For Geneva Watch Days, Girard-Perregaux simply dropped what could be my favourite watch of theirs in current reminiscence. Carried out in collaboration with Wempe, GP launched a collection of three “Infiinty” collection watches, however the one I’m taken with is the traditional metal Laureato 42mm (there’s a 38mm with diamond bezel, as nicely). Restricted to 188 items, the Laureato Infinity encompasses a collection of design selections that each bolsters and exhibits a recent facet of the gathering.
The Laureato was reintroduced again in 2016 as a restricted version run, with the usual manufacturing assortment arriving a yr later. I’ve discovered the Laureato to be an actual sleeper gem within the luxurious sports activities watch class, however I’ve a sense these 188 Infinity items shall be scooped up fairly rapidly as a result of that Onyx dial is simply killer even with the couple further thousand premium over the usual mannequin.
The black onyx dial with pink gold indices creates one thing that may’t be faked: temper. I take a look at it and see the dial the trendy Laureato ought to have all the time had, and never solely as a result of it distinguishes itself from Nautilus/Royal Oaks of the world. There’s a magnificence to the dial’s stark simplicity, like a deep black mirror, matched with the stylized octagonal bezel and case. To my sensibilities, it’s excellent. I can’t say that I’m too conversant in how onyx is labored and handled, however I do know that it’s not the simplest materials to work with, which is plausible when you think about how not often it’s really utilized in watchmaking. In truth, the entire Infinity collection is distinctive just by its use of the fabric. On working with onyx, Girard-Perregaux says “The black onyx used for the dial attracts on the experience of time-served craftspeople who form and polish the fabric by hand. Creating skinny dials from onyx requires no fewer than 15 completely different operations…”
The date window seems to nearly be absorbed into the sleek, lustrous dial. The attraction isn’t merely the novelty of the onyx, as a result of it’s really fairly refined however actively contributes to and enhances all of the points of a terrific dial.
I used to be initially reticent in regards to the two-tone dial, with the rhodium-plated hour and minute arms and pink-gold seconds hand and utilized indices. Now, I admire it as an offbeat design selection that I’ve progressively grown keen on. In truth, imagining all the things on the dial in pink gold would make it seem random and arbitrary. Reasonably, the hour and minute arms echo the metal case (and dial textual content, serving to create cohesion.
Apart from some textual content on the case again, the case, built-in bracelet, and motion are all equivalent to the usual Laureato. I feel that’s a smart transfer, really, although some refined onyx design contact or embellishment on the motion might have helped elevate the general piece.
I’ve to confess that I used to be briefly excited once I noticed the primary pictures of the Laureato Infinity, because it had the stability bridge emblem versus the “1791”, maybe hoping it was a nod to a motion with a stability bridge. That’s clearly not the case, although the GP1800 is a well-regarded veteran. That includes a pink-gold rotor, it operates at 28,800 vph and has a 54-hour energy reserve. The slim three.97mm top of the GP1800 permits for the Laureato to have a slim 10.7mm case thickness.
The octagonal bezel, handsomely completed 100M water resistant case, and wonderfully made built-in bracelet make for a wonderful basis for the Infinity collection design. It’s definitely my favourite of the three fashions that Girard-Perregaux launched. Restricted to 188 items, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity 42mm is priced at $13,200. You’ll be able to be taught extra at girard-perregaux.com.
