When it involves impartial watchmakers, you’ve received two kinds of manufacturers. On the one hand, there’s a gaggle of “me too” manufacturers which have studied the trade extensively and imagine they will do the identical factor, however higher. And by higher, I imply higher in any facet, from design and mechanics to a easy worth proposition. Then, you’ve received the individuals who have dismissed the crushed monitor as boring and left it behind in favor of a cliff face. Gustafsson & Sjögren, or GoS because the model is usually styled, is one such model. One artisan, one horologist, and one large thought are accountable for this beguiling feat of alchemy that has resulted in a variety of stylistically distinct watches which might be unlikely to take a seat on anybody’s fence. Launched in 2016 and named after a nationwide park within the model’s native Sweden, the Sarek mannequin is a well-liked mainstay within the GoS assortment. This newest version, for ladies, sees one thing fairly rattling cool pop up on the dial. The Gustafsson & Sjögren Sarek Glacier and Sarek Sundown watches each characteristic luminous mother-of-pearl dials. Yeah, actually.
The imagery these frankly weird dials try to recall is obvious. The Northern Lights are world well-known and one of many Nordic lands’ most famed sights, however simply as nuanced and exquisite are the autumn sunsets. Right here, GoS pays homage to each. In the event you’ve recovered from the comprehensible shock of luminous mother-of-pearl, enable me to clarify how this impact has been achieved. Fairly merely, the slither of mother-of-pearl is skinny sufficient to permit mild to cross by it and be picked up by a layer of strong luminant set behind the dial. Whereas this makes excellent sense, the ensuing mild present does appear remarkably vivid. After all, the attraction in these dials is the pure variations of the MoP materials, however the talent in getting this idea should come all the way down to its appropriate sourcing. I can barely think about what number of dials fail to make the grade.
Gustafsson & Sjögren watches usually come on an elk-leather strap, however the model is now providing options. Whereas the precise nature of the options isn’t specified, it seems that GoS is joyful to work with the client to discover a strap that matches the watch and the client’s style. As noticed by the model itself, these Sarek watches look a bit of extra at residence on a tapered, dressier, and even glossier strap than the traditional GoS output would. The strap is mounted by a Swiss-made deployant.
The presentation “field” is a wor of artwork in itself. A Swedish crystal dome manufactured by Vas Vitreum, a family-owned firm run by the fourth and fifth generations of glassworkers. It’s designed to offer each safety and show, nevertheless it appears much better suited to the latter. In truth, one thing about these watches would encourage me to show them on the shelf extra usually than the wrist. The chapter ring styling is, for instance, impressed by the design of a standard viking brooch, however historic design cues pop up everywhere in the piece, giving it the looks of a valuable, and in some way anachronistic, artifact.
Whereas caseback pictures are restricted, it’s clear to see that the rotor, which contains a German silver counterweight, is a deal with. What’s notably good about pairing the Soprod A10 motion (which is successfully an ETA 2892 clone primarily based on the Seiko 4L, however a fairly good high quality one) with this case is how properly the motion fills the accessible inside house.
The Gustafsson & Sjögren Sarek Glacier and Sarek Sundown watches measure simply 31.5mm throughout (40mm lug-to-lug), and simply 9mm-thick. The Soprod A10 is 25.6mm-wide, leaving lower than 3mm for the case partitions. The ensuing 50 meters of water resistence is, subsequently, fairly respectable, however since these are clearly not watches for use throughout exercise, the emphasis on visuals must be applauded.
I’ve by no means discovered Gustafsson & Sjögren’s merchandise one thing I might put on myself, as they’re extremely colourful and attention-grabbing for an aestheitc ostentation that jarrs with my grittier, utilitarian tastes, however I’ve by no means had something however respect for the model’s makes an attempt to do one thing completely different. And my trustworthy feeling is that ladies’s watches of this sort is perhaps their quick lane.
Sure, the actions used aren’t going to win any awards for the model, however the customization is considerate and properly executed, whereas the general styling stays female however another way from that of most different manufacturers. And not using a diamond in sight, these new Sarek watches current a geunine various in ladies’s timepieces. The bezel is crafted from stainless damascus metal from the masters at Damasteel in Söderfors Sweden earlier than being formed and completed within the GoS workshop. The result’s an individuality and energy to this design that is aware of its personal character and, find it irresistible or detest it, nobody can accuse it of piggybacking on the competitors’s success. These watches will retail for $eight,500 (plus relevant taxes). Though not restricted per se, each watch can be engraved with 1/1 due to the distinctive nature of the Mom of Pearl dial and damascus metal bezel. goswatchs.com