Microbrands occupy an odd area within the watch world, largely due to the staggering range captured by that one umbrella time period. On one finish of the microbrand spectrum are the numerous Rolex Submariner “homages” and fly-by-night Kickstarter tasks whose design course of consists of choosing a brand and number of off-the-shelf elements, thereby “disrupting the watch business.” On the opposite finish of the spectrum are ardour tasks created by devoted watch fans actually seeking to create one thing new and completely different with a novel design language. Even a cursory look on the Marnaut Darkish Surge reveals that it falls squarely within the latter camp of enthusiast-driven manufacturers.
Based in 2018 by Mario Jutronic, the Croatian model’s inaugural providing is the Marnaut Darkish Surge dive watch. The idea behind the Darkish Surge was to create an authentic however enduring design with performance at its core. It is a watch impressed by a love of the ocean — a sea urchin shell offered the blueprint for the dial design — and options like 300m of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and amply utilized C3 Tremendous-LumiNova promise that the Darkish Surge shall be proper at dwelling beneath the waves. Sadly, I stay removed from the ocean, however I had the prospect to spend loads of time with the Darkish Surge on my terrestrial adventures to see the way it fared as a every day companion.
Coming in at 42mm-wide in a stainless-steel case and 13mm case peak, the Marnaut Darkish Surge is on-trend for a contemporary diver, however the case form itself alters the proportions resulting from its lengthy and chunky ~53mm lugs and a 20mm lug-width. The result’s that the watch seems bigger on wrist than its 42mm case may counsel. To be clear, that is primarily a visible challenge. The lengthy lugs slope down steeply, hugging the wrist, so even on my 6.75” wrist, I had no issues with consolation or wearability.
The case itself is blocky with onerous angles and no beveling or blended ending to melt the traces. The angles aren’t as extreme as a Stowa Prodiver or Omega Ploprof, however the watch provides off the same utilitarian, nearly industrial, aesthetic. The large lugs are distinctive and are seemingly a product of choosing a 20mm lug-width. Personally, I want 20mm straps over 22mm, however 22mm would have lowered a little bit of the majority from the lugs and maybe aided the proportions. Even at this cheap worth level, I might have most well-liked a bit extra refinement. Some beveling and sprucing on the lugs may have lowered the visible heft and set off the excessive polish markers on the dial, growing the watch’s versatility.
The Darkish Surge encompasses a 120 click on unidirectional bezel with crisp, constructive motion. Of notice is the absence of numerals on the bezel itself. You’ll discover a triangle at 60 and dashes each 10 minutes, however that’s it. Whilst you lose performance for timing, flip off the lights and the design alternative makes much more sense. The bezel markers are all lumed and play off the radiating utilized markers on the dial to create a unified design. It’s a powerful impact that’s onerous to not get pleasure from. Rounding out the case options are a domed sapphire crystal, signed crown, and embellished caseback. Fairly than an engraving, a stylized M brand is raised on the middle of the caseback. Good contact.
To date, nothing about this watch has strayed removed from path of a typical diver. However issues change once we get to the dial — and that is the place the watch actually shines. Beginning on the outer fringe of the dial, the hours are indicated by utilized rectangular markers, with consecutively smaller round markers transferring inward towards the middle of the dial, solely damaged up by utilized Arabic numerals at three, 6, 9, and 12. Marnaut explains the inspiration for the dial as coming from the shell of a sea urchin. I can see that, and I’d think about that hyperlink to the ocean could be much more obvious on a sunburst blue dial. I confess that after I have a look at the dial, I’m transported into the Millennium Falcon getting into lightspeed. Both method, the closest parallel in dial design I can consider is the ZRC North Journey… however actually, it’s not that shut.
I applaud Marnaut for its creativity; it’s all the time refreshing to see one thing new and daring from a younger model. Initially, I believed that the ample utilized markers would improve legibility; nonetheless, I really discovered them a bit of distracting however to not the purpose of decreasing readability. As a result of they’re so integral to the dial design, I wouldn’t change a factor. The handset retains issues easy, permitting the main focus to stay on the dial. The modified arrow hour hand and straight minutes hand are paying homage to the Tudor Ranger handset however depart through the use of a lollipop seconds hand. Just like the markers, the arms are all high-polish with C3 Tremendous-LumiNova fill.
