Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi (Bertrand Duchaufour) Evaluation + Previous Hollywood Glamour Draw

Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi & Joan Crawford photograph books (Photograph: Despina Veneti)©

“I liked gardenias. I wore gardenias in all places. However sadly, I’d must throw them away about an hour after I’d put them on. They simply turned brown. Nothing you are able to do about it. I simply have an excessive amount of physique warmth…” – Joan Crawford in Paul Trent’s “The Picture Makers: Sixty Years Of Hollywood Glamour”, 1972.

Joan Crawford with gardenias in a collection of MGM publicity stills (Compilation by Despina Veneti, from her personal photograph archives) ©

In her 1971 guide “My Method of Life”, Joan Crawford states that the fragrances she “would by no means need to stay with out” on the time had been Estée Lauder Youth Dew, Lanvin Spanish Geranium and Royal Lyme, a person’s cologne; she additionally factors out that one and solely fragrance can’t go well with a girl for each event, not to mention all her life. Nevertheless, when Joan was in her late 20s and 30s, throughout her MGM heyday and on the apogee of her magnificence, no different scent was as irresistible for – or as carefully recognized with – her as that of gardenia’s. She would maintain bowls of the pearly white, swirling flowers throughout her home, put on them on her hair, neck and waist, or pin them on furs, fits, robes, even on night purses. Fan magazines famous Miss Crawford’s “gardenia obsession”, and the studio’s publicity division even had a humoristic photograph montage made, with Joan’s head because the centre of a huge gardenia blossom (included within the photograph collage above).

“Gardenia Joan” I (Inventive collage & digital results by Despina Veneti, utilizing a studio publicity nonetheless)©

The film-going public liked such little “intimate particulars” about their beloved stars being revealed, and the studio would gladly encourage any form of clean-cut, scandal-free publicity that stored the followers completely happy; on this spirit, Miss Crawford’s gardenia ardour was even showcased in her motion pictures, permitting for her favourite flowers to typically embellish or decorate the sumptuous Gilbert Adrian fashions that she wore on display screen. Sadly, precise gardenias wouldn’t survive Joan’s physique warmth for greater than an hour; to maintain herself enveloped by the scent of a freshly minimize flower the entire night time via, she began carrying Tuvaché Jungle Gardenia (launched in 1932, this perfume grew to become an prompt success in Hollywood circles, and subsequently throughout USA). Though Joan had by then acquired dozens of fragrances in her assortment, Jungle Gardenia was to be her signature scent for greater than a decade. When she briefly returned to MGM’s Culver Metropolis studios for “Torch Track” in 1953, she was welcomed again with a (extremely publicized) V.I.P. remedy. Subsequent to the lavish items, there was a relatively modest gesture of consideration: the gateman would greet Miss Crawford each morning providing her a contemporary gardenia – a relatively touching tribute to one of many studio’s biggest, most enduring stars.

“Gardenia Joan” II (Inventive collage & digital results by Despina Veneti, utilizing a studio publicity nonetheless)©

Smelling Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi for the primary time, my thoughts immediately went to the younger, radiant, ever-energetic Joan Crawford, and her craving for capturing and possessing the elusive scent of a freshly-bloomed gardenia. I then discovered that François Hénin, founding father of the Jovoy Parfums Rares shops and inventive director of the eponymous fragrance model, supposed Gardez Moi to be a loving homage to a few of the most devoted shoppers of the historic Home of Jovoy: the fabulous, daring and engaging Parisian cocottes of the roaring ’20s, whose perfumes needed to be appropriately extravagant, opulent and downright seductive. The perfume’s identify, “Gardez Moi”, actually means “Hold Me” –  however past its allusions to “stored ladies”, this identify is to me the decision of the Gardenia herself: she begs (or orders?) to be captured and safeguarded in a fragrance that might do justice to her pure magnificence. Fortunately, Bertrand Duchaufour heard her name loud and clear; the nice perfumer totally honoured the floral diva, composing a perfume that highlights the gardenia’s most alluring points, with many different stunning components taking part in supporting elements to her indeniable lead.

Counter-clockwise: Founder/inventive director of Jovoy Paris François Hénin, Grasp Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour & Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi (Pictures 1 & 2 courtesy of Jovoy, photograph three by Despina Veneti)©

M. Duchaufour reconstructs a newly bloomed gardenia in all its creamy-white, waxen-like perfection, altogether contemporary and vegetal, tropical and moist, sensual and carnal. Supported by different splendid florals (jasmine, ylang-ylang, mimosa, white lily) that don’t antagonize, not to mention outshine her, the gardenia of Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi begins out spectacularly inexperienced (with the fashionable contact of tomato leaf) and barely fruity (a mix of a raspberry observe, with the banana undertones of ylang-ylang), spiced up by a beneficiant sprinkle of black pepper and coriander. This makes for an totally scrumptious – albeit non-gourmand – opening, of the type that solely supreme-quality florals can create. In parallel, a particular aqueous vibe (I attribute it to cyclamen aldehyde) runs via the perfume, offering the gardenia with that important feeling of dewiness and humidity, whereas maintaining the perfume’s wealthy floral coronary heart glowing and ethereal. Because the vanilla, oakmoss, cedarwood and musk base develops (aided by the incensey touches that Mr. Duchaufour so typically loves so as to add), the now buttery, honeyed, virtually fleshy gardenia assumes a palpably erotic character. Exhilarating like some legendary nectar, Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi lingers on the pores and skin for hours, intoxicatingly sensuous and plush, whereas retaining the timeless magnificence of an Artwork Déco creation.

Gardenia by Robert Mapplethorpe©, 1987

Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi graciously affords to the wearer a way of otherworldly, larger-than-life glamour – of the type that one imagines when watching a shimmering, dazzling, magnificent cinematic phantasm in black and white. This might nicely have been the dream perfume of a younger and tireless Joan Crawford dancing the night time away on the Cocoanut Grove, enveloped within the beautiful aroma of her beloved flower. Recent and mesmerising for hours, and unbruised by her physique warmth, the majestic gardenia of Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi would by no means fail her.

Notes: Aldehydes, Coriander, Cyclamen, Tomato Leaf, Black Pepper; Gardenia, Ylang-Ylang, Egyptian Jasmine, Mimosa, White Lily; Virginia Cedarwood, Raspberry, Oakmoss, Styrax, Musk, Vanilla.

Disclaimer: I’d prefer to thank Jovoy Paris for my bottle of Gardez Moi. The opinions are my very own.

– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor

Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi (Photograph: Despina Veneti)©

Because of the generosity of François Hénin and Jovoy Paris Parfums Rares, we’ve a draw for a 100ml tester bottle of Jovoy Paris Gardez Moi for one registered reader in USA or Europe. It’s essential to register right here or your remark won’t rely. To be eligible, please go away a remark saying what you loved most about Despina’s evaluate of Gardez Moi, you probably have a favourite perfume by Jovoy Paris and the place you reside. Draw closes June 14, 2020

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Editor’s Notice:  On Thursday 6/11/2020 at PM EST Editor Sebastian Jara and François Hénin are going stay on @lookfeelsmellgreat  Instagram