That is half two of the huge walkthrough of all competitors footwear within the World Championships in Shoemaking 2019. Right here place 11 to 40 is reviewed with feedback and footage.
Pt.1 with extra information concerning the contest and positions 1-10 could be discovered right here.
Outcomes (click on on maker/model to go on to abstract):
11. Dettagli D`Autore
12. Yim Shoemaker
13. Perticone – Seiichi Yoshimoto
14. EuGo
15. Athanase Sephocle
16. Kiyo
17. Lu Yang
18. Fumiya Ando
19. Barbavitra Shoemaker
20. Sergey Grechushkin
21. Naoki Sugimoto
22. Reid Elrod
23. Masachika Morita
24. Oh Sang Jun
25. Rozsnyai Handmade Footwear
26. Valentin Frunza
27. Tomohiro Inamori
28. Jan Buda
29. Lawart
30. Alexey Sod
31. Andrey Kaveshnikov
32. Taichi Shimizu
33. Ivan Beneath
34. The Final Shoemaker
35. Mikhail Burov
36. Masami Ishizuka
37. Francesco Masci
38. Batyr Bikbulatov
39. Thivakaran
40. Sebastian Makowski
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11. Dettagli D’Autore
A bit chunkier, but actually refined.
Dettagli D’Autore was born in 2019, within the coronary heart of the Italian shoemaking area of Marche, Montegranaro, from the collaboration between a designer Giulio Giacinti (who made the final and sample of the shoe) and shoemaker Bogdan Paul Betianu (who did the underside making), that they had assist from Giacomo Mezzabotta who did the higher and the corporate Maximoda who did the brass toe faucet. The shoe is a high-quality instance of shoemaking, with not least extraordinarily high-quality sole stitching, and a heel constructed from many tremendous skinny layers of leather-based.
Sole with very slim waist and properly brass nail embellished heel.
Profile view.
Very tight sole stitching, sadly didn’t have the likelihood to measure the precise spi.
Heel constructed of very skinny layers with a special design of the higher edge.
Fairly basic final form.
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12. Yim Shoemaker
Seems like a sports activities automobile.
Chinese language Grey Yim, who runs Yim Shoemaker, has made a reputation of himself first by means of a collaboration with Japanese agency Hobu, later by means of his personal Instagram. Aggressive final shapes and making is what most recognise him for, which can be evident on the earth championship entry. It’s an awesome shoe, with good options just like the cuban heel, tight sole stitching and a stunning wanting sole. It has some minor setbacks within the execution, and acquired barely much less on design seemingly as a result of a little bit of an unbalance, however general a really good entry.
A really attractive backside, so clear and well-made.
Fiddle again waist.
A bit heavy in direction of the entrance, maybe not completely balanced final and sample.
Considered one of fairly few cuban heels (when they’re concave, not solely tapering).
High view, the place the spade sole form comes to indicate.
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13. Perticone – Seiichi Yoshimoto
Numerous decorations on this high-quality instance of a full brogue.
Perticone, or Seiichi Yoshimoto, a Japanese shoemaker primarily based in Italy, was positioned 18th in final years contest. This 12 months he’s discovered 5 locations up, with a really good entry. Seiichi Yoshimoto has executed all components of the shoe besides the higher closing, which has been made by Pina (ITALIANA). It’s a shoe with a number of decorations, blended kinds of brogeing, punched decorations on sides and again, wheel marked sole, and so forth.
Properly embellished sole.
Streamlined final form.
Fairly neat sole stitching.
The closing of the higher has some small errors right here and there.
Squared toe.
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14. EuGo
An impressed shoe.
One other climber, final years 23rd positioned is now up at 14th place. EuGo is the model of Yeruult Gombosed from Mongolia. He splits the time between Mongolia, the place he has his euGo model, and San Francisco within the US, the place he collaborates with American bootmaker Frank Beneducci. Numerous effort has clearly been put into this shoe, with some attractive components just like the golden lining and accompanying toe and heel plates. Making is of a extremely good degree, whereas the issue is okay however not particular.
Pretty work right here.
Precision.
The gold shining from the entrance, again and higher components of the shoe seems actually good from this angle.
High view.
Golden lining.
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15. Athanase Sephocle
A shoe with authority.
