Catorex is one other of these previous names in Swiss watchmaking that you simply’ve in all probability not heard of till now. The manufacture continues to be operated at present by the Cattin household, which has managed the corporate for six generations, beginning in 1858. My understanding is that, for many of the model’s life, it was primarily a provider to different corporations, producing watches for third events versus watches with the Catorex identify on it. Extra lately with economics and supply-chain shifts in Switzerland, the corporate has launched into the journey of constructing its personal Swiss Made watches, now with an bold direct-to-consumer gross sales mannequin.
As we speak, I take a look at the Catorex Krono Traditional 42 Smoked Purple Metal watch that, along with this reference 8169-276-SB, is available in a bunch of dial colours. Krono Traditional 42 can also be accessible on numerous leather-based straps along with this matching three-link metal metallic bracelet. In most respects, it is a first rate watch at a quite truthful worth. Its story, nevertheless, displays among the vital challenges Catorex and related manufacturers have when making an attempt to attraction to at present’s choosy and over-messaged watch shoppers. The troublesome query Catorex (and colleague manufacturers even in Switzerland) has to reply is, “Why does my model exist, what goal do the watches serve, and who is supposed to put on them?”
Browse the Catorex web site, which is important to get its watches, for the reason that model’s objective is to promote on to shoppers — and also you’ll be greeted with numerous ambiguously designed “traditional” watches. By ambiguous, I imply that the designs, in some situations, are generic or in any other case don’t look as if Catorex dreamed them up. As an historic provider whose job it was to provide watches for others, that is really quite comprehensible. Catorex is making watches it believes the general public desires as a perform of taking a look at what it has been producing for purchasers up to now. Just a few a long time in the past, this was a successful mannequin, however in at present’s world, it’s much less so.
Why? Effectively, frankly, as a result of the world has too many timepieces today and shoppers want causes above and past “it is a good watch” to get enthusiastic about any specific product. watch is in excessive demand on the after-sales market, that it has an authentic design, that it has some enjoyable story related to it, that some well-known particular person famously wore it… these are among the extra widespread causes, above and past a watch being a superb watch, that helps stimulate purchases. Catorex is a type of manufacturers that provides a superb product to a public undecided what to do with it.
Little of that’s Catorex’s fault. It’s making an attempt to do its finest in a rapidly altering wristwatch market the place conventional producers are being requested to do issues that traditionally don’t have a lot expertise with. Keep in mind, most watch factories (even in Switzerland) merely produced the watches that corporations ordered from them. They didn’t have to invent them, market them, or distribute them. As we speak, manufacturers that make watches must do all the above, and its an enormous pressure on their tradition and sources to do all of these issues. I’ve all the time advisable to manufacturers that may afford to take action to have a separate staff to deal with design, advertising/promoting, and gross sales along with the watch manufacturing staff.
That leaves Catorex as a model that can attraction probably the most to assured watch collectors who’re eager to strive on the designs that Catorex produces at actually affordable costs. These shoppers might be model agnostics and largely taken with having a top quality watch, with a selected design, at a very accessible worth level. Certainly, I do know that “Catorex” as a reputation doesn’t sound like what most individuals consider as a elaborate watch model. However doesn’t it sound very highly effective as some type of industrial cleaner or medical answer? Realistically, not all shoppers will take into consideration the model identify on this approach. Watch followers within the West with extra familiarity with English may take pause, however those that doesn’t communicate English as properly will in all probability not thoughts. This really opens up the likelihood that Catorex might use its abilities and make a separate model below a brand new identify for various audiences.
Let’s now take a look at the Catorex Krono Traditional 42 Smoked Purple Metal watch I’m reviewing on this article. The primary problem, for those who like this watch, is which to decide on. Catorex seemingly produces over a dozen dial variants within the Krono Traditional 42 assortment, some with barely totally different designs and palms. That is along with the assorted strap/bracelet mixtures — and most of them are priced within the modest 1,100 Swiss Franc worth neighborhood.
This smoked crimson dial mannequin is quite good general, however I’ve two complaints. First is the truth that the polished metal palms could be troublesome to learn towards the dial. Different variations of the Krono Traditional 42 watch have painted palms, which I believe must translated into higher legibility. As a traditional/sporty-style watch, it is a good mixture, however different fashions Catorex makes are more likely to be extra legible. Sooner or later, Catorex might simply repair this downside and make this dial for the Krono Traditional 42 higher by merely changing the handset.
