plot is even smaller too, by the way).
Whereas this watch has a pink triangle within the bezel, there have been 6536/1s with hash bezels and no pink triangle too. You may see one which has lived a heck of a life in Jason Heaton’s report proper right here.
Reference 6538 (4 Line): 1956-1959
To additional complicate issues, on the similar time Rolex was producing the “small crown” reference. 6536, it was additionally producing the “large crown” reference 6538. For lots of people, that is the Rolex Submariner. It is the watch that Sean Connery famously wore as James Bond in Dr. No (1962) and it is received that beefy instrument watch really feel whereas nonetheless oozing classic appeal.
The 6538 got here in two fundamental flavors, these with 4 traces of textual content at six o’clock and people with two traces of textual content in that place. We’ll discuss in regards to the former first (which is the watch you see above). Along with the “Rolex / Oyster Perpetual” signature at 12 o’clock you may discover 4 traces studying “200m=660ft / Submariner / Formally Licensed / Chronometer” at six o’clock. That is the primary Submariner to characteristic the chronometer certification on the dial, and you may discover the complexity of the colour scheme on the gilt chapter ring dial – the mannequin branding is all in gold whereas the opposite textual content is in a white/silver colour.
The 8mm Brevet crown, no-hash bezel with pink triangle, and broader case all contribute to this watch’s critical wrist presence. In the event you’ve by no means had the chance to attempt one among these early, large crown Subs in your wrist, attempt to discover a collector or supplier with one who will allow you to give it a shot. It is a completely totally different really feel to the smaller Submariners or these with crown guards, but it surely’s additionally visually very totally different from the 6200 due to all the extra dial textual content. I bear in mind the primary time I ever noticed one among these within the metallic it whole blew my thoughts – it is easy to grasp why this grew to become such a basic.
Reference 6538 (Two Line): 1956-1959
Whereas four-line 6538s have been chronometer licensed, there have been additionally some watches of the very same reference that weren’t. On these non-certified watches, you may discover a simplified dial, with out the chronometer certification within the six o’clock place. The result’s a watch that has a barely extra open dial with some further respiratory room. The instance above has pale to an attractive darkish shade of tropical brown, whereas the instance under remains to be inky black – once more, these watches have been born similar however have turn out to be extraordinarily totally different of their 60+ years of life.
A superb rule of thumb: If there isn’t any chronometer certification on the dial itself, the watch is sort of actually not COSC-certified. However, as with all issues classic Rolex, there are some exceptions.
Whereas the dials of later 6538 examples are a bit extra open, the bezels received a bit of additional detailing within the type of the hash marks from the zero/60 place to 15. These even have the pink triangle at 12 o’clock, which we see intermittently all through the primary seven or eight years of the Submariner’s life.
Equally to its smaller cousin, the 6536, there are a number of totally different hand units which can be right for two-line 6538s. They’ll have both the slimmer white seconds had or the slim brass seconds hand – that is in distinction to the four-line 6538, which, in concept, ought to all the time have a big white seconds hand if it is in true unique situation.
Reference 5510 (The Final Huge Crown Reference): 1958
The reference 5510 represents the tip of an period. That is the final Submariner to make use of an 8mm large crown. As you’ll be able to see, it was produced concurrently with quite a lot of the references above, which is a part of why this period in Submariner historical past is so difficult. You actually have to take a look at previous commercials from the interval, approved supplier supplies, and so on. to see what was in market when and what it might have seemed like in new, unique situation.
In the event you’re this and saying “Wait, that appears identical to the final two-line 6538 you confirmed me up above!” you are not going loopy. The important thing traits – the large crown, the hash bezel with pink triangle, the smaller Mercedes hand set – are all the identical. After I requested a number of sellers and collectors find out how to distinguish the 2, they nearly unanimously stated “You simply look between the lugs for the engraved reference quantity.” Straightforward sufficient.
The 5510 was additionally the primary Submariner to make use of the considerably extra fashionable caliber 1530 motion. This was a motion first launched in 1957 and slowly applied all through the Rolex line-up. The motion itself advanced over its lifespan, so although it was utilized in 5510, 5508, and 5512 fashions for a while, it additionally modified all through its lifespan. When first applied it was a 17-jewel motion, although ultimately 24 and 25 jewel variations have been made too. Likewise, the form and measurement of the winding rotor and the coloured teflon gear coatings modified a bit too.
Reference 5508: 1958-1962
You are most likely sensing a pattern proper now. Whereas the 6538 had its small crown cousin the the 6536/1, the 5510 has its personal extra diminutive relation within the 5508. This watch has the slimmer 100m-water-resistant case and crown, whereas evolving the design language of the 6536/1. We’ve a extra constant, low-key Mercedes handset proper from the beginning and dials that exhibit distinctive stability by way of how the markers and typography are laid out.
