That is half two of the large walkthrough of all competitors sneakers within the World Championships in Shoemaking 2019. Right here place 11 to 40 is reviewed with feedback and footage.
Weblog put up within the phrases of Jesper Ingevaldsson of Shoegazing Weblog
Pt.1 with extra information in regards to the contest and positions 1-10 might be discovered right here.
Outcomes (click on on maker/model to go on to abstract):
11. Dettagli D`Autore
12. Yim Shoemaker
13. Perticone – Seiichi Yoshimoto
14. EuGo
15. Athanase Sephocle
16. Kiyo
17. Lu Yang
18. Fumiya Ando
19. Barbavitra Shoemaker
20. Sergey Grechushkin
21. Naoki Sugimoto
22. Reid Elrod
23. Masachika Morita
24. Oh Sang Jun
25. Rozsnyai Handmade Footwear
26. Valentin Frunza
27. Tomohiro Inamori
28. Jan Buda
29. Lawart
30. Alexey Sod
31. Andrey Kaveshnikov
32. Taichi Shimizu
33. Ivan Beneath
34. The Final Shoemaker
35. Mikhail Burov
36. Masami Ishizuka
37. Francesco Masci
38. Batyr Bikbulatov
39. Thivakaran
40. Sebastian Makowski
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11. Dettagli D’Autore
A bit chunkier, but actually refined.
Dettagli D’Autore was born in 2019, within the coronary heart of the Italian shoemaking area of Marche, Montegranaro, from the collaboration between a designer Giulio Giacinti (who made the final and sample of the shoe) and shoemaker Bogdan Paul Betianu (who did the underside making), that they had assist from Giacomo Mezzabotta who did the higher and the corporate Maximoda who did the brass toe faucet. The shoe is a effective instance of shoemaking, with not least extraordinarily effective sole stitching, and a heel constructed from many tremendous skinny layers of leather-based.
Sole with very slim waist and properly brass nail adorned heel.
Profile view.
Very tight sole stitching, sadly didn’t have the likelihood to measure the precise spi.
Heel constructed of very skinny layers with a special design of the higher edge.
Fairly traditional final form.
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12. Yim Shoemaker
Seems like a sports activities automotive.
Chinese language Grey Yim, who runs Yim Shoemaker, has made a reputation of himself first by way of a collaboration with Japanese agency Hobu, later by way of his personal Instagram. Aggressive final shapes and making is what most recognise him for, which can be evident on the planet championship entry. It’s a terrific shoe, with good options just like the cuban heel, tight sole stitching and a stunning trying sole. It has some minor setbacks within the execution, and acquired barely much less on design possible as a result of a little bit of an unbalance, however general a really good entry.
A really attractive backside, so clear and well-made.
Fiddle again waist.
A bit heavy in the direction of the entrance, maybe not completely balanced final and sample.
One in every of fairly few cuban heels (when they’re concave, not solely tapering).
High view, the place the spade sole form comes to point out.
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13. Perticone – Seiichi Yoshimoto
Plenty of decorations on this effective instance of a full brogue.
Perticone, or Seiichi Yoshimoto, a Japanese shoemaker primarily based in Italy, was positioned 18th in final years contest. This yr he’s discovered 5 locations up, with a really good entry. Seiichi Yoshimoto has accomplished all elements of the shoe besides the higher closing, which has been made by Pina (ITALIANA). It’s a shoe with plenty of decorations, blended sorts of brogeing, punched decorations on sides and again, wheel marked sole, and so forth.
Properly adorned sole.
Streamlined final form.
Fairly neat sole stitching.
The closing of the higher has some small errors right here and there.
Squared toe.
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14. EuGo
An impressed shoe.
One other climber, final years 23rd positioned is now up at 14th place. EuGo is the model of Yeruult Gombosed from Mongolia. He splits the time between Mongolia, the place he has his euGo model, and San Francisco within the US, the place he collaborates with American bootmaker Frank Beneducci. Plenty of effort has clearly been put into this shoe, with some attractive elements just like the golden lining and accompanying toe and heel plates. Making is of a extremely good degree, whereas the issue is okay however not particular.
