Full disclosure: I’m a giant Stowa fan. The truth is, a Stowa flieger (pilot watch) similar to the one I’m reviewing right here was the gateway drug that led me into my horological habit. No shock, then, that I used to be thrilled when Stowa agreed to mortgage me its flagship watch to evaluation: the Stowa Flieger Klassik 40. For these unfamiliar with the model, Stowa was initially based in 1927 by Walter Storz and remained a family-run firm till it was bought by Jörg Schauer in 1996. Upon taking up Stowa, Schauer stored true to the historical past of the model, reanimating and updating watches from Stowa’s huge again catalog, together with funky divers from the 60s (Seatime) and the flieger watches for which Stowa is probably going greatest recognized, and innovating with new kinds and designs with a distinctly German aesthetic and completely cheap value level.
Stowa was one of many 5 watchmakers that provided watches to the German Air Drive, or Luftwaffe, throughout WWII alongside A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Laco, and Wempe. The Baumuster “A” dial, which options Arabic hour numerals and a particular triangle and dots at 12, was initially produced in 1940 with an enormous 55mm case and a Unitas 2812 motion. These have been true instrument watches and used as such, being flown on numerous missions throughout WWII. Stowa’s manufacturing of the B-Uhr watches continued till 1945 when the Pforzheim manufacturing facility was bombed by British forces. Regardless of, or due to, this poignant hyperlink to historical past, the flieger watch’s simplicity, legibility, and iconic design have made them one of the in style and recognizable watch kinds right this moment. Stowa, nevertheless, didn’t recreate the flieger till the watch was resurrected in 1997. Since then, it’s develop into an immediate traditional amongst watch collectors.
With a conventional flieger watch, the design parameters have been set for practically a century, so the measure of success isn’t a lot in design, however in execution. To place it merely, Stowa has nailed the key parts, the small particulars, and the intangibles that make an excellent watch. Add within the extraordinarily engaging price-to-quality ratio, and the Stowa Flieger Klassik is a worth proposition that’s onerous to beat.
The Stowa Flieger Klassik is available in a 40mm chrome steel case — a far cry from the 55mm Flieger watches worn by the Luftwaffe, however a complete lot extra wearable day-to-day. That mentioned, regardless of the extra cheap measurement, the watch has loads of wrist presence as a result of small bezel and 48.6mm lugs. These lengthy lugs, coupled with the slender bezel, end in a watch that wears giant, however comfortably, on my 6.75” wrist. Although the dial design is conventional, the nice brushing, elegant curves, and sapphire show caseback are clear and welcome nods to modernity. One throwback ingredient, nevertheless, comes within the type of the big onion crown, which is spot-on aesthetically for this flieger and is a pleasure to make use of. The crown is push-pull and doesn’t screw down, contributing to the modest 50m water resistance. My private desire can be for a screw-down crown and elevated water resistance. Notice, nevertheless, that these wishing for larger water resistance can go for Stowa’s Flieger Sport, although it is available in a bigger 43mm case.
To me, the case is the place the maturity of Stowa’s design language and Jörg Schauer’s fantastically restrained model involves the fore. There’s nothing flashy or new about what Stowa has executed with the case; it merely nailed the traces, proportions, and ending. The result’s easy and stylish with nothing you’d wish to add or take away — besides, maybe, for the FL23883 engraving on the aspect. This designation was printed on the case of military-issued fliegers and derives from the unique German army specs: FL for flight, 23 for navigation, and 883 was designation code from the German Testing Workplace for Aeronautics. Notice that, like many points on this watch, the FL23883 engraving is solely non-compulsory, and I’d argue would most likely match greatest on the model with a sterile dial (no brand) and no date. Regardless, it’s an possibility if you need it.
The Stowa Flieger Klassik incorporates a Baumuster “A” dial with Arabic hours, date window at 6 o’clock, triangle with two dots on the level at 12, and a subdued brand under 12. The dial is matte black with exceptionally crisp printing and software of ample C3 Tremendous-LumiNova. Stowa affords a number of variants, together with date or no date choices, and sterile dials that lack the Stowa brand. In the event you’re searching for historic accuracy, the sterile no-date model is the way in which to go. And whereas I’ll give the no-date model the nod aesthetically as a result of elevated symmetry, I personally choose date problems if given the selection, and Stowa’s placement of the date window at 6 is as unobtrusive because it will get. The brand is delicate and darkish grey, and I choose it on fashions with the date window. Talking of the brand, Stowa modified to the trendy, all-caps Stowa and W seal a number of years again and brought on a minor ruckus, with Stowa followers upset at shedding the long-used insignia that includes a swooping S. My private Stowa Flieger had the outdated brand and I’ve to confess…I like the brand new brand higher on the Flieger Klassik.