Two issues did evolve although over the 5 years of 5508 manufacturing. The primary is the bezel, which transitioned from a pink triangle bezel to a silver triangle bezel (all the time with the hashes although). The second is the luminous materials used on the dials. Within the early 1960s, individuals began to turn out to be conscious of simply how harmful radium paint was for each watchmakers and clients, and in 1963 Rolex would absolutely transition over to tritium lume on all of its future watches (till artificial supplies grew to become accessible within the 1990s). However the 5508s produced within the early 1960s usually present a lighter colour of luminous compound that makes use of a decrease focus of radium. You may simply see the totally different within the two watches above, with the primary being an early instance and the second a really late one.
There’s another important level to make in regards to the 5508: It is the final Submariner made to characteristic a case with no crown guards on the fitting facet of the case. After 1962, all Submariners would characteristic the signature protectors on both facet of the crown, giving the watch a barely bulkier profile whereas making it a extra strong instrument. Keep in mind, we’re nonetheless very a lot within the heyday of dive watches being precise dive instruments, so designers have been much less nervous about how the watch would look behind the wheel of your 911 and way more involved about how it might carry out underwater.
Reference 5512 (Sq. Crown Guard): 1959
The introduction of the reference 5512 in 1959 marked the second that the Rolex Submariner grew to become kind of the watch we all know in the present day. The 5512 has the roughly 40mm large case, with its beveled lugs, crown guards, and barely bigger 7mm crown, the hashmarked dive bezel, the restrained dial with textual content at 12 and 6 o’clock, the 200m depth score, and the usual Mercedes arms. It is all there.
Nonetheless, the reference 5512 would find yourself being produced constantly for over 20 years, from 1959 via 1980, and there are dozens of variations (extra should you ask some collectors). Right here we will stroll via a lot of an important variations of the 5512, particularly people who embody structural modifications to the watch or have necessary historic tie-ins. What we’re not going to do is get into each variation of serifs within the Rolex font or begin giving humorous nicknames to totally different coronet logos. That is one other factor for an additional time.
This very first 5512 is one thing of a transitional watch, taking us from the no-crown-guards Subs via to the extra up to date crown-guards Subs. Like its predecessors it has an attractive gilt dial and a hashmark bezel with a pink triangle at 12 o’clock. After which there are these crown guards. These are in contrast to any that we’ll discover on later watches, with the ends completely squared off. Whenever you have a look at the watch in profile it is extraordinarily hanging and you’ll form of inform that Rolex was nonetheless working via precisely find out how to design these. Whereas they provide ample safety on this type, they make it a bit exhausting to entry the crown for setting the time.
Reference 5512 (Eagle Beak Crown Guards): 1959
Throughout this era, Rolex was continually iterating on its merchandise. Whereas this had the tip results of making the watches higher on a constant foundation, it makes tracing the historical past a bit difficult. After realizing that the sq. crown guards could possibly be refined, Rolex reshaped them to what collectors in the present day name “eagle beak” crown guards due to how they taper all the way down to their closing level. It is thought that these might need been made by shaving down circumstances with sq. crown guards, permitting Rolex to rapidly change what they have been doing with out requiring a complete new manufacturing course of.
Now, should you’re like me, you are most likely questioning if somebody may simply take a sq. crown guards 5512 in the present day and shave it all the way down to this form in the event that they wished to replicated the impact. The quick reply is sure, they most likely may. However, sq. crown guards are a lot rarer and extra useful, so there’s little incentive for anybody to be deceitful in that method. If it have been the reverse, we very properly might need an issue on our arms.
Reference 5512 (Pointed Crown Guards): 1959-1963
At this level, we’re nonetheless coping with basic, gilt dial 5512 Submariners. The crown guards proceed to vary although, and right here we’ve a “PCG” or “pointed crown guards” 5512. In the event you have a look at simply the crown guards, you may discover a straighter profile on these when in comparison with the eagle beak crown guards above. This form can’t be derived from the sq. formed guards, exhibiting us that Rolex retooled and was making new circumstances on this form from the beginning. After roughly 4 years of manufacturing, the gilt dial 5512 would find yourself with the rounded crown guards that almost all of Subs characteristic (and which you could see on the matte 5512s and gilt 5513s under).
A Observe About Relationship Submariners
One factor to find out about classic Rolex watches is that assigning them a “manufacturing date” is way more difficult than you would possibly assume. Till the mid-1970s, the insides of the casebacks have been stamped with a case manufacturing date the underside (observe the II.68″ on the backside of this watch’s caseback). This solely applies to the case although, so the time taken to assemble the watch, run chronometer checks, get it to a retailer, and so on. just isn’t accounted for in any respect.
After this numbering system stopped, serial quantity ranges turn out to be the most effective measure, although that’s an imprecise science and Rolex doesn’t verify dates on classic watches.
So subsequent time you are in search of that birth-year watch, know that you just’re capturing at one thing of a transferring goal.
(Picture: Courtesy HQ Milton)
There’s one other change right here too although – the extra of the “Superlative Chronometer / Formally Licensed” textual content to the underside of the dial. It was proper across the time that this watch was made that the reference 5513, which was Rolex’s non-chronometer Submariner, began rolling off the road. These further two traces of textual content have been the principle method that you would inform the 2 references other than each other going ahead. We’ll have much more on this under. Stick with me.