Beautiful work right here.
Precision.
The gold shining from the entrance, again and higher elements of the shoe seems to be actually good from this angle.
High view.
Golden lining.
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15. Athanase Sephocle
A shoe with authority.
It is a actually well-built shoe, scored excessive on execution, a bit much less on issue and design. With that stated, Athanase Sephocle who’s a backside maker working for Berluti in France, have made some fairly sophisticated elements, particularly the lifted center a part of the only real and the very tight nail sample within the heel. It’s that kind of backside which you could stand taking a look at admiring for a very long time. Athanase made all elements besides the higher making, which was accomplished by Sarah Verlac.
Such a pleasant sole and heel.
To make this properly formed elevation shouldn’t be simple.
Fairly stable look.
Fairly traditional full brogue sample, aside from the higher dealing with.
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16. Kiyo
Very conventional tackle the complete brogue oxford.
Kiyo, or Kiyo Uda as is his full title, is a bespoke shoemaker primarily based in Tokyo. He does some MTO, MTM and bespoke underneath his personal title, and likewise outwork for different companies. The shoe is made solely by him. It’s a really conventional shoe, with sq. outdoors waist and a primary sample. The closing and making is completely effective, though you’ll find areas that aren’t 100%, just like the heel with a bit uneven lifts and a sligthly flimsy sole edge at some locations. Good shoe, however a bit plain.
Additionally the underside may be very conventional.
Right here you possibly can see a few the areas the place there may be room for enchancment, the heel and sole edge on the waist which are a bit uneven.
Clear good work right here.
Final with mushy sq. toe.
Neat closing.
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17. Lu Yang
Particular designed shoe.
One other Chinese language contestant, Lu Yang is a bespoke shoemaker, who’ve made all elements of the shoe, whereas Jiao Yang made the design. It was a bit debated within the jury if it had been to be seen as correct brogueing, however we determined to go away it with no deduction of factors. It’s a fairly cool shoe, maybe not completely balanced, and the diploma of issue is larger than the extent of the execution. Tremendous slim waist with particularly an out of doors half that goes in lengthy, provides the shoe a particular character.
Very slim waist.
Arrow formed heel.
From above.
You get a little bit of a cowboy boot really feel when trying on the shoe in profile.
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18. Fumiya Ando
A comparatively spherical model.
Japanese maker Fumiya Ando managed to snap a fifth place in final yr’s world championships, this yr he’s discovered a bit additional down. It’s nonetheless an excellent entry he provides us this yr, little doubt a bout it, each the making and issue degree is sweet, although not on the absolute highest degree. The aesthetics of the shoe additionally seems a bit off, with a bulkier entrance half clashing a bit towards a slim, elegant again a part of the shoe. Fumiya Ando was once an artwork scholar, however has now made sneakers for about 4 years, so fairly new on this sport.
Clear and traditional.
Right here you possibly can see how the front and back elements of the shoe doesn’t actually go collectively aesthetically.
Very tapered, elegant heel., with some seen lighter areas between a few of the heel lifts.
Very good work right here.
Quick toe, lengthy vamp.
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19. Barbavitra Shoemaker
One other tremendous traditional full brogue.
Barbavitra Shoemaker is the model of one other Japanese, Yasuhiro Koui. He has made the entire shoe himself. A good looking shoe, traditional type that appears prefer it may come from an outdated British bespoke agency, and likewise well-made. Nothing that basically stands out in both method, however an general degree that present talent. Good elements embrace the right welt ending and the beautiful method the tapered heel continues the form of the again when seen in profile.
The glue from closing the channel has triggered some darker areas on the only real in the direction of the sides, in any other case neat and good.
Basic spherical final form.
Slight fiddle again.