When it comes to dial textual content, Marnaut retains issues minimal and balanced. One gripe I’ve is that the absence of minute markers makes setting the time a bit difficult. If you happen to care in regards to the actual placement of the minute hand whereas setting, robust luck. Happily, this challenge shall be remedied with Model 2 of the Darkish Surge. The branding below 12 is balanced by auto and matic cut up into two traces above 6. It’s a bit odd however offers dial symmetry, so I’ll take it. One small element that’s straightforward to miss is the longitude and latitude offered instead of the standard “Made in” designation at 6 o’clock. Kind the coordinates into Google Maps and also you’ll be transported to Biševo, Croatia, a small island within the Adriatic Sea, dwelling to the Blue Cave, a preferred diving vacation spot. A small contact, however I adore it.
The Marnaut Darkish Surge is powered by a Miyota 9015 automated motion that options hacking seconds, a 42-hour energy reserve, and beats at 28.8kbph. At this worth level, the motion is a stable, dependable alternative and, as anticipated, I had no points with the motion. The draw back to the Miyota 9015 motion is rotor noise. In every day use, it’s not noticeable, however put the watch as much as your ear (or in a quiet room) and provides it a shake and also you get extra suggestions than different actions like an ETA 2824-2. Once more, not noticeable a majority of the time however one thing price noting.
The Marnaut Darkish Surge comes mounted on a silicone strap with signed buckle. The strap is pliable and comfy and could be an excellent companion for any water actions. The one draw back to silicone is that it acts as a lint magnet. The wonderful thing about a black-dial diver, nonetheless, is its versatility in terms of straps. Marnaut additionally offers a gray Italian leather-based strap that gives a good-looking pairing, however given the totally brushed surfaces and onerous angles, it’s onerous to say it clothes up the watch. Although each straps have been stable pairings, I additionally switched issues up, spending time carrying the Darkish Surge on a darkish gray Phenomenato strap and a darkish inexperienced Erika’s Originals strap. As I stated, black dial divers are implausible in the event you like to vary up the persona of your watch with a wide range of straps, and I loved experimenting with completely different appears. Ultimately, the gray Phenomenato was in all probability my favourite pairing.
One essential notice is that Marnaut is at present growing a three-link bracelet that shall be accessible for the following iteration of the Darkish Surge. From my fast peek on the prototype, I’m positive this shall be an choice that can enchantment to many patrons and one I’d be wanting to attempt.
Black dial divers from microbrands across the $500 worth level aren’t precisely uncommon, however I take discover when a model manages to launch a watch on this extremely aggressive area that stands out from the group with engaging and authentic design language. If the black dial and black bezel aren’t your fashion, the Darkish Surge can also be provided with a black dial and metal bezel or with a blacked-out PVD case and bezel. I’m glad to see that Marnaut is already addressing among the Darkish Surge’s shortcomings by including minute markers and providing a bracelet choice, however a bit extra refinement on the case could be welcome. No matter these quibbles, the Marnaut Darkish Surge captured the perfect of what microbrands might be: playgrounds for experimentation in design, pushed by a ardour for watches. I’ll be watching carefully to see what this small Croatian model does sooner or later. The Marnaut Darkish surge is priced at $549 and extra info might be discovered at marnaut.com.
Obligatory Knowledge
>Model: Marnaut
>Mannequin: Darkish Surge
>Worth: $549
>Measurement: 42mm-wide, 13mm-tall, ~53mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug-width
>When reviewer would personally put on it: As a enjoyable, informal watch, particularly on the seaside.
>Buddy we’d suggest it to first: Somebody on the lookout for an reasonably priced diver with a novel design language and fascinating backstory.
>Greatest attribute of watch: The dial. Merely cool.
>Worst attribute of watch: An absence of refinement on the case, significantly the blocky lugs.