The actual instance you see right here additionally has what collectors name a “Swiss Exclamation Level” dial. In the event you look carefully on the very backside of the dial, proper the place the crystal begins to distort issues, you may discover a “Swiss” signature exterior the chapter ring and a round lume plot slightly below the oblong one, forming the “!” form. This was an idiosyncrasy of Rolex’s sport watch manufacturing right now and yow will discover exclamation level dials on the GMT-Masters and Explorers too.
To additional complicate issues, 5512s with pointed crown guards can characteristic one among two actions. The earliest variations (which featured bezels with pink triangles on the zero/60 place) used the caliber 1530, whereas the model you see right here launched the caliber 1560. First phased into choose references in 1959, the caliber 1560 was a 2.5 Hz (18,00zero vph), 26-jewel motion with some added KIF shock safety and a free-sprung hairspring. This might stay the Submariner caliber for the subsequent half-decade, taking us although the gilt dial period and into the start of the matte dial period.
So it may be a little bit of a tangent, however do you do not forget that time we confirmed you one among these unhealthy boys that had been discovered at a Philadelphia flea marketplace for $10? If not, verify that story out proper right here. It is bananas.
Reference 5512 (Matte Dial, Meters First): 1967-1969
This watch accommodates a number of milestones. First off, we have got one of many very first matte dial Submariners. It was round this time within the mid-1960s (circa 1967 by most accounts) that Rolex rolled its manufacturing over from the galvanic gilt dials which had shiny finishes and gold textual content to the so-called “matte” dials which had a softer matte black end and printed white textual content. For collectors in the present day, essentially the most fundamental taxonomy dividing Subs into two camps might be gilt vs. matte, although as you’ll be able to see right here that is a wild oversimplification.
In the event you have a look at the underside of the dial – the place you discovered the “Swiss” signature on the watch above – you may discover “Swiss – T<25" which signifies that the luminous materials is a) tritium and b) inside a suitable vary of radiation that makes it secure to put on. Mainly anytime you see a "T" someplace on a watch dial you'll be able to safely assume that it has to do with using tritium to be able to make the watch safer to put on. Taking a look at this a part of the dial, you may additionally discover that there is not any extra chapter ring linked to the hash marks for the minutes. This disappeared very late within the period of gilt dials and by the point Rolex moved to matte dials this was fully gone.
Shifting on from the dial, this watch reveals us the ultimate (or final-ish) form of the Submariner’s crown guards. They are a bit extra rounded than on earlier variations, being neither squared off or pointed on the ends. This makes it slightly simpler to control the crown whereas nonetheless providing safety from bumps. That is the case that the majority classic Submariner followers are most likely acquainted with and it was used for the majority of the Submariner’s manufacturing within the 1970s and ’80s.
You will wonderful the occasional gilt dial with out a chapter ring, however you should never see a matte dial with one.
We stated we would not get too into the trivialities of varied font and brand variations, since that is basically a bottomless pit, with collectors and sellers giving new nicknames to watches each day to be able to drum up curiosity or add worth. Nonetheless, that is what’s known as a “Neat Font” dial, and it is a second era dial for a matte, meters-first ref. 5512 Submariner. What differentiates it’s clear edges to the printing at each 12 and 6 o’clock, with the typography’s extra open fashion giving the impression of a crisper, much less hand-drawn really feel.
Beginning with the “neat font” 5512, we get one more new motion for the Submariner, the caliber 1570. Based mostly on the identical structure because the 1560, this motion upped the frequency to 2.75 Hz (19,800 vph) and refined a number of of the gear and rotor finishes. Come 1972, the caliber would get upgraded once more to have a hacking seconds mechanism, although the designation would stay 1570.
Reference 5512 (Matte Dial, Ft First): 1969-1980
The ultimate generations of 5512s displayed two substantial modifications from their predecessors – although substantial is, in fact, a relative time period right here. First off, the depth rankings on these dials are “toes first” versus “meters first.” That is precisely what it feels like, with the toes coming earlier than the meters within the depth score equation. This watch reads “660ft=200m” as an alternative of “200m=660ft” as we have seen on earlier watches. The precise capabilities of the watch did not change in any respect, that is merely an aesthetic change. There’s hypothesis that this might need to do with the U.S. turning into a extra necessary marketplace for Rolex, however, as with many issues associated to classic Rolex, that is simply conjecture.
That is additionally a model of what collectors name a “Maxi Dial,” which refers back to the enlarged lume plots for the hour markers. In the event you rapidly scroll backwards and forwards between this watch and the watch instantly above, you may spot it instantly. The objective right here was to make the watch much more legible. Technically, it is a mark iii maxi dial, as there have been a number of configurations, however there we go once more getting a bit too far into the weeds…
Reference 5513 (Pointed Crown Guards): 1962-1963
Okay, it is time for a pivot. Up to now, on the planet of Submariners with crown guards we have been centered completely on the reference 5512. That is, nevertheless, one other important reference for no-date Subs: the 5513. This watch was launched in 1962, simply three years after the 5512 made its debut, and the principle distinction between the 5513 and its predecessor is that it doesn’t comprise a motion licensed as a chronometer by COSC. Yep, it is a easy as that.
