If you might be on the lookout for one thing “Grand Seiko high quality” from Japan’s Citizen, then look no additional than the very spectacular Citizen Caliber 0100 — which additionally occurs to incorporate the world’s most correct self-contained timepiece motion. I’ll get again to that in a second. It truly makes me fairly blissful that the Citizen Caliber 0100 watch (right here because the reference AQ6021-51E) is gorgeous sufficient on the skin to get copious compliments from those that don’t know what it comprises on the within. Elegant and well-proportioned, amongst its different virtues, the Caliber 0100 is a glowing instance of Japanese dress-style watch excellence and humility. The timepiece suits so nicely according to values from the tradition that created it, one would possibly argue that Citizen’s objective with the Caliber 0100 was to honor Japanese engineering generally.
It has been my expertise that the Japanese manufacturing mindset values precision, effectivity, efficiency, and sturdiness, above all else. These values appear to be at play when understanding every side of the Calibre 0100, from its visible design to its strengthened titanium case and bracelet. The Calibre 0100 started its public life merely as a motion in a not-to-be-sold pocket watch case in 2018. A yr later, in 2019, Citizen lastly unveiled the Caliber 0100 (aBlogtoWatch hands-on right here). In 2018, Citizen solely wished to concentrate on the motion expertise, because it was a serious innovation providing accuracy of inside one second per yr. Evaluate that with the very best Rolex watch cash can purchase, which has an marketed accuracy of inside two seconds per day (extremely spectacular when put next with different mechanical watches). Most watches don’t even record the estimated accuracy of their actions — that’s how little many timepiece makers truly worth accuracy as of late. Accuracy, thoughts you, isn’t a easy matter to attain, however let’s get again to speaking in regards to the motion later. For now, I’d prefer to hold speaking in regards to the greater image of the Caliber 0100 as a wristwatch and never only a motion.
Citizen, for all its cautious preparation making a body to deal with this stunning motion, additionally appeared to overlook giving that body (the watch) a reputation. That is the Caliber 0100 watch that comprises the Caliber 0100 (cal.0100) motion. That’s going to make discussing these every individually a bit complicated for many individuals. “Reference AQ6021-51E” additionally doesn’t precisely roll off the tongue. As it is a totally Japanese watch, I’d actually prefer to see it subsequent time with an equally Japanese identify.
The timepiece itself is charming and so very good to take a look at, with modest, smart dimensions at simply 38mm-wide (it’s truly nearer to 37.5mm). That’s about as small as I’ll go as somebody who prefers brief sleeves. It will be correct to say that the Caliber 0100 appears made to be worn with sleeves. Having stated that, the dial, which by no means shies away from mild (even because it collects it), is eye-catching sufficient to be worn with brief sleeves and a few reasonably informal apparel. Most severe Japanese watches are typically about this width and positively formal in fashion, so the design route suits in with what you’d count on from any specific Citizen timepiece that has been crafted with unimaginable pleasure.
The case is barely about 9mm-thick (regardless of the deep dial) with a roughly 44mm lug-to-lug distance. Additionally it is waterproof to 50 meters and is topped with a flippantly domed sapphire crystal. I wish to cease right here and praise Citizen on ensuring the sapphire crystal was ideally made with the correct amount of anti-reflective coating in order to supply no glare. If anybody ever desires to understand how a domed sapphire crystal is completed correctly, merely seek the advice of the Citizen Caliber 0100.
Most individuals are shocked by the Caliber 0100’s unimaginable sense of lightness, even on the bracelet. The watch is made completely of grade 5 titanium, however that on the case itself has been polished like metal. Which means a wholly polished bezel, which is remarkably laborious to do in titanium. Even when you might polish titanium like that, most corporations don’t. Why? As a result of little else (than, say, platinum) picks up scratches like polished titanium. I’m not anxious as a result of, once more, it is a Japanese watch, and in Japan there’s a actual hatred for seen put on and tear. The Caliber 0100’s case makes use of Tremendous Titanium, a proprietary Citizen course of for creating a tough, scratch-resistant layer over the bottom titanium.
Citizen definitely provides Tremendous Titanium in inexpensive watches, however most different gown watches on a bracelet on the market aren’t this mild… or if they’re, they definitely aren’t as scratch resistant. So there you’ve it, the gown watch in titanium that doesn’t want the wearer to instantly fear about scratches — how splendidly Japanese is that?
Some variations of the Caliber 0100 watch include a strap, however I at all times choose metallic bracelets when they’re out there. This bracelet could be very comfy and, as I discussed above, light-weight in its really feel. It’s a seven-link-style design that makes use of a good-looking built-in foldover push-button deployant clasp. Every thing in regards to the bracelet is nicely made, however the design is a bit generic for some. Additionally, sizing the bracelet is one thing that may be greatest carried out by an expert, as Citizen designed it to be only a bit extra complicated than it would seem at a look. I additionally would have beloved for the bracelet to supply a small micro-adjust function. I believe with some effort, Citizen may have designed an exceptionally sensible and discreet micro-adjust for the bracelets on its finer merchandise.
