The Fragrance Chronicles X The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Andralia Attar Evaluation (Alexandre Helwani and J.Ok.DeLapp) + Inside Backyard Draw

 

The Fragrance Chronicles X The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Andralia Attar by Melissa Wago-Lala

“Stepping right into a Greek monastery after the Divine liturgy. Sullen and solemn but lush and shiny. A tribute to our internal backyard.” ~ J.Ok. DeLapp and Alexandre Helwani

 

J.Ok. DeLapp and Alexandre Helwani consuming espresso picture by way of J.Ok. DeLapp

Final autumn, Alexandre Helwani of The Fragrance Chronicles and ÇaFleureBon Contributor traveled all around the United States, cementing friendships wherever he went. He spent some great time with perfumer and mutual pal John Biebel early on, then stayed with J.Ok. DeLapp of Rising Phoenix Fragrance and his household in Georgia over Thanksgiving. Throughout that go to with J.Ok, they determined to collaborate and collectively compose 100% pure attars – each of which have been formally launched on August 11th of this yr. Alexandre has an ongoing love affair working with and accumulating uncommon and treasured fragrant supplies. He had introduced alongside some fragrances which he had composed; Joseph cherished them, Alex cherished Joseph’s – and the remainder is a fait accompli.

 

The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Andralia and Ambralia attars: picture by Melissa Wago-Lala

After I lately obtained attar samples from The Rising Phoenix Perfumery, the 2 collaborative perfumes have been amongst them (J.Ok. and Alexandre), and I selected The Rising Phoenix Andralia to evaluation as a result of it felt extra complicated and shape-shifting than the Ambralia, (which is a powerful amber within the nice custom). Whereas each attars are listed on J.Ok.’s Etsy store with a nod to classic Caron, Alexandre has since clarified for me that this is applicable solely to Andralia Attar: a perfumer pal smelt it and famous that it smelt “like an previous Caron my mom had” – ergo, the tag “classic Caron”. I occur to like (and have collected) classic Caron perfumes, and I’ve adored attars for years, so my alternative for evaluation was apparent.

 

La Traversée de l’Orient Alexandre Helwani x La Place

Andralia Attar was a fragrance which Alexandre first created when he was invited to carry an exposition in February 2019 at Paris’ ll ͤ arrondissement Galerie La Place entitled: L’Exposition Éphémère –  La Traversée de l’Orient (Ephemeral Exposition, The Oriental Journey). La Place is the artistic brainchild of Virginie Roux (Inventive Director of Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger perfumes) and companion Emmanuel Pierre (architect, inside designer and artwork collector): a significant pop-up neighborhood which embraces all the humanities in addition to fragrance, a dynamic scented salon

Alexandre studying sacred texts by way of Instagram

Alexandre had held incense preparation lessons there; throughout his presentation of three totally different non secular visages of historic perfumery, he additionally offered consultant medieval music, chants, prayers and spoken texts (Alex additionally sings medieval music!). A borrowed fragrance relic (on mortgage from a bishop), incense burners and paraphernalia from his personal assortment have been on show, together with his personal pictures and fragrance organ of rarities.

 

element BBC The Coronation (2018) recipe for Coronation Oil

Andralia was initially generally known as Bogoroditsa – an Orthodox (Church Slavonic) identify for the Holy Mom of G-d. Its identify derives from each Greek and Hebrew: the Greek andra refers to humanity, and Hebrew aliyah to ascent: Ascent In the direction of Humanity. Of the 4 perfumes he composed, Andralia proved to be the most well-liked – a shock to Alexandre, because it was essentially the most quirky (his time period, not mine) of the lot. It’s based mostly upon a centuries-old components for Holy Chrism, aka consecrated anointing oil. The 14th century Orthodox Christian recipe is comprised of anyplace from 38 to 57 fragrant elements ready (boiled) over three days in an olive oil base; wine is often included as nicely – and prayers are sung or recited through the course of. Alexandre’s receipt was obtained by means of a monk. Whereas there are quite a few formulae (most are saved secret), a type of the Chrism is used to crown the regents of England: it consists of each sesame and olive oil, roses, orange flowers, jasmine, cinnamon, benzoin, musk, civet and ambergris.

It took a number of mods for Alexandre to succeed in an approachable approximation of the unique components – after which he proceeded to focus on a chypre construction. When it was accomplished, J.Ok felt that Andralia would make an exquisite attar; the receipt remained the identical, and what started as fragrance extrait assumed the type of an attar as an alternative.

Incense burning by way of Alexandre

At first, Rising Phoenix Perfumery Andralia Attar smells divine, as if somebody had flung open a door to the previous and let in a rush of latest breath, mingling the earthly with the sacred. It’s a fragrance of contrasts, replete with beckoning seductive florals comparable to tuberose and ylang-ylang, all buttery and indolic. First, the crispness of bergamot, a ray of illumination; then mild rose and natural/floral geranium glow beside the innocence of German chamomile with its haylike tones. Violet provides its grassy tenderness, flush with ionones which distantly echo the rose. Osmanthus initially smells juicy as an apricot, then melds with intense shadowy parts comparable to labdanum, oakmoss and Laotian oud to impact a leathery texture, offset by the dissimilar animalic nature of beeswax, ambrette and ambergris.

Jan and Hubert van Eyck’s Ghent Altarpiece 1432 public area

The enlivening facet of cypress is a pleasure, chanting its resinous deeply inexperienced chorus tinged with wooden smoke and redolent of ambergris; paired with the queen of sandalwoods it imparts a consecrated feeling to the composition, ceremonial in character and dignified. It’s a stunning marriage of opposing forces lain collectively, because the lion with the lamb.

Notes: geranium, violet, bergamot, blue chamomile, rose, osmanthus, tuberose absolute, ylang-ylang, Laotian oud, beeswax, ambrette Co2, moss, cypress absolute, labdanum, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood oil

Samples offered by JK DeLapp – I like them!  My nostril is my very own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Pure Perfumery Editor

 

 Andralia Attar by Melissa Wago-Lala

Due to the generosity of Joseph DeLapp of The Rising Phoenix Perfumery we have now two 1ml bottle of Andralia Attar for 2 registered readers, one within the USA (register right here) and depart a remark with what you loved about Ida’s evaluation of The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Andralia Attar. Draw closes 9/11/2020

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