Because the watch retail panorama continues to quickly evolve following all of the societal terraforming we’ve skilled in 2020, it’s turning right into a foot race for a lot of luxurious watch names to launch their very own e-commerce platforms. The most recent to get itself to this goal in the US is Zenith, which is celebrating its new platform for the territory by providing up a boutique-exclusive El Primero Defy 21 rendered in full ceramic. Now, it’s value declaring two issues: firstly, this isn’t a brand new watch — Zenith launched it final summer season when it was out there completely inside its brick-and-mortar boutique community. And secondly, Zenith has had e-commerce for its full assortment already up and operating in Europe, the place collectors received first crack on the white-hot Manufacture Version introduced earlier this 12 months. What makes this specific launch distinctive is that that is the primary time Zenith is making what would in any other case be a boutique-exclusive out there for on-line buy, and it’ll be collectors in the US with unique entry.
Specs
Model: Zenith
Mannequin: El Primero Defy 21 Boutique Version (ref. 49.9001.9004)
Dimensions: 44mm-wide x 14mm-thick
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Case Materials: Black ceramic
Crystal/Lens: Domed sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflective therapy
Motion: El Primero 9004 computerized (Time-Lab Chronometer Licensed)
Frequency: 36,00zero VpH (5 Hz)
Energy Reserve: 50 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Black rubber strap with textured Cordura-style floor fitted to double-folding DLC-coated titanium clasp
Worth & Availability: $13,600, restricted to 250 items
To be truthful, although the tremendous spectacular El Primero 9004 1/100th chronograph motion seen by way of each the entrance and the again of the watch ought to be the main focus right here, I’ve lengthy contended that the Defy 21 is probably essentially the most woefully under-appreciated fashionable watch out there proper now. Serving as a platform for Zenith’s newest ending applied sciences and idea actions, the Defy 21 accommodates each completely, with its daring strains and up to date proportions. The latter is essential, although, because the 44mm case is actually lugless, measuring solely 50mm high to backside with a fitted strap that drops straight down. Given the complication tucked inside, it’s a markedly wearable and intensely well-executed case design that takes the circle-in-a-square idea from Zenith’s personal classic A384 case and re-imagines it for the 21st century, an period after which the watch is appropriately named.
And so far as modernity goes, the Defy 21 case has seen all of it: from chrome steel and bead-blasted titanium to an unique solid carbon with a Tremendous-LumiNova-impregnated bezel (sure. actually.) So, in relation to ceramic, it’s hardly essentially the most unique case materials anymore, with most any severe luxurious model providing some sort of full ceramic possibility. Nevertheless, there are only a few manufacturers ending them to the diploma flaunted to the extent on this Defy 21. Right here, the Defy’s sharply polished bevels and flat surfaces are sandwiched by a elegant vertical brushing that’s each bit as industrial as it’s luxurious. The alternating finishes decide up mild from most any angle, forming a dynamic body for the brilliant blue motion bridges seen by way of the entrance of the watch, yielding a vibrant sporting expertise that’s fairly atypical of what one would anticipate of a black-cased watch.
However again to the motion for a second — which is, like a lot of Zenith’s non-standard chronograph actions, a super-impressive staple for the Defy 21 assortment. Should you’re new to the Calibre 9004, it’s a high-frequency, 1/100th second chronograph with two separate escapements to manipulate its a number of frequency speeds: 50 Hz for the chronograph, and 5 Hz for the three timekeeping palms. Its chronometer accuracy is licensed by TIMELAB — an unbiased regulatory company with a stricter set of requirements than what we’ve come to anticipate from COSC. Activating the chronograph pusher at 2:00 begins the frenzied motion of the center-mounted seconds counter, which completes a single rotation across the dial each second, measuring hundredths of a second which may be learn alongside the chapter ring encircling the perimeter of the dial.
Given how a lot vitality an extremely high-frequency motion like this could require, an influence reserve at 12:00 lets you understand how a lot juice stays within the chronograph’s mainspring, which may run for round 50 minutes on a full wind by way of the crown. Fortunately, with out operation of the power-hungry chronograph, the watch can run autonomously for round 50 hours – which is greater than acceptable for a high-frequency computerized. Finishing the dial is a operating seconds indicator at 9:00, a 60-second totalizer at 6:00 and a 30-minute totalizer at three:00 — all of which is a bit overwhelming with all of the skeletonization, however it’s a good value to pay for the visible delight of the blued bridges, and significantly extra legible as soon as you recognize what you’re on the lookout for.
As soon as once more, the worth of the Zenith El Primero Defy 21 Boutique Unique is $13,600, and it’s restricted to 250 items. You possibly can study extra and order yours proper now at zenith-watches.com.
