You’d be forgiven for saying that Jaeger LeCoultre is taking part in it protected this 12 months. May even be forgiven for questioning whether or not or not its two new novelties for the inaugural digital Watches & Wonders are even new in any respect — however as is the case with most Jaeger LeCoultre watches, we should have endurance, grasshopper. Firstly, sure — this isn’t a significant assortment launch just like the Polaris in 2018 or the really awe-inspiring Grasp Grande Custom Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel that collectively dropped jaws at SIHH final 12 months. As a substitute, what now we have is 2 new references amounting to a refined refresh on the model’s foundational Grasp Management assortment, suggesting that the Le Sentier manufacture is taking part in it lots safer than a few of its friends within the Richemont group — an comprehensible place to personal given the quantity of market uncertainty in the mean time. However a more in-depth look reveals a long-overdue mechanical replace to 2 of JLC’s elementary calibres, which in and of itself, ought to present a touch that the model isn’t simply listening to its constituents, it additionally stays intent on *ahem* preserving with the occasions and delivering extra worth from a chronometric standpoint.
Specs
Model: Jaeger LeCoultre
Mannequin: Grasp Management Date (ref. Q4018420)
Dimensions: 40mm-wide, eight.7mm-thick
Water Resistance: 5atm (50 meters)
Case Materials: stainless metal
Crystal/Lens: sapphire
Motion: Jaeger LeCoultre cal. 899
Frequency: 4Hz
Energy Reserve: 70 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Novonappa calfskin
Worth & Availability: $6,750 USD
The primary Jaeger LeCoultre I ever coveted was a silver-dialed 37mm Grasp Management ref. 140.eight.89 from the early aughts, and it’s nice to see among the traditional components that made that reference, particularly, so fascinating, making a return on this new variant. Notably the proper dial steadiness, with its sharp Dauphine handset, a bevel framing the date window and “Automatique” between dial heart and 6 o’clock. That dial steadiness is additional accentuated with the 6-9-12 markers that exhibit rounder, extra finely completed surfaces — a refined however very welcome contact.
The brand new Grasp Management Date, ref. Q4018420
…and the outgoing Grasp Management Date (ref. Q1548420) which it replaces
The traditional “JL” brand at 12 o’clock is, as soon as once more, an utilized marker — one other welcome contact that inexplicably went away within the two earlier references. Maybe extra contentiously, although, JLC has opted to return to the 40mm case, a design selection that yields an unlimited, expanse of empty dial house, in the end polarizing the transitional Grasp Management reference Q1398420 from a decade in the past. Additionally, the bezel seems thinner and extra elegant on this new model, so it’s extremely seemingly that these dials are going to really feel “visually” a lot bigger on the wrist than the present variants, however we’ll withhold all judgment on the 1mm improve in dimension till now we have an opportunity to go hands-on.
The dial detailing on the brand new Grasp Management Calendar (ref. Q4148420) has acquired the identical additional refinements, together with the identical 1mm improve in case dimension to 40mm. Good as the brand new dials are although, the true story right here isn’t a lot the aesthetic enhancements however the beating coronary heart of every of those new references. Along with an elevated energy reserve, one extraordinarily cool new purposeful element afforded by the Calendar’s up to date Calibre 866 is how the date hand (whose red-tipped pointer is now a neat little nod to the “JL” brand as an alternative of a crescent-shaped moon) jumps over the whole moon section aperture at 6 o’clock when going from the 15th to the 16th, in order to not obscure any a part of the show throughout what’s normally between the 12th and the 20th on a standard pointer date.
Specs
Model: Jaeger LeCoultre
Mannequin: Grasp Management Calendar
Dimensions: 40mm-wide, 11.6mm-thick
Water Resistance: 5atm (50 meters)
Case Materials: stainless-steel (ref. Q4148420) or 18ok Rose Gold (ref. Q4142520)
Crystal/Lens: sapphire
Motion: Jaeger LeCoultre cal. 866 (automated, day, date, month, moon section)
Frequency: 4Hz
Energy Reserve: 70 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Novonappa calfskin
Worth & Availability: Stainless-steel out there now for $10,700 USD, and rose gold out there in June for $22,400 USD
Understandably, the upgrades to Calibre 899 within the Date variant aren’t fairly as attention-grabbing, however they’re nonetheless no much less vital. Most welcome is how the anemic 38-hour energy reserve has additionally been improved to 70 hours — nice information for these vital of the cal. 899/1 actions deployed within the outgoing Grasp Management, in addition to the Polaris sports activities line from 2018. Additional enhancements have been made to the motion meeting itself, which now options titanium screws and new lubricating oils, together with new escapement and pallets, which are actually manufactured from silicon to reduce friction to be able to enhance effectivity whereas decreasing long-term put on. Better of all, these enhancements — together with an even bigger mainspring barrel — have been made with out rising the peak of both calibre, thereby preserving the skinny profiles of each watches. Each actions are, once more, subjected to JLC’s strict 1000-hour certification take a look at for chronometric reliability, and the watches they’re cased in now bear an eight-year guarantee.
Costs for each new Grasp Management fashions have elevated practically 10% from their present variants, however from a ending and motion replace standpoint, I’d argue that the rise in value is completely justified right here. For extra, head to jaeger-lecoultre.com.
