It feels just like the paint remains to be drying on Panerai‘s model new Hudson Yards boutique in New York Metropolis, however the retail house has wasted little time making certain it’s absolutely stocked with all the newest 2020 novelties – together with the Luminor Marina Carbotech ref. PAM 1661, which was simply introduced a bit over a month in the past.
This specific launch is reportedly simply the proverbial tip of the iceberg, in what’s anticipated to be a giant 12 months for the model’s bestselling Luminor assortment. And in the event you haven’t been following alongside, Panerai has – for the reason that appointment of recent CEO Jean Marc Pontroue — been streamlining its choices into three distinct collections: Submersible, which is a correct dive watch with a correct rotating bezel, the Radiomir, which has a clean bezel and no crown guard (obtainable in each wire and extra angular 1940-style lugs), and the emblematic Luminor, which additionally has a clean bezel however is fitted with Panerai’s distinctive crown guard locking system.
2019 noticed the simplification of those three collections, and the introduction of a slew of recent Submersible watches. For 2020, Panerai plans to additional pare again the general breadth of the spectrum, whereas introducing new variations of its hottest fashions to maintain issues fascinating. And for this 12 months, that first instance is the 1661, which provides a much more wearable and attainable twist on the wild 49mm Luminor Lab ID watch from 2017, of which solely 50 had been made, every costing practically $50,000 dollars.
This specific reference remains to be massive and nonetheless costly, however remains to be a fraction of the price at simply over $12,000, and it’s a much more manageable 44mm vast — primarily Panerai’s “medium-sized” case providing. It additionally wears a lot lighter and fewer top-heavy than many stainless-steel Luminor choices, because of the light-weight Carbotech case, which is akin to titanium when it comes to its bodily weight and heat on the wrist. It’s a wonderful choice for many who love Panerai’s basic minimalist dial aesthetic however have maybe been turned off by the burden and wrist presence of the model’s extra conventional metal choices.
Higher nonetheless, is that that is the one Luminor exterior the Lab ID that provides this cool Tron-like aesthetic within the blue lume. Absent the luminous perimeter across the subsidiary seconds, skeletonized handset, and the visually hanging motion structure, this Carbotech is in any other case similar to the Lab ID at a look. In retaining step with Panerai’s new technique, it seems that the black-on-blue look is now reserved for the Carbotech watches, giving the subset of high-tech choices their very own hanging visible identifier.
As talked about, the P.9010 is a far cry from the ultra-sophisticated P.3001/C motion within the Lab-ID, which required no oil and was assured for 50 years. PAM 1661 bears a barely extra normal set of chronometric expectations — hidden behind the titanium caseback is an automated calibre with a 3 day energy reserve, hacking seconds, and a quick-adjust hour hand, making this an ideal look ahead to anybody who commonly hops between time zones.
I’ve personally all the time beloved the look of solid carbon fiber watches, with their mottled, multi-layered striations that tackle a distinctly geologic look in lots of situations. Nonetheless, Panerai’s Carbotech instances have a way more directional, uniform layered look, which means that these instances aren’t solid carbon fiber within the conventional sense (the place particular person “unfastened” carbon fibers are combined with resin and subjected to intense stress to kind singular shapes which are then machined into the watch instances), however somewhat particular person sheets of carbon fiber layered with resin and heated to provide a stable block, which is, once more, machined into the case that’s now draped over my wrist.
It’s a particular look, albeit one which I nonetheless actually get pleasure from — particularly given the light-weight and straightforward wearability. I would be the first to confess that black-cased watches aren’t for everybody, however there’s nonetheless loads of 2020 remaining, and many extra Luminor watches within the pipeline, so die-hard traditionalist ‘Rristi ought to keep tuned as these tales develop. As soon as once more, the worth of the Panerai Luminor Carbotech PAM 1661 is $12,800. Be taught extra at panerai.com.