Stowa’s handset options thermal-blued, lumed sword fingers and a completely illuminated seconds hand. In the event you haven’t hung out with thermal-blued fingers, they are surely well worth the time, effort, and expense that goes into them. The fingers change coloration relying on viewing angle and light-weight, shifting from an intense blue to deep black. The surprising pop of coloration on such a sterile and austere watch supplies life and character that may in any other case be missing. As a lot as I like the aesthetics of the blued fingers in most lighting situations, their form is considerably problematic at occasions. At sure angles, the fingers flip black, disappearing into the dial and leaving solely the lume seen for telling time. Nevertheless, the scale and form of the hour and minute lume is moderately related, which reduces immediate readability.
The Stowa Flieger Klassik incorporates a Prime Grade ETA 2824-2 motion displayed behind a sapphire caseback. Like each ETA 2824-2 motion, it beats at 28.8kbph and incorporates a 38-hour energy reserve. There are a variety of variations that set Prime Grade ETA actions other than Normal and Elaboré actions, together with the mainspring, hairspring, and pallet stones, however the primary benefit is that the Prime Grade motion will be adjusted in 5 positions and has a median deviation of +/- four seconds per day. The motion is properly embellished and a step up, visually, from an ordinary ETA 2824-2. Stowa additionally outfits the Flieger Klassik with a customized rotor engraved with particulars of the watch. It’s a pleasant contact.
The Stowa Flieger Klassik is offered with a spread of strap choices, however mine got here mounted to what I think about the archetypal pairing for a flieger watch — a light-weight brown leather-based rivet strap. Out of the field, the strap is moderately thick and stiff, but it surely breaks in and conforms to the wrist comparatively rapidly. I’ve talked about the price-to-quality ratio of Stowa watches, and the strap is not any exception; you’ll be able to decide up an additional off the web site for all of €20. Had been I buying one myself, I’d be including the black leather-based rivet strap to the cart at checkout. For €20, why not?
Whereas I do really feel that the sunshine brown inventory leather-based strap is essentially the most becoming pairing for this watch? It’s a black dial pilot watch, so it can inevitably look nice on quite a lot of straps, together with NATO-style straps that intensify the army vibe and minimal sew leather-based straps for an off-the-cuff, refined look. My favourite pairing was with a darkish inexperienced Erika’s Originals Marine Nationale strap — and sure, I acknowledge the irony of pairing a German flieger with a French MN strap. If you’d like a bracelet, you’re out of luck until you go for a Milanese mesh band.
There isn’t any scarcity of choices should you’re available in the market for a flieger, however should you’re desirous about an historic hyperlink to the previous, Laco is the opposite clear possibility within the ~$1000 realm. Laco affords a variety of fliegers in its catalog, however the 39mm $1130 Laco Heidelberg might be the closest various. Whereas the Stowa feels remarkably refined and is clearly a contemporary watch, regardless of the Klassik moniker, Laco’s lengthy straight lugs and blasted end make the watch really feel extra like an historic artifact. And, should you really need the genuine look, Laco affords a sequence of flieger watches that go nicely past fake classic lume and are artificially aged to look as if they simply emerged from a rusty ammo field.
Ultimate Ideas
Stowa has a rabid following of followers for good motive — it produces exceptionally well-made watches at an accessible value level. On specs alone, the watch is a good worth: top-grade ETA 2824-2 with customized rotor and show caseback, sapphire crystal, thermally blued fingers, a fantastically crisp dial, and a number of other customization choices. Add to this the truth that the watch is made in Germany from one of many historic producers of flieger watches that’s now run by Jörg Schauer and a staff that’s recognized for wonderful customer support, and the worth proposition is difficult to beat. My main gripe is that, after spending a number of months with a Stowa Flieger Klassik again on my wrist, my checking account goes to take one other hit as soon as my evaluation piece heads again to Germany and I inevitably place an order with Stowa. The Stowa Flieger Klassik 40 is priced at €924.37 excluding VAT, and extra data will be discovered at www.stowa.de.
Mandatory Information
>Model: Stowa
>Mannequin: Flieger Klassik 40
>Worth: €924.37
>Dimension: 40mm-wide, 10.2mm-thick, 48.6mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug-width
>When reviewer would personally put on it: Virtually anytime, however particularly when pairing with good, informal garments.
>Buddy we’d suggest it to first: Anybody searching for a flexible, on a regular basis watch that appreciates the historical past and aesthetics of pilot watches.
>Finest attribute of watch: Case execution and heat-blued fingers.
>Worst attribute of watch: Would favor elevated water resistance to 100m; minute and hour fingers could possibly be extra distinct.
