In an unsurprising flip of occasions, Audemars Piguet has re-focused its consideration to its previous designs. The Audemars Piguet Remaster01 Self-Winding Chronograph is a brand new watch launch for 2020 that reiterates the good-looking design of a 1943 authentic in a barely confused, albeit nonetheless very handsome package deal.
The unique we’re referring to is the Audemars Piguet Reference 1533, a three-register, two-tone (in some variations), 36.5mm broad, hand-wound chronograph produced in extraordinarily low portions within the early 1940s. The Remaster01, or [Re]grasp01, takes the core parts of that aesthetic, particularly the tear drop lugs, two-tone case development utilizing metal and 18kt pink gold, and the three-register dial format — a very unique element for the time.
There have been some appreciable adjustments carried out because the 1533 will get a brand new lease of life in a brand new millennium. To start with, changed is the modest dimension, now inflated from 36.5mm to 40mm. 36.5mm could be completely acceptable right now — simply consider a Day-Date 36, or some smaller Breguet watches for some exhausting proof on that. Audemars Piguet’s selection of identify with “[Re]grasp” works nice in that it implies how the model doesn’t intend to create precise reproductions of its historic originals. Given limitations in authentic motion and different elements availability, that might be a tall order… Although removed from not possible, and we’ll say some extra on bit later.
Additionally gone is the wonderful, hand-wound Valjoux 13VZAH caliber, in favor of the model’s just lately launched computerized chronograph caliber 4409 from Code 11.59 (the place it was known as 4401). The 2 adjustments might very effectively be intertwined: the 4401 caliber measures 32mm in diameter, over 2mm greater than the Valjoux authentic… And the caseback picture already reveals how Audemars Piguet has achieved all it may well to shrink wrap the case across the motion as a lot as potential.
The eagle-eyed amongst you’ll have observed how the dial format has additionally been modified: it simply so occurs that the trendy motion has a very totally different sub-dial format, the place all three of the subsidiary indications are in one other location than on the Valjoux 13. Audemars Piguet had for lengthy been given a tough time over not producing its personal manufacture chronograph caliber — counting on a base in-house AP motion with sourced modules on prime as a substitute, all of the whereas, let’s be sincere, pricing itself comfortably amongst competitors with proprietary actions. Over all of the noise round Code 11.59, this new caliber might have been disregarded by many, however it’s a high quality motion that’s virtually reaches as much as the heights the place Audemars Piguet likes to suppose it’s. In its Caliber 4401 model, it comprised 367 superbly completed elements.
At the beginning, we referred to the Remaster01 as a handsome, albeit confused package deal. Right here’s why. The Audemars Piguet Remaster01 Self-Winding Chronograph is priced at a whopping $53,000 earlier than taxes, and is restricted to 500 items. The steep value for what’s a two-tone watch with a easy dial and succesful motion with a extensively out there feature-set implies that this can be for the hardcore collectors, these determined to throw any warning to the wind simply to personal a watch that they reckon is a pivotal level within the historical past of the model that they love. Nonetheless, limiting the Remaster01 to 500 items sort of goes towards that: even at half that quantity it could be exhausting to think about it extraordinarily uncommon.
As a result of even when fifty massive ones is meaningless for you, your notion seemingly isn’t. And shopping for one thing that your friends are prone to contemplate as lower than nice worth, will harm your notion — and for a lot of well-heeled collectors, cash isn’t the problem, however the notion of their fastidiously curated assortment, is.
And it’s not just like the Audemars Piguet Remaster01 Self-Winding Chronograph is coming into right into a void, both. Au contraire, the market has some actually sturdy choices out there proper now, all to quench one’s thirst for some vintage-mixed fashionable horology. Certain, no two manufacturers could have the identical assets, monetary background and different specificities — however Audemars Piguet has at occasions actually taken issues to the following stage in stressing its prowess and self-proclaimed superiority. Armed with that, and a billion-dollar turnover, it’s not precisely wanting means both. Final, however not least, the assets at a model’s disposal hardly rank amongst prime issues to the watch purchaser on the market seeking to get one of the best worth for his hard-earned cash.
You’ll be able to decide up the brand new Omega Speedmaster Ed White for $14,100, with a traditionally right Caliber 321 re-introduced at large expense and energy… For 40-grand much less. If you’re after posher names, you may decide up a Breguet reference 5287 with a strong gold case, hand-guilloche dial and caseback, and to-a-tee hand-wound caliber within the mid-30okay vary. Even Vacheron Constantin, a model not precisely famed for its competitively priced alternate options, is a few $13,000 cheaper with its Historiques Cornes de Vaches 1955 in metal.
Audemars Piguet has a previous wealthy with completely excellent watches and, on a private word, I can’t await extra of them to resurface once more on this “[Re]grasp” kind. However from a powerhouse like AP, many collectors will count on greater than beauty, a hardly unique limitation and a steep, steep value for it to be actually thought of as re-mastered.
Worth for the Audemars Piguet Remaster01 Self-Winding Chronograph is $53,000, earlier than taxes, and it’s going to be a boutique unique. You’ll be able to study extra concerning the [Re]Grasp01 later when it will definitely goes stay on audemarspiguet.com.
