Although Doxa can hint its historical past again to 1889, its rise in prominence (no less than in Western markets) can undoubtedly be traced to the now-iconic orange-faced Sub 300T strapped to the wrists of Jacque Cousteau and the Calypso divers. That broad cushion case, small dial, diver’s bezel with built-in no-decompression dive time calculator, and beads-of-rice bracelet featured on the Sub 300T, and different skilled divers in Doxa’s lineup, have develop into synonymous with the model. No shock, then, that the discharge of the Doxa Sub 200 at Baselworld 2019 took many Doxa followers abruptly.
The Sub 200 is a way more accessible watch, each by way of worth and elegance, than watches just like the Sub 300T, coming in at roughly half the worth and that includes an on-trend classic aesthetic that’s executed (virtually) flawlessly. In fact, there have been some grumblings from the Doxa die-hards that the Sub 200 was an excessive amount of of a departure for the model. Personally, I feel that argument is a bit ridiculous. Positive, Doxa is greatest identified for its skilled dive watches, no less than in North America, however the model has a protracted historical past and huge, numerous catalog (simply take a flick through Doxa’s web site for Asian markets). The Doxa Sub 200 attracts from that archive, producing a vintage-inspired diver that would have been plucked from the halcyon days of scuba diving’s golden period.
The Doxa Sub 200 is out there in a variety of colorways, from the basic orange “Skilled” to the turquoise “Aquamarine.” I’m reviewing what’s, undoubtedly, essentially the most conservative colorway of the bunch, the black-dialed “Sharkhunter.” The mannequin title is one thing of a misnomer contemplating that Doxa Watches are advocates for shark conservation (see their co-branded SUB 1200T Undertaking Conscious). Although the black and cream colorway could also be conservative within the SUB 200 lineup, this classic diver is by no means missing in character or allure.
The Doxa Sub 200 case is waterproof as much as 200m, constructed from 316-L stainless-steel, and measures in at 42mm in diameter with a brief 46mm lug-to-lug distance and 19mm lug width (significantly, Doxa?). That 42mm diameter is a bit misleading, although, for the reason that brief lugs, coupled with a bezel width that’s barely smaller than the case, give the Sub 200 a dusting of the Seiko magic that makes the Sub 200 put on smaller and extra comfortably than its measurement would recommend. I’d say it wears extra like 40mm on my 6.75” wrist. Since this watch arrived within the mail for evaluation, it’s hardly left my wrist, and although the aesthetics actually play an enormous half in desirous to strap it on within the morning, the size, match, and luxury preserve it on my wrist all day. It’s the kind of watch that’s straightforward to simply seize and put on, understanding it’s going to go together with virtually something in my wardrobe, stand as much as no matter these summer season days might throw at it, and be comfy on my wrist all day.
The case dimensions are nice, and the consolation is superb, however the traces of the case are what actually make the watch pop. The precise case form is conservative (by Doxa requirements), however the brushed mid-case with a large, high-polish sloping bevel operating from lug-end to lug-end offers the watch a refined, completed look that additionally helps scale back the visible heft of the 42mm case. It’s a stunning case, with ending that belies its worth.
Protecting with the classic theme, the SUB 200 foregoes crown guards and as an alternative makes use of a stout, screw-down crown that’s barely inset into the mid-case. The crown is signed with a painted Doxa orange fish emblem — a design alternative I don’t love. I see the place Doxa was coming from since orange is the model’s signature coloration, but it surely doesn’t work on this colorway or, I might argue, another colorway than the orange “Skilled” mannequin. It’s straightforward to disregard and isn’t noticeable on the wrist, but it surely stays a head-scratcher.
Transferring on to the dial, the “Sharkhunter” colorway incorporates a black dial and bezel with creamy, off-white “fauxtina” markers and fingers. For some, using faux-aged lume goes to be an prompt turn-off, however, at this level, I view using faux-aged lume as merely a special colorway and one which works effectively on a vintage-inspired piece. The Tremendous-LumiNova used on the SUB200 fingers and markers is enough, however that’s about it, and the lume on the bezel markings is weak and short-lived.
Hour markers are utilized with high-polish surrounds which might be a super complement to the handset. It’s the little issues that make or break a dial, and the marker sizes, hand lengths, and total proportions are spot-on. The one jarring factor is the white date window. It’s a stark distinction to the comfortable, creamy tones that dominate the dial. Although the minute markers, dial textual content, and body of the date window are true white, the date wheel nonetheless comes throughout as too stark a distinction. I might have most popular a black date window with white textual content. A no-date choice would additionally go well with this watch and preserve the symmetry and classic fashion.