Consequently, the primary 5513 we’ve right here is extraordinarily comparable watch to the third 5512 featured above because it was made at roughly the identical time. The “Superlative Chronometer / Formally Licensed” textual content seen on the 5512 just isn’t right here, however in any other case it might be actually tough to inform these two watches aside side-by-side. Every thing from the circumstances to the bezels to the types of printing on the gilt dials is almost similar. Each even characteristic the “exclamation level” at six o’clock.
The early generations of 5513s use the caliber 1530, the identical caliber that you just’d discover within the non-chronometer 5512s. As a result of this motion wasn’t meant for chronometer certification, it made excellent sense for Rolex to roll it into the 5513 because it distinguished the 5512 by becoming it with COSC-certified calibers.
Reference 5513 (Explorer Dial): 1962-1965
This is without doubt one of the most collectable 5513s on the market, and it appears to be like in contrast to some other watch bearing that reference quantity. This 5513 has the so-called Explorer dial with the Three-6-9 subbing in for the oblong lume plots at these hours. There are additionally slim luminous batons on the different hours (as an alternative of dots) and the dial textual content is all shriveled a bit to offer the luminous numerals room to breathe.
These Explorer dial 5513s are the final era of Explorer dial Submariners, and so they look considerably totally different when in comparison with the sooner Explorer dial ref. 6200 and ref. 6538 fashions. Take into account, we’re speaking about simply over a decade between the earliest 6200 and the final Explorer dial 5513, which actually drives house how rapidly the Submariner was evolving throughout this era. Immediately we consider it as a strong archetype, but it surely was nonetheless extraordinarily malleable again within the ’50s and ’60s.
There have been additionally Explorer dial 5512s produced across the similar time as these watches, and, curiously, most appeared to have been made for the UK market. It is unclear why that market would have acquired almost all of those watches, however such is the unusual historical past of those uncommon items.
Reference 5513 (Underline): 1963-1964
This 5513 has a particular model of a gilt dial with an “underline” printed slightly below the depth score and “Submariner” signature at six o’clock. These underline dials will be discovered throughout the Rolex sport watch vary, and signify a transitional interval within the firm’s historical past.
Whereas Rolex has by no means outright confirmed this, the underline marking is known to indicate that the dial featured tritium lume with a decrease stage of radiation than can be discovered on the radium dials that had been used up thus far. The thought is that some dials have been already printed, however not lumed, so Rolex determined so as to add the underline to current items to notice that they have been totally different. Contemplating that each one underline dials date to roughly 1962-64, the info do line up right here, and consultants I’ve spoken to verify that these watches do characteristic decrease radiation ranges than their predecessors. Exterior of this, the watch is only a lovely gilt 5513 via and thru.
Reference 5513 (Double Swiss Underline): 1963
As if issues weren’t difficult sufficient, there’s one other variation of the underline 5513 that you’ll want to know: the “double Swiss” underline 5513. The very first thing you may discover is that the underline itself is in a unique place right here – it sits quietly beneath the Rolex signature at 12 o’clock as an alternative of down at six. This watch nonetheless has a case with pointed crown guards, by the way in which, although it is among the many final 5513 to characteristic them.
Extra importantly although, there are two “Swiss” signatures on the very backside of the dial, one gilt that sits consistent with the open chapter ring and one white slightly below. This further signature on the backside could be very uncommon and takes this watch to the subsequent stage. The “Double Swiss” designation is not distinctive to the Submariner although – take a look at Ben’s report on the Double Swiss Underline Daytona proper right here for extra.
Reference 5513 (Gilt Dial, Open Chapter Ring): 1964-1966
Now what occurs if there aren’t any further “Swiss” signatures, no hidden underline, and no exclamation factors? You get this watch. It is a later era gilt dial 5513, which is indicated by the open chapter ring across the outer perimeter (what makes it “open” is that the gilt hash marks aren’t linked by a strong ring on the surface edge).
It is humorous that we have gotten to some extent in classic Rolex amassing that we contemplate this a “regular” or “customary” watch, contemplating that such examples have been solely made for a number of years and that the majority have been worn exhausting and with out a trace of preciousness. Do not let some collectors’ blasé attitudes get you jaded although – discovering a gilt 5513 in excellent situation, with a clear dial, a properly pale bezel, and a pointy case isn’t any simple job. That is one significantly good watch proper right here.
Do not be afraid to look issues up should you’re uncertain. There are such a lot of dial variations for the Submariner that you just’d be a idiot to assume you would know all of them by coronary heart.
Someday towards the tip of the gilt-dial period, the 5513 transitioned to a brand new motion, the caliber 1520. It is a form of unusual motion, particularly while you put it side-by-side with the caliber 1530, which was by many accounts a superior motion. The 1520 ran at a barely greater frequency of two.75 Hz (19,800 vph), however used a lower-cost regulator and stability spring, so with a little bit of innovation got here a little bit of cost-savings. It was by no means meant to be COSC-certified, thus making it match for the 5513.