Price mentioning, though it’s not a part of what the jury take a look at, is the leather-based which is a stunning darkish brown color of tremendous good high quality.
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20. Sergey Grechushkin
A streamlined model.
Russian bespoke shoemaker Sergey Grechushkin, who run the model G-shoes, has made a shoe that varies a bit within the degree of the making. Heel and waist work is sweet and really elegantly accomplished and the closing is at an excellent leve, whereas the welt and sole edge ending is a bit coarse and has its flaws. Evgeniy Zelentinov did the design and higher, Sergey Gregushkin did the making.
Plain sole, with a “peach backside”, which is when the only real is just sanded.
High view.
The very skinny waist is obvious from this view.
Almont toe.
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21. Naoki Sugimoto
A “battleship” model of the complete brogue mannequin.
Naoki Sugimoto is certainly one of many unbiased Japanese bespoke shoemakers who work purchase themselves, and the shoe is an effective piece of footwear. Particularly the well-made heel stands out, with the evenly made concave form and with a transparent levelling in the direction of the waist, making it stand alone in good trying method.
Backside is very nice, with an excellent sharp toe.
The heel is among the issues that stand out in the case of the extent of issue, with the slight Cuban heel form, the lifted prime half and the distinct nodge over to the waist edge.
The unfinished inside absolutely eliminated some factors on the execution facet.
Good heel.
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22. Reid Elrod
Cool shoe.
Reid Elrod of Elrod Footwear, a younger shoemaker primarily based in Portland, USA, studied shoemaking in Europe just a few years in the past, and has been working from residence within the US, connecting the European and American shoemaking traditions in a pleasant method. He has some fascinating sample work on this shoe, and elements had been excessive on issue, just like the tight sole stitching.
“Fish bone” decorations.
Tight sole stitching.
The closing of the higher is sweet, however nonetheless some room for enchancment.
Profile view, with the particular heel counter displaying off.
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23. Masachika Morita
A great shoe.
We are actually down on 23rd place, and as evident right here the extent of the sneakers are nonetheless on a excessive degree. This barely particular sample full brogue is made by Japanese Masachika Morita, now primarily based in Italy, who additionally run the model GranGoron. It’s stable shoemaking, and the extent of issue remains to be quite excessive. Aesthetically perhaps not everyones cup of tea with the sharp toe and the excessive toe spring.
Properly completed sole.
Comparatively lengthy toe and excessive toe spring.
Very pointy final.
The nail decorations within the toe had been a bit raised, which seems to be good.
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24. Oh Sang Jun
Barely bulkier look.
Oh Sang Jun is from South Korea, although he discovered to make sneakers in Japan about ten years in the past, whereas now working from his residence nation. His shoe exhibits of some fairly good making general and good options just like the tight sole stitching, close-cut waist edge and so forth. Some minor errors right here and there that took away on the scoreboard.
Had some errors in ending the sting ink, in any other case a extremely clear sole.
Actually tight edge on the waist.
A pleasant element is the totally punched higher of the tongue.
The shoe isn’t completely balanced, with the heel elevating from the bottom within the again.
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25. Rozsnyai Handmade Footwear
A shoe with a number of good design options.
A shoe made by the Hungarian agency Rozsnyai, situated on the identical avenue as different well-known Hungarian manufacturers like Vass, and who make hand welted RTW, MTO and MTM. Good to see this sort of corporations getting into the competition as properly. The shoe is a properly designed one, with numerous “peaks” returning on completely different parts of the shoe, all over the place from the liner and several other locations on the higher toe the breast of the heel and the toe faucet. Sándor Rozsnyai did the sample, Mária Kocsis the higher, and Sándor Blaskó the underside making.
The only real.
The peaks as design component had been use all through the shoe.
High view.
The making was fairly okay, however not probably the most refined.
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26. Valentin Frunza
A shoe that has some cowboy boot really feel about it.
