A current Friday Group Challenge made me take into consideration one in every of my favourite perfume sub-genres, which I am going to name “classic vainness” — perfumes that evoke the scent of lipsticks and the spilled residue of dusting powder, and typically even the wooden of an previous dressing desk. I’ve just a few favorites on this class: Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose and L’Artisan Parfumeur Drôle de Rose are most likely my prime decisions, however I’ve additionally tried and loved Gabriella Chieffo Camaheu, Chanel Misia, Maison Martin Margiela Reproduction Lipstick On — you get the thought.
For this perfume, indie perfumer Francesca Bianchi wears her influences proudly on her scented sleeve: she mentions Lipstick Rose’s “‘make-up recollections” in addition to État Libre d’Orange Putain des Palaces’ “female seduction and decadent soiled sensuality” as two favorites that impressed the creation of Angel’s Mud. This fragrance, “harking back to a sublime boudoir,” is meant to evolve from “powdery” and “harmless” to “intense” and “decadent.” Its notes embrace black pepper, mimosa, rose, iris, musk, sandalwood, tolu balsam, benzoin and vanilla.
Kevin wrote a constructive assessment of Bianchi’s Etruscan Water final month, and I am feeling favorably impressed by Angel’s Mud. As he stated of Etruscan Water, Angel’s Mud is “old style (in the most effective sense).” It is undoubtedly not going to attraction to anybody in search of one thing “contemporary” or youthful, however if in case you have a style for classic clothes and vintage furnishings, you will perceive its attract. Angel’s Mud is unquestionably dust-y, attributable to its notes of mimosa and iris, nevertheless it’s not fluffy — it has a darker aspect. For instance, there’s one thing nearly camphoraceous within the opening, like a deeper mint notice; is likely one of the resins popping out to play on this method? The woods below the dusky florals counsel cedar in addition to sandalwood, with a touch of some nearly — however not fairly — animalic musk. (A hundred years in the past, the perfumer would have added a drop of pure civet oil!) The dry down remains to be dusky and powdery, with a contact of creamy, rose-y vanilla.
Angel’s Mud is the olfactory equal of an previous black-and-white photograph: no shiny or saturated colours, however a lot of shadowy textures in a spread of grays. It has common sillage and persistence on my pores and skin, and it isn’t as conventionally female as most lipstick-and-powder perfumes. Males who favor dusty, woody iris scents must also discover it to their liking. In occasions of stress, I discover “classic vainness” scents much more comforting than gourmands, so I have been savoring my pattern of Angel’s Mud. All of us must discover a sense of safety the place we will, today.
Francesca Bianchi Angel’s Mud is on the market as 30 ml Extrait de Parfum. It may be discovered within the US at Indigo Perfumery for $135; Indigo additionally gives samples for buy.