Reference 5513 (Bart Simpson): 1966
Alright, to shut out the gilt dial 5513s we figured it was value having slightly enjoyable. Within the land of trivialities, one of many issues collectors and sellers most wish to seize upon is the form of the Rolex coronet. For an organization brand, it positive did change and fluctuate so much over the center a part of the 20th century. The fundamentals have been all the time the identical – a five-pointed crown with an open backside and a serif font for the signature – however typically it was shorter, different occasions it was taller; typically it was wider, different occasions it was thinner; and typically the factors of the crown have been nearer collectively, different occasions they have been additional aside.
The variation we’ve right here has been nicknamed the “Bart Simpson” as a result of the coronet is believed to appear like the well-known animated character. The deep yellow colour of the coronet (because of the galvanic technique of the gilt dials) amplifies the impact.
One facet observe right here: there are Bart Simpson 5512s too, although they are much rarer than the 5513 model.
Reference 5513 (Matte Dial, Meters First): 1967-1969
That is one other second the place we see the 5512 and 5513 change in tandem. As Rolex phased out the normal gilt dials, each Submariner references moved over having matte dials with white printing as an alternative. Just like the 5512, the 5513 would ultimately transition over to a “toes first” depth score, however that is an earlier mannequin that also has the metric models first.
Whereas plenty of the watches we have proven right here have substantial patina, with pale bezels and dials, the watch right here is mainly a time capsule. The wealthy black colour of the matte dial, the wealthy custardy hue of the lume, and the shiny black of the aluminum bezel insert are all intact. That is fairly near what this watch would have seemed like proper out of the field within the late 1960s.
Reference 5513 (MilSub): 1972-1976
This watch sits proper up there with the Explorer dial variant as one of the vital collectable 5513s on the market in the present day. There are three fundamental variants of the MilSub, the 5513 you see right here, later 5513/5517 double-references, and in addition 5517 single references (these final two references solely exists as MilSubs, not as common Submariners). The watch we’ve right here can also be what we would name a “full-spec” MilSub, because it’s retained all the important thing variations that outline this watch towards a typical 5513. In lots of circumstances, watches have been modified after being decommissioned and are not fairly what they was once. What you need although is a chunk like this.
Now about these distinguishing options. What you are in search of is the next: the particular bezel, graduated in one-minute increments all the way in which round (a bezel that by no means appeared on any civilian Submariner), the sword-shaped arms, the circle-T brand at six o’clock to notice that the watch makes use of secure tritium lume as an alternative of radium, and glued bars between the lugs (not detachable spring bars). If any of these issues have been altered, you would possibly nonetheless be a real MilSub, however one which’s misplaced a little bit of what makes it so particular.
With all classic watches, having correct documentation will invariably improve a chunk’s worth. However with army watches, paperwork and documentation is much more necessary than traditional. The potential revenue to be made by doctoring up a typical 5513 and faking a MilSub is substantial, and there are individuals on the market making an attempt to do it with some regularity. So should you’re trying to purchase one for your self, going via a trusted supply and in search of one with a correct paper path is crucial.
MilSubs are a rabbit gap all their very own, and you’ll study a bit extra in regards to the very earliest variations proper right here should you’re . (Spoiler alert: You ought to be .)
Reference 5513 (Matte Dial, Ft First): 1969-1982
Because the tales of the 5512 and 5513 weave out and in from each other, that is their final level of contact. Made for over a decade, there are dozens of variations inside this one household of watches alone. The watch you see right here is almost similar to the final 5512 proven above, with a matte dial and a feet-first depth score. The lume plots are the bigger “maxi” measurement and we have reached an period the place the tritium lume usually ages to a lighter pale yellow colour as an alternative of a darkish orange and beige tone. That is basically the final era of the true classic no-date Submariner.
Reference 5513 (Final Era): 1982-1989
That is the youngest watch that you will see on this story. Relationship to approximate 1988, it is one of many final 5513s made earlier than the reference was retired after its 27 years in steady manufacturing (indicated by its serial quantity starting with “L”). You will discover instantly that the watch could be very totally different from these we have checked out to this point. It’s because it sits midway between a real classic Submariner and the five-digit references that Rolex would begin making round 1990. That is the “lacking hyperlink,” if you’ll, between the Submariners of yesteryear and those which you could nonetheless purchase in the present day (should you’re fortunate sufficient to search out one, that’s).
Crucial traits launched with these late collection 5513s are the shiny black dial and the white gold surrounds that encapsulate every of the tritium hour markers. You will additionally discover quite a lot of modifications to the fonts on the dial, the detailing of the bezels, and extra. Nonetheless, by way of case, profile, and motion, that is each bit as a lot a 5513 as the sooner watches.