My favourite a part of the Caliber 0100 dial is one thing that’s simple to overlook, and that’s the gracefully curved second hand. This function is essentially the most partaking a part of the dial, each visually and intellectually. First, let’s speak about how the hand is made and the way it operates. Most quartz actions have a severe limitation in terms of the load of palms it will probably carry. Light-weight palms are sometimes shorter and never practically as engaging given their relative simplicity. Some quartz actions are “excessive torque,” which suggests they’ve the energy to function heavier palms. The Caliber 0100 is simply such a motion.
The motion was designed not solely to hold heavier seconds palms but additionally to remove the whiplash impact that makes ticking seconds on lesser watches “stutter” as they transfer across the dial and find yourself trying low-cost. Sure, the Grand Seiko 9F motion additionally has this function, however Citizen ups it in just a few methods. Every Caliber 0100 watch is hand assembled, with a part of the meeting course of being seconds hand alignment. Grand Seiko does this, however to my data it doesn’t embody an anti-shock system that realigns palms that will have been shaken misplaced. It is a function that Casio additionally has on its fancier merchandise, and now Citizen has made use of this clever system to maintain the Caliber 0100 motion working with precision for a few years.
The second hand on the Caliber 0100 is thus exactly hand-adjusted to precisely hit every mark, immediately on the mark, and is curved all the way down to additional show that reality. Watching it function is a real watch-nerd pleasure. It additionally occurs to be produced from coated brass, which provides it a high-end look principally related to mechanical watches, which have a tendency to hold heavier palms. Then, there’s the truth that the timepiece is all about being correct to at least one second per yr — a element that you just’ll be reminded of as you obsess over the perfection inherent within the operation of a small ticking piece of metallic.
Dial design itself is easy, if not additionally minimalist. Except for some tiny textual content at 6 o’clock, the one textual content on the Caliber 0100 dial is an utilized Citizen emblem. Many of the dial is devoted to the diamond-polished (with brushed sections, as nicely) palms and matching hour markers. Their super-flat polished surfaces replicate mild for a luxurious feeling however don’t blur mild, which might hamper legibility. The dial additionally has skinny, printed second indicators and just about nothing else. The dial isn’t devoid of detailing, nevertheless.
An in depth inspection of the dial reveals spirited shapes used for the palms and hour makers, in addition to a sexy and masculine elongated hexagon sample for the in any other case black face. This face can also be designed to supply a hidden prism impact, which permits mild to go by way of it. Citizen is essentially the most subtle firm on the planet when it comes making mild permeable dials on account of it creating the Eco-Drive, light-powered watch. A bit of sunshine on the dial goes to charging the luminant, because the palms and 4 of the hour markers are painted with small sections of lume.
Despite the fact that the Caliber 0100 could be very conventional in theme, it’s something however a retro watch. Citizen masterfully incorporates components of historic Japanese watch face design however renders it with a contemporary sense of form, textures, and end that I discover actually interesting. A small nod to the “up to date” character of the watch is the atypical geometric crown, which in all probability will get to look that method as Citizen doesn’t intend for the wearer to make use of it very a lot (until they’re touring, that’s). On the rear of the watch is a show caseback with a view of the Caliber 0100 motion.
Whereas not novel, it’s nonetheless enjoyable to see a high-end quartz motion proudly show its motion by way of the again of a watch much like mechanical watches. The Caliber 0100 motion is adorned and provided in a principally anthracite end that properly matches the dial. One of many neat options on show when viewing the motion is the tightly copper wire-wrapped motor system.
A motion like this you wish to see, and I hope that when Citizen continues to provide the 0100 after this preliminary restricted version run, it would select to maintain displaying it off. Now, let’s finish the overview by speaking in regards to the Caliber 0100 motion itself. In earlier aBlogtoWatch articles in regards to the Citizen Caliber 0100 watch and motion, a lot of the motion’s technical story is mentioned. I like to recommend that readers within the internal workings of this motion and its developed seek the advice of the linked articles above. I’ll, nevertheless, briefly focus on the important thing speaking factors and assist put the Caliber 0100 motion into perspective.
In order for you higher timekeeping in your wrist than the Caliber 0100, you’ll must strap on a watch with an atomic clock in it. These do exist and require an unique and separated system that measures a steady type of nuclear degradation to foundation time conserving round. These uncommon watches are something however elegant (to not point out not wearable or sensible). And, as Citizen argues, these actions aren’t autonomous both — the Caliber 0100 doesn’t must depend on a third-party system to will get one second per yr accuracy.