Field sapphire crystals that mimic the acrylic crystals of classic watches have develop into extraordinarily common over the previous few years, driving the neo-retro watch wave. Nevertheless, not all field sapphire crystals are created equal. Some find yourself with a lot distortion that the watch must be seen head-on to learn the time. The Doxa crystal is one thing particular; it stays legible and immediately readable at virtually all angles with simply the slightest distortion when seen at an indirect angle to present it the heat and allure that’s so interesting in acrylic crystals. It’s exceptionally well-done. Complementing that stunning crystal is a 120-click bezel with a sapphire insert and lumed markers — a superb alternative that extends the black and cream coloration scheme, offering a unified look.
Powering the Doxa SUB 200 is the tried-and-true ETA 2824-2 automated motion that incorporates a 38-hour energy reserve, date perform, 25 jewels, beats at 28.8kbph, and has a customized adorned rotor hidden away behind the stable caseback. I’ve nothing in any respect to complain about with the motion — it’s the precise alternative at this worth level and may run with out hassle for years.
The beads-of-rice bracelet is a trademark of Doxa’s skilled divers, and the look is spot-on for the classic diver aesthetic of the Sub 200. Had Doxa opted for an easier, three-link bracelet on this piece, the SUB 200 would have been straightforward to miss as one other classic diver in a roiling sea of faux-lumed throwback items, however the bracelet completes the look and makes the watch immediately recognizable as a Doxa. Positive, the high-polish middle hyperlinks are a bit blingy and the bracelet itself is a loud, funky look, so it received’t be for everybody. However should you admire the aesthetic, you’ll love the bracelet on the wrist, because the small hyperlinks end in glorious articulation and a buttery really feel on the wrist. I can’t see switching away from the bracelet on this piece. High marks for consolation and the bracelet completes the look of the watch. That mentioned, there’s additionally a rubber strap choice that integrates seamlessly with the case. Sadly, shopping for one as an additional choice to enhance the bracelet will set you again $250.
That’s to not say that every one is roses with the bracelet. There are a few points. First, and this can be a minor one, the top hyperlinks are brief and stubby, so once they meet the case, the top hyperlinks look undersized, as they don’t circulation with the highest of the lugs. I acquired over this shortly and chalked it as much as a design quirk. My solely actual criticism is the stamped clasp. It’s completely purposeful and has micro-adjust holes, so it really works as anticipated. Nevertheless, on the $1000 worth level, we’re seeing many manufacturers step up their clasp recreation, providing stable, milled clasps and on-the-fly micro-adjust. The clasp doesn’t take away from my enjoyment of the piece and it might be argued that the stamped clasp is extra applicable on a vintage-inspired diver, however I nonetheless would have most popular one thing extra stable.
With regards to alternate options, there’s no scarcity of neo-vintage divers in the marketplace. For example, you might go for one of many watches that was on the forefront of the present retro diver craze, the Oris Divers 65. Accessible in a wide selection of colorways, dial choices, sizes, and case supplies, the Divers 65 is a tough watch to miss and lots of fashions provide a extra basic, subdued aesthetic — albeit at virtually double the worth. On the marginally extra inexpensive facet, the Baltic Aquascaphe has the same classic aesthetic, is available in a barely smaller 39mm case, and options lots of the charming attributes that make the SUB 200 so interesting, together with the sapphire bezel, double-domed field sapphire crystal, and even a beads-of-rice bracelet, for a number of hundred dollars much less. Or you might check out choices from Chrisopher Ward, Seiko, Longines, Yema, Lorier …the record goes on.
Although there are many choices on the subject of vintage-inspired divers, there’s actually nothing fairly just like the Doxa Sub 200. It’s an extremely interesting choice on the $1000 worth level for anybody in search of a flexible, enjoyable, vintage-inspired diver. And, should you’re wanting so as to add some coloration to your assortment, the Sub 200 lineup has you lined. The case execution is superb, the watch is a pleasure on the wrist, and it comes from a model with a storied historical past in diving. And for many who aren’t fairly prepared to make the leap (each financially and aesthetically) into Doxa’s now-classic skilled divers, the Sub 200 is a Doxa for the remainder of us. The Doxa Sub 200 retails for $990. Extra info may be discovered at doxawatches.com.
Crucial Knowledge
>Model: Doxa
>Mannequin: Sub 200 “Sharkhunter”
>Worth: $990
>Measurement: 42mm-wide, 14mm-thick, 46mm lug-to-lug, 19mm lug-width
>When reviewer would personally put on it: Nearly anytime, but it surely’s arduous to beat as a sporty summer season watch.
>Pal we’d advocate it to first: Anybody who appreciates that aesthetics of classic divers and is in search of a cool however versatile watch from a model with a storied historical past in diving.
>Finest attribute of watch: On-point classic styling, glorious case execution, and the beads-of-rice bracelet.
>Worst attribute of watch: Weak lume, 19mm lugs, and stamped clasp.