My second situation is with proportions — not dial proportions however case proportions. This can be a problem for a lot of watches and it has to do with the truth that the bezel, crown, and pushers appears to be outsized compared to different dial parts. Functionally, they make sense given that a larger crown and bigger pushers are predictably simpler to function. That stated, as wristwatches are purposeful artwork, an adherence to conventional guidelines of symmetry, steadiness, and proportions is vital.
If I had so as to add a 3rd quip, it might be with numerous parts of the bracelet. First, the bracelet doesn’t fairly completely match between the lugs. I wouldn’t name it unfastened, however I do want narrower tolerances. The bracelet itself is first rate wanting with a conventional three-link design and a refined heart hyperlink a la the Rolex GMT-Grasp II. Although snug sufficient, the bracelet feels a bit “final technology.” We at present reside in an period during which wristwatch bracelets are coming again into vogue much more, and I merely suppose that client expectations are very excessive. That stated, I all the time must be aware of the very aggressive worth level Catorex is asking for the Krono Traditional 42 watches, which dampens the load of my criticism, given the general excessive value-proposition Catorex is providing right here.
On the watch identify implies, the Krono Traditional case is 42mm-wide in polished metal and water-resistant to an admirable 100 meters. The case is a wearable 49mm from lug to lug, however the case is on the thicker facet at about 15mm. The AR-coating on the flat sapphire crystal over the dial is excellent, and glare is hardly a difficulty right here. One distinctive design function of this in any other case generic-looking case and bracelet (and dial) is the crown, which I consider is a signature Catorex function. I name it the “upside-down Christmas tree.”
Returning to the dial of the Krono Traditional 42, it’s meant to seem like a 1940s-era sports activities watch with each a tachymeter and a telemeter. Nobody sporting this watch will ever use these scales, as they’re there for present. In case you are curious as to what they do, when utilized in mixture with the chronograph seconds hand and a bit of third-party reference knowledge, the scales are used to measure pace and distance, respectively.
Catorex’s emulation of this traditional dial fashion is properly completed and proportionate general, however the hand legibility situation talked about above. Numerous shoppers demand the date, so I perceive why Catorex designed to incorporate it on the dial, but it surely does type of really feel like a frameless gap reduce into the dial, and the Krono Traditional 42 may look higher with out it. It isn’t just like the analog watches from the 1940s had a date window…
Contained in the Krono Traditional 42 is a Swiss-made ETA Valjoux 7750 computerized chronograph motion (4Hz operational frequency with an influence reserve of 42 hours). That is in all probability probably the most inexpensive methods to get a 7750, and the excellent news is that it isn’t even the bottom grade 7750 accessible. Geared up with a customized Catorex computerized rotor and sporting some first rate polished surfaces and blue-colored screws, the 7750 motion within the Krono Traditional 42 gives one of many fashions’ most welcome views.
Catorex has some areas to enhance the Krono Traditional 42 assortment, however typically it is a lot of look ahead to the cash. These simply beginning out a watch assortment and taken with getting a classic-looking Swiss-made chronograph might go far more incorrect, for far more cash. Catorex gives a wholesome number of kinds for numerous tastes, and the enticing pricing will probably permit for lots of newer timepiece fanatics to noticeably contemplate this or one other Catorex product for his or her assortment. Value for the Catorex Krono Traditional 42 Smoked Purple Metal reference 8169-27-SB is 1,094.31 Swiss Francs. Study extra on the Catorex web site right here.
Essential Information
>Model: Catorex
>Mannequin: Krono Traditional 42 Smoked Purple Metal (reference 8169-27-SB)
>Value: 1,094.31 Swiss Francs as configured
>Dimension: 42mm-wide, ~15mm-thick, and ~46mm lug-to-lug distance.
>When reviewer would personally put on it: When a crimson dial and a traditional chronograph dial fashion are so as.
>Buddy we’d suggest it to first: Much less skilled watch collectors getting into Swiss mechanical watches looking for to experiment with a preferred design and searching for a superb worth.
>Finest attribute of watch: Value may be very truthful for what you get, given the largely first rate parts and mechanical motion. Dial colour is enticing, although the palms want work.
>Worst attribute of watch: This specific dial execution has legibility points, given the polished metal palms. Crown and pushers are proportionally outsized for the case. Some match points for the bracelet, which itself feels a bit too “traditional,” given among the more moderen developments in watch bracelets and the ensuing client expectations.