The Caliber 0100 is actually like a typical quartz motion however on steroids. It additionally occurs to get by with a beefier system whereas counting on sipping energy from a battery that’s being continuously charged merely by the sunshine. The Caliber 0100 may be the best achievement of any Citizen Eco-Drive motion as a result of it generates sufficient energy for a high-frequency quartz motion. How that is attainable is a thriller to me and one which Citizen understandably retains shut.
How high-frequency are we speaking about? Word that an Omega MegaQuartz watch (from about 45 years in the past) that operated at a decrease frequency has a battery lifetime of about six months (on a fairly large cell). Gentle-powered watches operated by utilizing particular methods to maintain energy consumption down. Most quartz watches (together with most Eco-Drive actions) function at 32,768 Hz and supply about 10-15 seconds of accuracy monthly. The Citizen Caliber 0100 operates at eight,400,000 Hz, which is the way it is ready to get accuracy of only one second per yr. eight.4MHz is actually the velocity of a primitive pc processor, and its velocity by way of a watch motion permits for mere nano-sized parts of error (which negatively impact accuracy).
Whereas their technique for implementing this construction in a wristwatch motion continues to be a secret, Citizen could be very open about the truth that the Caliber 0100 makes use of a unique form of quartz crystal than the “y minimize” present in most different quartz watches. As a substitute, the Caliber 0100 makes use of an “AT minimize” quartz crystal oscillator that may ship extra efficiency however can also be extra affected by its atmosphere (at all times a problem with wristwatches that find yourself in no matter atmosphere their wearer occurs to be in). Citizen’s engineering crew was capable of finding a way for utilizing this novel (for watches) piece of quartz timekeeping expertise, and once more, that is simply one of many spectacular engineering tales within the Caliber 0100 motion.
Now you would possibly perceive why Citizen waited till its 100th anniversary as an organization to unveil the Caliber 0100 motion. From a watch fanatic perspective this extraordinarily elegant wristwatch comprises a tour de pressure of micro-engineering innovation and provides class-defining (and record-setting) efficiency. Any lay shopper can perceive and recognize the superlative accuracy of the motion, in addition to the sturdy case and lasting aesthetic fashion of the Caliber 0100 watch case and dial design. Bringing collectively a lot of what Citizen as an organization does nicely, the Caliber 0100 watch isn’t only a compelling restricted version timepiece that ups the bar for the whole model, it is usually a workforce’s love letter to the corporate they work for delivered on the vital event of 100 years making timepieces.
Citizen isn’t unfamiliar with luxurious watches, per se, however not like Seiko, it has not but loved an excessive amount of world success with its higher-end truthful. Plenty of years in the past, Citizen bought a whole lot of consideration when it launched the Campanola (one among which was the second or so timepiece I ever reviewed on aBlogtoWatch) that was aligned as a high-end quartz watch assortment. These timepieces stay area of interest at greatest, as of late. Citizen additionally later bought just a few Swiss luxurious watch manufacturers and in addition owns the La Joux-Perret manufacturing unit in Switzerland. I say all this to present some context for Citizen’s involvement within the luxurious timepiece area. The Caliber 0100 isn’t priced like the everyday Citizen watch. You get much more on your cash, however its not widespread for shoppers to spend Rolex cash on a Citizen.
That stated, Citizen is aware of that, when coming into a brand new area, it will probably take years to actually penetrate the market. My hope is that the Caliber 0100 is just the start of an extended legacy of high-end true luxurious quartz watches from the model that constructed off of this preliminary core promise of being Eco-Drive with one second annual accuracy. It’s off to an excellent begin. Value for the Citizen Caliber 0100 reference AQ6021-51E (restricted version of 500 items) watch is $7,400 USD. Study extra on the Citizen web site right here.
Mandatory Knowledge
>Model: Citizen
>Mannequin: Caliber 0100 (reference AQ6021-51E as examined)
>Value: $7,400 USD
>Measurement: 38mm-wide, 9.1mm-thick, ~44mm lug-to-lug distance
>When reviewer would personally put on it: As a day by day put on when desirous to view my wrist and examine a glimpse of in any other case not possible perfection. Actually as a gown watch. When for another purpose excessive, analog accuracy is required.
>Good friend we’d advocate it to first: Accuracy and precision nut who loves the classics as a lot as they love science fiction.
>Finest attribute of watch: Motion efficiency is unimaginable and delightful in a method a luxurious timepiece ought to be. Total design of watch exemplifies the individuals who made it in a really satisfying method. Dial design and legibility is superb. Case could be very light-weight and Tremendous Titanium development is extremely reassuring.
>Worst attribute of watch: Bracelet is sweet however may have a bit extra character. Case dimension is small for a variety of wearers. New increased value level for Citizen will take shoppers a while to regulate to.
