The Invention of Life by René Magritte 1929
“Misplaced within the rages of perfume
Misplaced within the rags of regret
Misplaced within the waves of a illness
That loosens the excessive silver nerves
Oh chosen love, Oh frozen love
Oh tangle of matter and ghosts
Oh darling of angels, demons and saints…” ~ The Window by Leonard Cohen
Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive and Chatillon Lux courtesy of Shawn
When artisan perfumer and Artwork and Olfaction 2020 finalist Shawn Maher of Chatillon Lux determined to diverge right into a separate line which he named Maher Olfactive, his goal was an artwork for artwork’s sake/gradual fragrance/ launch it when he was prepared. In a really perfect universe, perfumers would possibly solely create for the sake of creation itself – however certainly everybody must eat as effectively. It’s marvelous to compose stunning fragrances which is able to attain a large viewers, however there’s a singular pleasure which evolves from formulating a fragrance for oneself using your favourite supplies heedless of price. A lot the higher if others discover it compelling. Such is the case with Shawn’s newest endeavor: Treachery.
Treachery of Pictures by René Magritte
Treachery is an inscrutable gourmand on myriad ranges, and adults solely want apply. When Shawn initially set himself concerning the process of descriptive naming, ‘That is Not a Pipe” sprang to thoughts: a double entendre referring to surrealist painter René Magritte’s “The Treachery of Pictures” (1929). The portray depicts a pipe underlined with the phrase Çeci n’est pas une pipe (I’ve been agonizing over shapes; Magritte’s appears to be like closest to the half-bent billiard form). Sadly, Demeter already had a perfume by that title. The idea of treachery niggled nonetheless, a symbolism which haunted Shawn. What if a darkish leathery gourmand was composed of hedonistic indulgences – the type which, when taken in extra – do little to increase one’s longevity? All of the issues we like which make existence pleasant and harmful when exaggerated…moderation be damned. Down the rabbit gap he went and I adopted go well with.
La Corde Wise” by René Magritte (1960)
Seeking sweetness and light-weight? Look elsewhere. Treacle is verboten; these are shadowy delights, extra intense and full-bodied. Merely since you see candy almond listed doesn’t render Treachery sticky with heliotropin or cotton-candy candy due to vanilla absolute. These are aromatic accents; the vanilla is sufficiently woody and slightly soiled in addition to. Cocoa suggests darkest chocolate, not milk or white (what IS white chocolate, anyway???). If there are berry nuances they function piquant, energetic taste zings inferred, not cudgeled. Not actually a pipe tobacco, Shawn takes a beautiful tobacco absolute, seasons generously with labdanum and burnishes it with saffron for artful seduction. Oakwood teases us down the Highland malt path (I’m not complaining), with davana contributing her personal model of dried fruit balsamic booziness. Candy spices mild the deeper, moodier supplies with delicate grace. This beautiful willful fragrance is as layered as an onion because it unfolds seamlessly in its personal serpentine style.
Discovery by René Magritte (1927)
Treachery isn’t any light-weight performer; it has astonishing longevity (even by way of a number of hand washings) and creates a robust pressure subject surrounding the wearer. I dabbed, and it lasted over 14 hours! It’s sure to be a should go-to for cool climes – however I’m curious to see the way it behaves in heat climate. Finest to dose accordingly with this potent potion.
Notes: tobacco absolute, labdanum, cocoa, vanilla absolute, davana, whiskey, spices, saffron, berries, candy almond, oakwood absolute.
Pattern supplied by the perfumer – many thanks, Shawn! My nostril is my very own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Pure Perfumery Editor
Maher Olfactive Treachery
Because of the generosity of Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive, we’re in a position to provide an advance bottle of Treachery which launches July 18, 20202 for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please depart a remark explaining what appeals to you about Ida’s assessment and the place you reside. Do you’ve gotten a favourite Chatillon Lux or Maher Olfactive fragrance? Draw closes 6/20/20
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