Moldovan shoemaker Valentin Frunza began to be taught shoemaking in his fathers workshop already on the age of 12, and has run his personal model for a few years now. The shoe has some clear influences from cowboy boots, with the toe form and excessive toe spring, the accentuated waist form, and the big brogue holes. Each the extent of issue in addition to the execution is at a greater than first rate degree, whereas a bit plain maybe.
Hour glass formed backside.
Toe.
A excessive toe spring.
Pointy from the highest.
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27. Tomohiro Inamori
Right here a a lot rounder take.
Extra Japanese representatives, Tomohiri Inamori has accomplished the entire shoe himself, a fairly spherical full brogue that will get a barely particular look with the sparse brogueing and small tweaks of a traditional sample. The shoe seems to be higher from above than from beneath, higher, welt and heel making is general fairly good.
Not the cleanest sole ending, and waist not tremendous refined.
Fairly good closing, actually pretty with the contrasting piping on the opening.
The sample clashes a bit between the squarish corners on the quarter and the very mushy rounded vamp edge, whereas it nonetheless handle to look fairly balanced.
Sole stitching and welt ending is well-made.
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28. Jan Buda
A Polish entry.
Jan Buda is a Polish bespoke shoemaker, who has labored for a few years, though considerably underneath the radar for a lot of internationally. He was a bit confused placing collectively his shoe, which is a bit evident, for instance with the comparatively sloppy toe burnishing that makes the fast look lack a bit. One in every of just a few entries with pegged waist. Better part might be the beautiful constructed and completed heel.
Properly balanced backside.
Waist made with pegs of Brazilian Tatajuba wooden, very exhausting carrying.
The toe has a distinctly chiseled prime.
The closing shouldn’t be probably the most refined.
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29. Lawart
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A really bold shoe by the Czech bespoke model Lawart, the place Erik Martin Lawart has made final, sample and making, and Aneta Gretzova made the higher. It’s a totally hand stitched shoe, the place the higher stitching is dense and well-made, which had been half in gaining the sneakers comparatively excessive factors for issue. A bit much less properly on execution, the place there nonetheless is a few strategy to go to be as clear as some larger positioned sneakers, and the design was not totally favored by the jury.
Sole with a bunch of brass nail decorations.
The hand stitched is gorgeous made.
Almond toe final form.
Cute sock lining, additionally hand stitched.
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30. Alexey Sod
Sturdy shoe.
One other bold entry, this shoe is made by Alexey Sod, a Russian bespoke shoemaker figuring out of town Nizhny Tagil. If the higher was the large feat on the earlier shoe, right here it’s the only real stitching, which is at very excessive spi and likewise made to a pleasant degree. Apart from this there’s some good and a few much less good elements, and designwise it comes of as a bit off.
Good ornament within the again, whereas the toe faucet wasn’t to properly accomplished, thick and never flush with the only real.
Profile view, very heavy heel.
Wonderful sole stitching, very tight and really well-made.
High view.
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31. Andrey Kaveshnikov
A shoe with solely single rows of holes, bordering not being a full brogue.
Andrey Kaveshnikov is know underneath the title Moscow Shoemaker on Instagram. It’s a shoe that may be a bit two-faced, with the fairly giant and bulbous toe in distinction with the small, tapered heel. May have been higher balanced. As final yr good sole stitching.
The underside seems to be fairly neat.
Massive in entrance.
Right here you possibly can see how the small, tapered heel doesn’t add up along with the remainder of the shoe.
Seen from beneath although, it seems to be wonderful, with good nail sample.
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32. Taichi Shimizu
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Taichi Shimizu is a Japanese who works as an apprentice for Carlino in Italy. He’s fairly new in shoemaking, which you’ll see on the shoe, the place the execution is a bit shaky. Heel constructing and heel backside ending is sweet, whereas the only real edge and sole ending shouldn’t be on the identical degree. Additionally the higher stitching is different in high quality.
Good heel, much less good sole ending.