Reference 1680 (Pink Sub): 1969-1975
Behold! The Submariner with a date! It may appear exhausting to imagine in the present day, but it surely took 16 years earlier than the very first Submariner rolled out of Rolex with a date complication at three o’clock. It is value noting that the earliest Sea-Dwellers, which featured a date from the start, got here out two years earlier too. It did nevertheless use the identical caliber as these early Sea-Dwellers, the caliber 1575. (For extra on the Sea-Dweller, make sure to take a look at Reference Factors: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller.)
The Bizarre And The Wild
Not all Submariners are born equal – that a lot we all know. Nonetheless, what I did not anticipate in early 2017 was for this insane creation to return throughout my desk: a white gold prototype Submariner with a blue dial, a bark-finish bracelet, and an solely partially knurled bezel. It seemed just like the stuff of dive watch nightmares. Nonetheless, it went on to set an public sale file, pulling over $625,00zero at Christie’s in Could 2017.
Try the complete story right here.
When including the date, this time with the magnifying Cyclops excessive, Rolex gave the Submariner a completely new reference within the 1680. The earliest iterations of the 1680 characteristic pink “Submariner” textual content within the four-line signature at six o’clock, giving the watch its frequent nickname: The Pink Sub.
For a time period within the mid-2000s, the Pink Sub was the entry level into amassing particular classic Rolex watches – it was the watch that you just’d step as much as after having owned a extra fundamental matte dial sport watch or a Datejust. It was additionally one of many few Submariners with a date that drew as a lot consideration because the no-date fashions. Now, as amassing has gotten extra refined, there are plenty of choices right here, particularly when you get into gilt dial watches, however there is not any query that the Pink Sub remains to be one of the vital basic Submariners of all time.
What lots of people do not realize is that whereas the Pink Sub is actually rarer than plenty of different Submariners, it is not a kind of “one 12 months solely” form of references. The truth is, the watch was constructed from 1969 till 1973 and went via a number of iterations or “Marks” throughout that point. Relying on who you discuss to, there are seven or eight distinct variations of the Pink Sub (some individuals collapse the Mark II and Mark III into one), and you may even discover that the 2 examples we’ve listed below are noticeably totally different, with the previous exhibiting meters first within the depth score the latter exhibiting toes first.
For the date Submariner, Rolex clearly wanted a brand new motion with the extra complication. They opted to make use of the caliber 1575, a model of which was additionally getting used to energy GMT-Masters and Datejusts (and had been since its introduction in 1965). From the start the motion ran at 2.75 Hz (19,800 vph) and had an immediately leaping calendar wheel, however in 1972 the motion would get an improve within the type of hacking seconds, letting you set the watch extra exactly. These actions rolled out slowly to numerous fashions, but when your 1680 hacks, you recognize it needed to come after this date.
Reference 1680 (18ok Yellow Gold): 1969-1979
Strong. Gold. Submariner. You needed to know this was coming, proper? I imply, how a lot cooler does it get? In 1969, Rolex (lastly?) added a strong gold model of its basic instrument watch to the catalog. For some individuals, this meant the demise of the Submariner as a real sport watch; for different individuals, this was the Submariner’s ascendance into being a real luxurious watch. Personally, I see it each methods, however I select to rejoice the pure awesomeness that could be a strong gold Sub as an alternative of standing on precept and complaining about. Plus, let’s be sincere, Rolex does not care about what I say on the matter anyway.
The strong gold 1680 we’ve right here is similar form and dimensions as its metal cousin, all the way down to the Oyster bracelet, simply rendered in 18ok yellow gold. The bezel appears to be like acquainted too, although the numerals and markings are in a matte gold colour as an alternative of silver, to coordinate higher with the case. Likewise, the date disc can also be a champagne colour, which prevents it from trying jarring towards all that gold. The largest distinction is the dial, which collectors name a “nipple dial” due to the raised hour markers with luminous facilities. I do not assume I’ve to clarify that any additional, do I?
The model you see right here additionally has a meters-first dial, which is extraordinarily uncommon, solely produced for the primary 12 months or two of the reference. After that, you may solely see way more frequent feet-first examples.
Reference 1680 (18ok Yellow Gold, Blue Dial): 1971-1979
The strong gold Submariner was successful and Rolex continued to evolve the mannequin through the years (it is nonetheless a part of the gathering in the present day, by the way in which). One of many first main variants was the one you see right here, with its distinctive shiny blue dial and bezel. Now, over time, plenty of these dials and bezels pale to numerous shades of blue and purple, however this one remains to be trying wealthy and saturated prefer it was when new. Preferences fluctuate right here, however I like while you get a punch of colour like this.
One other factor to notice right here is the President bracelet mounted on this watch. No, this was not a later addition, swapped in from a Day-Date. Again then, should you wished the watch on this bracelet your retailer may particular order it for you – you may discover that the tip hyperlinks match up correctly and every part right here, so there is not any humorous enterprise in any respect. A lot of the gold Submariners (in addition to gold GMT-Masters) discovered on these bracelets will be traced again to Mexico.
