H. Moser & Cie Venturer Idea Arctic Blue Watch Masters A Colour & Helps Revalidate ‘Minimalism’

The phrase “minimalist” within the context of discussing watches has sadly reached the purpose of close to irrelevance — relegated to a catchall time period referring to the congeries of soulless copycats and lazily empty clean canvasses that sadly get coupled along with precise minimalist-design timepieces into one large, uninspired mass of mediocrity. In actuality, when many people dismiss one thing as “too minimalist, not for me” (particularly when it comes with a hefty price ticket), we truly imply it’s too bland, austere, plain, by-product, uninspired, or simply plain boring. However nonetheless, “minimalist” hasn’t been completely diminished to only a threadbare platitude but — it does get justice now and again.

H. Moser & Cie, particularly its “Idea” line, does minimalism proper. Want I remind you of the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Idea in Vantablack? Nevertheless, for one thing with shade in thoughts, I lately spent a while with the Moser Venturer Idea Small Seconds XL within the “Arctic Blue” dial, and it has one of the vital stunning executions of blue I’ve ever seen on a watch dial. The minimal unmarked dial, whereas devoid of indices, textual content, or model brand, is joyously expressive by way of the radiating “Arctic blue” fumé dial. At first, it was difficult to place my finger on why Arctic Blue speaks to me, however there’s something particular about glancing at it from the facet of my eye and feeling like there’s a cutout of the sky on my wrist, albeit an illusory sky from a world extra luminescent than ours.

I attempted to seize how the dial appears to be like within the metallic in these images, and I imagine I largely succeeded. I gazed on the Arctic Blue dial a number of instances over the course of a few weeks and I felt one thing very particular every time I checked out it. The colour triggers an instantly nostalgic and heat feeling, like a blue I’d see proper earlier than needing to rub my eyes after staring on the sky too lengthy on a sunny day as a baby. It’s instantly heat and funky, directly.

Humorous, Arctic Blue is the result of a serendipitous error by Moser whereas producing its darker “Funky Blue” dial (as seen on the Swiss Alp I coated final 12 months). I requested Moser CEO Edouard Meylan about it and he stated:

The Arctic Blue was, certainly, the results of an error when attempting to supply a batch of funky blue dials. Many parameters are essential to create these dials and small variations in timing, temperature, and shade combine can have a big effect on the ultimate consequence. The crew advised us that the dials weren’t good and needed to throw them away, I requested to see them. After I noticed it I believed we might attempt one thing with it.  We launched a particular version that turned an enormous success…”

There are few really, and actually, distinctive blue dials on the market. A watch in my private assortment, the Rolex Milgauss 116400GV “Z-Blue” involves thoughts (a watch some unlucky soul as soon as known as “the worst watch ever”…however that’s a unique article for an additional day), with its blue dial and inexperienced sapphire crystal that play in opposition to one another leading to a dynamic mix. I’ll now add Moser’s Arctic Blue to the shortlist. It’s an empyrean delight to behold, a warmly buzzing gentle blue that’s so vibrant in individual that it nearly seems backlit.

Have you ever ever tasted an apple from an orchard that’s so excellent that you simply start to see the on a regular basis grocery retailer selection as an inexpensive imitation? They each are equally thought of to be “actual” apples, however just one captures the essence of the fruit whereas the remaining are compromises. That is how the Moser Arctic Blue made me really feel about different blue dials (particularly, the lighter blue). On paper, it’s one thing fairly primary however in actuality, it’s a close-to-perfect realization of one thing easy — on this case, a shade.

As for the selective trimming of dial components, little question a few of you’ll ask, “Why did they preserve the seconds subdial?” A good query, however one which fell by the wayside for me. With its hand gliding alongside the guilloché subdial like some dreamt Zen backyard, it’s simply what this Venturer Idea must keep away from verging into barrenness.

I imagine that is the most important case dimension that H. Moser & Cie makes, at 43mm-wide with a thickness of 12.6mm. Ordinarily, I might say that this Venturer Idea might have been completed in a smaller case dimension, however on this case the dimensions of the canvass issues. I simply spent the lion’s share of this text waxing poetic about how good Arctic Blue is, and I’m sure that ample actual property is critical for its visible affect. The selection of rose gold works effectively in opposition to the dial, including a comfortable heat that balances the blue in a method metal or white gold merely couldn’t. Actually, I imagine there was a metal Arctic Blue Venturer Idea made for the Center East market (take note it’s taboo for males to put on yellow or rose gold within the Muslim world), and it does lose of that punch.

On the wrist, I discovered the 43mm case of the Venturer Idea XL to definitely put on as massive as its dimensions learn. With its curved crystal and substantial, although thankfully curved, lugs, it’s not one thing I might classify as being within the unisex class. Nonetheless, it’s a cushty put on on a 7.5-inch wrist. Yet one more factor: The crown is sweet and huge with nice ease of use when setting the time.

The leaf (feuille) fingers have a satisfying size and, whereas this isn’t essentially the most legible anti-glare watch on the earth, I do assume that some individuals have overblown the problems with glare on a few of Moser’s Idea watches. Watch media too typically conflates “exhausting to photograph” with “illegible,” and that isn’t fully true — the Venturer Idea Arctic Blue is an efficient instance.

From the exhibition caseback you possibly can see the manual-wind HMC 327, an H. Moser & Cie basic. With its idiosyncratic fissure working down the center, this can be a hand-finished motion that stands up there with the perfect of the perfect in Swiss watchmaking. It operates at 18,800 vph with a three-day energy reserve that’s measured by an indicator on the case again. The HMC 327 is completed fairly exquisitely with hand-done Geneva stripes, but it surely additionally demonstrates technical chops with its in-house-made Straumann Hairspring with Breguet hairspring which helps keep accuracy over time.

The H. Moser & Cie Venturer Idea Small Seconds XL in Arctic Blue is a minimalist triumph and, finally, an enchanting examine in shade and the way people understand it. It’s can also be, not surprisingly, a limited-production piece, with a run of 100 watches. It has a worth of $25,500. You’ll be able to be taught extra at h-moser.com.