Ulysse Nardin might be some of the storied conventional watchmakers, each when it comes to its distant and up to date historical past. The corporate has produced obligatory marine chronometer clocks for ship navigation (together with for the U.S. Navy) previous to digital timing and communication instruments and, extra not too long ago, it was the beloved artistic house of the late Rolf Schnyder (who handed in 2011), who, beginning within the 1980s made Ulysse Nardin some of the fascinating and dynamic luxurious Swiss watchmakers of recent instances. After his loss of life, the Le Locle, Switzerland-based firm was bought by the Kering Group of luxurious manufacturers (that additionally owns corporations resembling Gucci and Girard-Perregaux) and now, beneath the management of Patrick Pruniaux, the corporate is creating an excellent newer character that mixes the superb heritage of the watchmaker with a sustainable enterprise mannequin appropriate for a world viewers. For the final a number of years, it has been completely fascinating to see the trajectory Ulysse Nardin has taken with a few of its extra unique merchandise. That stated, there are additionally its extra conservative, daily-wear luxurious sports activities watches which can be a staple of what as we speak’s watch lovers are likely to desire. Let’s check out the simply-named Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm, right here reviewed because the reference 1503-170-Three/92 in titanium with the black dial.
These acquainted with Ulysse Nardin will acknowledge the fundamental form and theme of this watch as having been a part of Ulysse Nardin’s bigger “Marine” assortment. That time period is now used for different model merchandise, and the Diver Chronograph is given a easy, and maybe too-direct, title. What I actually like in regards to the Diver Chronograph is that it focuses extra on being a high-performance software than being a “take a look at me” luxurious watch — though it actually has some distinctive visible options. The “software watch” method works as a result of it implies that, from most angles, every thing in regards to the Diver Chronograph watch is performance and function.
The case itself is in very finely machine titanium, and measures 44mm-wide by about 15mm-thick with an affordable roughly 50mm lug-to-lug distance. That offers the piece a boldness on the wrist, however I’ve by no means felt that it’s bigger than it must be, and it wears very comfortably within the rubber strap. I additionally like that Ulysse Nardin opted for a easy strap with a conventional pin buckle. There’s after all the steel “hyperlink” within the decrease strap, which is a part of Ulysse Nardin model DNA, however in any other case, it is a very discreet and cozy strap. That is contrasted with some watches at this value level that use generally complicated, and sometimes cumbersome deployant clasps. A lot of these might be fascinating, however in my view, they typically add extra fuss and measurement than what they provide in every day consolation and practicality.
Over the dial is a domed sapphire crystal with AR-coating on each side. The dial is designed for legibility and only a trace of glitz within the type of the polished arms and hour markers. Ulysse Nardin made positive to maintain the dial utilitarian with a matte, textured dial, and easy-to-see-chronograph arms. (Be aware that each the chronograph and primary arms are given luminant for darkness viewing.) Dial symmetry is good with even the date being balanced inside its personal spherical window proper above the 6 o’clock hour marker. Dial textual content is minimized and neatly built-in into locations such because the out seconds scale or inside the chronograph subdials. Whereas at first, the Diver Chronograph dial can seem easy, its refined nature permits it to develop on you after having it in your wrist for some time. I additional admire how Ulysse Nardin was in a position to take the essence of earlier Marine Diver watches but additionally create one thing new that we’ve not seen earlier than for the Diver Chronograph 44mm assortment.
Across the dial is a smooth-acting rotating bezel that has nice audible clicks and whose design once more takes inspiration from conventional Ulysse Nardin Marine watches, but additionally does one thing a bit new. Other than the design of the case itself, the bezel of the Diver Chronograph is what provides this Ulysse Nardin watch its major visible distinctiveness. The chronograph pushers are screw-down, which is a little bit of a retro function, in my estimation. Whereas it is a tried and true technique of getting extra water-resistance in a diver’s chronograph timepiece, I’d wish to see manufacturers transfer in a path the place the chronograph complication doesn’t want screw-down pushers and that may even be totally operated underwater (possibly not all the way down to 300 meters, however not less than 50 or 100 meters). On the left aspect of the watch is a small steel plaque with the timepiece’s serial quantity. This space is used for limited-edition numbers, resembling on the restricted version America-only purple, white, and blue “Hammerhead” reference 1503-170LE-Three/93-HAMMER model of the Diver Chronograph.
Contained in the watch is a implausible motion, the in-house-made Ulysse Nardin caliber UN-150. This motion debuted round 2013 and is the model’s premium computerized 12-hour chronograph motion. The UN-150 is gorgeous to behold and operates at 4Hz (28,800 bpm) with 48 hours of energy reserve. The 322-part motion is individually regulated for efficiency at Ulysse Nardin and likewise advantages from having a silicon escapement for added timing efficiency. Flip the watch over to view the UN-150 motion by the caseback, which helps add a powerful presentation to this luxurious sports activities watch.
The titanium case makes the watch actually really feel gentle on the wrist, which is an efficient factor. Ulysse Nardin additionally options an all 18okay rose gold reference 1502-170-Three/93) model of the Diver Chronograph 44mm that’s practically 4 instances the worth (at $38,500 USD) of this titanium mannequin — and comes with the additional weight of gold besides. That could be a great possibility for individuals who wish to go swimming with a gold watch, however as a software piece I’m unsure that gold is the only option — so, my possibility can be titanium. I believe the actual worth of the Diver Chronograph is a every day put on timepiece in case you stay within the tropics or heat place the place you not solely will sweat quite a bit, but additionally don’t wish to take into consideration swapping out your “good watch” for one thing else while you wish to submerge your self in water. That additionally makes the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph a fantastic “trip” watch if you’re touring to a tropical zone.
Value-wise the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm isn’t low-cost, nevertheless it does match with the model’s present positioning and the timepiece doesn’t skimp on detailing. Value for the reference 1503-170-Three/92 Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm is $11,500 USD. Study extra on the Ulysse Nardin web site right here.
Needed Information
>Model: Ulysse Nardin
>Mannequin: Diver Chronograph 44mm reference 1503-170-Three/92
>Value: $11,500 USD
>Measurement: 44mm-wide, ~15mm-tall, ~50mm lug-to-lug distance.
>When reviewer would personally put on it: When on trip in a tropical place once I wish to put on the identical good watch into the ocean and into the restaurant.
>Buddy we’d suggest it to first: In any other case conservative luxurious watch purchaser who calls for precise efficiency from their sports activities watches. Greatest for these looking for one thing outdoors of the normal manufacturers who needs one thing under-the-radar, however spectacular if inspected by different watch lovers.
>Greatest attribute of watch: A brand new degree of design refinement exhibits that Ulysse Nardin is critical about adopting a few of its quirkier (however cool) designs for a extra mainstream luxurious viewers. Legibility and carrying consolation are very excessive. Nice, in-house-made motion.
>Worst attribute of watch: At first look seasoned watch collectors would possibly discover the general design underwhelming. The watch may additionally use a extra thrilling title. Screw-down pushers really feel like they may very well be modernized a bit to not require screwing and unscrewing to function chronograph safely in moist environments.