Reference 1680 (COMEX): Mid-1970s
What the MilSub and Explorer dial are to the no-date Sub, the COMEX dial is to the date Sub. That is the most important and baddest of all of the date Submariners, these watches have been made for the French Compagnie maritime d’expertises (COMEX for brief), which specialised in underwater engineering. Their staff wanted watches for lengthy stints working underwater and dwelling in submerged habitats, and Rolex was completely happy to oblige.
These watches characteristic the COMEX brand on the dial, simply above the depth score and “Submariner” signature at six o’clock, filling up the underside portion of the dial. There are additionally deep COMEX engravings on the backs of the watches, which will be one among two sizes. What you see right here is the “large numbers” COMEX, which is a bit rarer and tends to be extra fascinating (in a humorous little bit of distinction to the emblem printing on the ref. 6200, should you’ll bear in mind).
There’s an necessary facet observe right here: not all COMEX Submariners are 1680s. There are two different forms of classic COMEX Submariners that fall beneath the references 5513 and 5514, the latter being a particular reference reserved completely for COMEX-issued watches. The 2 watches are technically similar, and a few characteristic COMEX logos on the dials whereas different are seemingly regular. What units these items aside although are the helium escape valves (like what you’d see on a Sea-Dweller) on the left flank of the case. This makes these watches a form of hybrid between Rolex’s two best-known dive watches. What you see above is a COMEX 5513 – observe the small HEV within the backside left nook of the picture.
Reference 1680 (Matte Dial With White Submariner): 1976-1979
When you get previous the early examples with the pink textual content, the strong gold variations, and the COMEX watches, the 1680 is without doubt one of the easier Submariner references to grasp. Because it was by no means produced throughout the period of gilt dials, altering lume, and fast iterations on branding and logos, there are far fewer variations than you see with one thing just like the 5512 or 5513.
That is what a typical, matte dial 1680 with out the pink “Submariner” appears to be like like. You have received a packed four-line signature at six o’clock and the date sitting beneath the Cyclops at three o’clock. One variation you may discover within the date is that earlier date wheels characteristic sixes and nines which can be “open” – that means the characters appear like they have been drawn with one stroke and there is a separation the place the round half meets the straight half – and later date wheels characteristic sixes and nines which can be “closed.” In any other case, a fundamental matte 1680 is just about a fundamental matte 1680.
Amassing The Submariner
We have now proven you almost three dozen Submariners, and, to be sincere, this is not even near every part. These are essentially the most important contact factors for understanding how the Submariner advanced, its key options, and what collectors care about in the present day. As talked about earlier, there are really numerous dial variants, nicknamed sub-references, and strange historic facet notes. That is, within the truest sense, a bottomless pit.
Nonetheless, all of the watches we have proven you above break down into roughly 4 classes: these with out crown guards, these with gilt dials, these with matte dials, and people with army provenance. We thought it might be fascinating to interview consultants in every discipline, inviting them to shed some further gentle on what try to be in search of while you’re buying to your subsequent Sub.
I requested every skilled to reply three questions:
1) For every sort of Submariner, what’s the most under-appreciated facet that collectors want to concentrate to?
2) What is the largest mistake individuals make when such a Submariner?
Three) What’s your holy grail inside this class of Subs?
Let’s take a look at the solutions:
No Crown Guards – Geoff Hess, Watch Advisor at Phillips in Affiliation with Bacs & Russo
1) With respect to Submariners with out crown guards, the one under-appreciated facet that collectors ought to search for is “clear”…pun truly meant…and that’s gloss. Huge crown and small crown Subs from the 1950s have been made with radium dials, and their corrosive nature usually ate away on the unique gloss end of the floor of the watch’s dial. Consequently, the specialness of discovering a 1950s no crown guard Sub with some measure of unique glossiness on the dial nonetheless intact shouldn’t be neglected.
2) One vital error is unknowingly shopping for a no crown guards Sub with a later service dial, made with primarily tritium and missing corrosive radium. Consequently, they usually look like in deceivingly superior situation. You assume you are getting one factor, however you are truly getting one thing else fully.
Three) The 6538 Explorer dial with pink depth score is the large crown with the rarest dial configuration and is an final treasure most collectors won’t ever personal. We extra sometimes see it on 1960s gilt 5513 Subs, so when it seems with further pink depth studying on an early 6538 large crown, the long-lasting James Bond Submariner, you’ve gotten the proper storm of rarity of case and dial design. Only a few are identified to exist and in consequence it’s an final treasure most collectors won’t ever personal. Produced in 1956, for my part it represents the holy grail of no crown guard Subs.
Gilt Dials – Eric Wind, Founding father of Wind Classic
1) Gilt 5512 and 5513 Submariners aren’t uncommon by any stretch, however they’re uncommon to search out in nice situation. Many who I’ve dealt with from unique house owners and unique households have seen plenty of motion of their 50+ years of life, with it being frequent to see substitute arms and bezel inserts from Rolex given their nature as instrument watches. It is usually frequent to see these gilt dials re-lumed. I study the situation of the gilt dials first, given how delicate the lacquer is to wreck, then the situation of the case, which I desire to have the unique proportions and chamfered edges if doable.
