Shell cordovan is a cherished materials by many, with its particular traits and sturdiness. Nonetheless, there’s a couple of backsides of cordovan that some may not learn about, which might be good to pay attention to if you’re an aspiring cordovan shoe purchaser.
Cordovans “professionals” are fairly well-known to most, the shine it has, the lengthy lifespan, the best way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), and so forth. The “cons” are extra uncommon to search out data about, when one thing is as hyped as shell cordovan is and has been in current instances. Effectively, Shoegazing is right here to serve you. Particularly if you’re considering ordering your first pair of cordovan footwear, it could possibly be good to learn this by first so that you not solely have one facet of the story, so to talk.
Initially, cordovan is a relatively stiff and thick materials, it’s not as versatile and pliable as most calf leathers which is most typical to make use of for high quality footwear. Some like that sturdiness, whereas some dislike it and have a tough time breaking in corodovan footwear and getting them comfy on account of this, a bit relying on how delicate your toes are.
Unlined cordovan loafers. Image: Alden of San Diego
Secondly, cordovan could be very dense, it doesn’t breath a lot in any respect and doesn’t soak up moisture in the identical method as common leather-based. Particularly if unlined, this may be noticeable. Which makes it a bit complicated that unlined cordovan loafers is sort of widespread, a mannequin that additionally a few of its purchaser’s can’t put on throughout hotter days in any respect. So if you understand that you’ve toes that perspire rather a lot and simply get heat, have this in thoughts, and no less than not purchase cordovan footwear you propose to put on throughout summer time months. Not solely can it turn out to be uncomfortable, I’ve examine individuals who have had insoles cracking relatively shortly as a result of unhealthy breathability of the cordovan footwear and their perspiration breaking down the insole leather-based. The cordovan doesn’t break down on account of it, however different components of the shoe can.
Lastly, it’s price noting that cordovan differs loads relying on from who you buy the footwear, and naturally from which tannery the cordovan comes from. To not complicate issues an excessive amount of, I’ll solely discuss the primary producer Horween right here. What’s good to know is that the cordovan that’s delivered from Horween with its pure floor, could be very delicate to water, and simply will get stained and unhealthy wanting. Some manufacturers makes the footwear with this pure cordovan, some doesn’t.
Pure cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispin’s footwear, after a wet day. Image: PatrickBOOTH / StyleForum
Those that don’t – which incorporates a lot of the massive shoe manufacturers in terms of providing Horween Shell Cordovan footwear, like Alden, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones, Carmina and so forth – treats the cordovan hides themselves to make it face up to moisture and dust higher. How do they do this? Effectively, with a coating consisting of amongst different issues shellac. The precise therapy differs between the manufacturers, which is why the cordovan is skilled as a bit totally different relying on who’ve made the footwear. The aim of the coating and shellac is similar for all although, and it varies if folks discover it problematic with this therapy or not. Additionally coating handled cordovan simply will get water stains and that kind of factor, although to not the identical extent as pure shell, and often a bit simpler to get again to a very good wanting state. However, when you don’t need to deal with your footwear after each encounter with rain, cordovan may not be for you.
Spanish Carmina is without doubt one of the manufacturers who deal with the cordovan to make it face up to rain higher. Image: Carmina (High image: Vcleat)