Some huge errors of the higher, like the middle of the wingtip, made for a much less good impression.
Profile view.
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33. Ivan Beneath
Shoe by Ivan Beneath.
If the 2 sneakers above are a bit uneven of their making, this one by Russian shoemaker Ivan Beneath is extra levelled all through. He made the entire shoe himself. No actual hits or misses in any instructions, however not any actual sophisticated elements both that makes the issue factors rise.
Backside work.
Welt seems to be fairly good.
Seen from the facet.
Closing of the higher is fairly well-made.
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34. The Final Shoemaker
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The Final Shoemaker is a brand new model from Thailand, which is a high-end providing of Don’s Footwear, providing hand welted and MTM/bespoke. The competition entry is made by a number of individuals: Allan Donnely made the final, Chan Onthaisong the higher, and Vinia Chartwong the underside making. It’s not probably the most refined shoe, missing some high quality at for instance the stitching of the higher, whereas sole ending and lining seems to be actually good.
Clear sole, with good sharp edges.
The brogue elements has some stitching going very extensive, which doesn’t look 100%.
Basic spherical final.
Beautiful inexperienced lining
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35. Mikhail Burov
Conventional with a twist.
One other Russian bespoke shoemaker, Mikhail Burov, who made the shoe himself besides stitching of the higher which was accomplished by Alexander Kosimovsky. Better part if in all probability the comparatively clear backside and good sole stitching, whereas different elements lacked a bit in refinement and talent.
Sole au pure.
Final stability is a bit off, with the wides a part of the shoe not being levelled on the bottom.
The widening spacing of the laces provides a particular look.
Conventional final form.
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36. Masami Ishizuka
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Masami Ishizuka is coaching shoemaking in Tokyo, Japan. She has accomplished a shoe with a quite particular sample, not least with the medallion that appears kind of like a graphic atom signal. It’s evident that this shoe is made by somebody who’s new into shoemaking, it’s merely made and never that actual within the execution.
Sole is fairly correct.
Facet view.
Vast final.
A distinct model of a medallion.
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37. Francesco Masci
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Francesco Masci is a former lawyer, who now works as a bespoke shoemaker in Rome, Italy, together with his model F&F. The extent of issue on the shoe, with the tight tapered heel and so forth, was larger than the extent of the execution. Sole edge is wobbly and never the smartest of constructing usually. Cool crimson contrasting toe medallion.
Shoe with flush steel toe faucet.
Elongated final.
The only real edge is wobbly and never even. Good curve alongside the again.
The contrasting medallion.
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38. Batyr Bikbulatov
Basic stuff.
Batyr Bikbulatov is a Russian dwelling in Germany since 20 years. He does shoemaking half time outdoors his common job, and has an entry that may be a very traditional full brogue. Higher stitching is of a fairly good degree, backside making has some room for enchancment, now sole is a bit soiled and never fully even.
Sole isn’t the cleanest.
Profile view.
Higher closing is neat and properly made.
Very conventional shoe.
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39. Thivakaran
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An entry from India, from one other novice shoemaker, Thivakaran Palani. The higher is quite particular with diamond punching and swirling stitching. It’s not a neatly made shoe, particularly the welt ending is harsh. The shoe additionally acquired 10% deduction of factors as a result of painted sole.
Sole with an open channel.
High view.
Edge ending and stability not too good.
Swirling stitching of the higher.
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40. Sebastian Makowski
The ultimate shoe of the World Championships in Shoemaking 2019.
Sebastian Makowski from Poland does shoemaking as a passion, and you may’t count on an excellent shoe then. It’s higher making is the most effective half, whereas backside making is a bit harsh. A pleasant contact is the crimson lining.
A sole that would do properly with extra glassing and sanding, to take ending higher.
Facet-view.
Hand punched holes.
Crimson lining is a pleasant element.
Pt.1 with extra information in regards to the contest and positions 1-10 might be discovered right here.