2) I usually see new collectors shopping for gilt 5512 and 5513 Submariners which can be in poor situation (typically with disclosed or undisclosed restoration) for what they see as a worth buy, after they can be higher off shopping for a wonderful instance of a matte dial 5512 or 5513 for the same quantity. The a number of in worth between a poor situation mannequin and distinctive mannequin is extraordinarily excessive for Submariners, and solely rising with time.
Three) I like Submariners with the Three-6-9 Explorer dials and significantly just like the reference 5512 model with the small-hash minute observe and exclamation level dial. The minute markers on this model are nearly like dots and the lacquer appears to remain preserved very properly on these. The primary one among these I ever held was one we bought at Christie’s in Geneva whereas I labored there. It was consigned by the unique proprietor who purchased the watch new in 1962 in Knightsbridge and wore it throughout his service as a police officer in London. That watch is now within the assortment of a distinguished Rolex collector in Hong Kong.
Matte Dials – John Discipline, Jr., Proprietor of 5513mattedial.com
1) Whereas gilt/gloss dials many occasions undergo from crazing, spidering, peeling, and hand drags, the matte dials are in contrast very properly preserved for essentially the most half. Nonetheless, the one space the place these dials are susceptible to wreck is the place the sting of the dial and bigger minute markers meet the mid case. Throughout a service, because the dial and motion are positioned within the case and rotated into place, it is not unusual for the bigger minute markers to interrupt or chip. Consequently, it is not unusual to see some Submariners, particularly the earliest 1680s to have three or 4 damaged minute markers. Maintain an eye fixed out for this.
2) With few exceptions, collectors need their watches to be all unique or a minimum of interval right. So, it is necessary to make it possible for the dial within the watch is per the serial quantity between the lugs and the 12 months the watch was made. This would possibly look like frequent sense; nevertheless, there are 9 totally different 5513 matte dials produced between 1966 and 1984, and since the identical 1520 motion was used, it is not unusual to discover a dial from the late 70s having changed the unique dial from a watch from the mid ’60s. Be sure every part checks out earlier than shopping for.
Three) Whereas the gilt/gloss Rolex Submariners produced previous to 1965/66 have garnered the highlight for a few years, a few of the later produced matte dial variations have reached grail standing as properly. The 1680 started its life as a matte dial Submariner, separating itself from its 5512 brother with the addition of a date operate. An unmolested Mark I, meters-first Pink Sub from the primary 12 months of manufacturing would definitely qualify as a grail matte dial Submariner given the aforementioned parameters, as would an 18ok 1680/eight with a meters-first dial.
Navy – Mike Wooden, UK-Based mostly Collector
1) With lower than 1,200 British army Submariners issued, there are few options. The exception can be non-public buy watches: Submariners purchased be serving army personnel on the NAAFI (Commissary) for their very own use. Though the British M.O.D. (Ministry of Defence) by no means issued Tudor Submariners, it’s doable to search out each Tudor and Rolex Submariners, purchased by troopers and sailors who engraved their army particulars on the watches, and wore them via their interval of service. A “non-public buy” Submariner, with an fascinating provenance, could be a very rewarding discover!
2) The entry-level British MilSub is prone to be a “low-spec” 5513: a watch that has misplaced its sword arms (and is fitted with Mercedes arms), has been fitted with a 15-minute-marker bezel, maybe has had a bracelet fitted, has had the case again crossed with one other watch or the army engravings polished off. Costs for one thing like this can be beneath $20,00zero. However shopping for this watch with a view to upgrading it’s false economic system: real Rolex sword arms are value $30,00zero+, a 60-minute-marker bezel $30,00zero+; and most – if not all – of those “add-ons” on the market out there now are pretend or after-market.
Three) There are a number of reference of MilSubs, together with the A/6538 (1950s), a small variety of 5512s (late 1950s-early 1960s), a number of batches of 5513s, “double reference” 5513/5517s, and 5517s (all 1970s). For me, a full-spec 5517 (for Military “W-10” or Royal Navy “0552” difficulty, signified by the case again engravings) is the holy grail of army Submariners. It’s a distinctive reference Rolex reserved completely for British army difficulty watches (just like the COMEX 5514), with round 150 watches produced in whole.
Editor’s Observe: I would like to supply an enormous thanks to Eric Wind, with out whom this story wouldn’t have been doable. We might additionally wish to thank Paul Altieri, Jeffrey Binstock, Jack Feldman, Adam Golden, Erwin Grose, Norman Harris, Geoff Hess, Jay Liu, David Marcinek, Stephen Moore, Grady Seale, Lavi Rudnick, Leon Shoykhetbrod, Jon Yu, and an nameless collector who goes by @watch.me_watch.you on Instagram all for lending us their treasured watches. Eric Wind additionally needs to thank Glenn Mariconda for his glorious scholarship on the 6204 and 6205 fashions specifically. In the event you had any doubts about how nice the Rolex amassing neighborhood will be, this could clear them proper up!