This can be a actually well-built shoe, scored excessive on execution, a bit much less on issue and design. With that mentioned, Athanase Sephocle who’s a backside maker working for Berluti in France, have made some fairly sophisticated components, particularly the lifted center a part of the only real and the very tight nail sample within the heel. It’s that sort of backside which you could stand admiring for a very long time. Athanase made all components besides the higher making, which was executed by Sarah Verlac.
Such a pleasant sole and heel.
To make this properly formed elevation isn’t simple.
Fairly stable look.
Fairly basic full brogue sample, other than the higher dealing with.
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16. Kiyo
Very conventional tackle the complete brogue oxford.
Kiyo, or Kiyo Uda as is his full identify, is a bespoke shoemaker primarily based in Tokyo. He does some MTO, MTM and bespoke beneath his personal identify, and in addition outwork for different corporations. The shoe is made solely by him. It’s a really conventional shoe, with sq. exterior waist and a fundamental sample. The closing and making is completely high-quality, though you will discover areas that aren’t 100%, just like the heel with a bit uneven lifts and a sligthly flimsy sole edge at some locations. Good shoe, however a bit plain.
Additionally the underside could be very conventional.
Right here you may see a few the areas the place there may be room for enchancment, the heel and sole edge on the waist which are a bit uneven.
Clear good work right here.
Final with tender sq. toe.
Neat closing.
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17. Lu Yang
Particular designed shoe.
One other Chinese language contestant, Lu Yang is a bespoke shoemaker, who’ve made all components of the shoe, whereas Jiao Yang made the design. It was a bit debated within the jury if it had been to be seen as correct brogueing, however we determined to go away it with no deduction of factors. It’s a fairly cool shoe, maybe not completely balanced, and the diploma of issue is increased than the extent of the execution. Tremendous slim waist with particularly an outdoor half that goes in lengthy, offers the shoe a particular character.
Very slender waist.
Arrow formed heel.
From above.
You get a little bit of a cowboy boot really feel when wanting on the shoe in profile.
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18. Fumiya Ando
A comparatively spherical model.
Japanese maker Fumiya Ando managed to snap a fifth place in final 12 months’s world championships, this 12 months he’s discovered a bit additional down. It’s nonetheless entry he offers us this 12 months, little doubt a bout it, each the making and issue degree is sweet, although not on the absolute highest degree. The aesthetics of the shoe additionally seems a bit off, with a bulkier entrance half clashing a bit in opposition to a slim, elegant again a part of the shoe. Fumiya Ando was once an artwork scholar, however has now made footwear for about 4 years, so fairly new on this recreation.
Clear and basic.
Right here you may see how the front and back components of the shoe doesn’t actually go collectively aesthetically.
Very tapered, elegant heel., with some seen lighter areas between a number of the heel lifts.
Very good work right here.
Quick toe, lengthy vamp.
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19. Barbavitra Shoemaker
One other tremendous basic full brogue.
Barbavitra Shoemaker is the model of one other Japanese, Yasuhiro Koui. He has made the entire shoe himself. A stupendous shoe, basic type that appears prefer it may come from an previous British bespoke agency, and in addition well-made. Nothing that basically stands out in both manner, however an general degree that present ability. Good components embrace the correct welt ending and the beautiful manner the tapered heel continues the form of the again when seen in profile.
The glue from closing the channel has precipitated some darker areas on the only real in direction of the sides, in any other case neat and good.
Basic spherical final form.
Slight fiddle again.
Value mentioning, though it’s not a part of what the jury have a look at, is the leather-based which is a stunning darkish brown color of tremendous good high quality.
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20. Sergey Grechushkin
A streamlined model.
Russian bespoke shoemaker Sergey Grechushkin, who run the model G-shoes, has made a shoe that varies a bit within the degree of the making. Heel and waist work is sweet and really elegantly executed and the closing is at leve, whereas the welt and sole edge ending is a bit coarse and has its flaws. Evgeniy Zelentinov did the design and higher, Sergey Gregushkin did the making.
Plain sole, with a “peach backside”, which is when the only real is simply sanded.
High view.
The very skinny waist is clear from this view.
Almont toe.
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21. Naoki Sugimoto
A “battleship” model of the complete brogue mannequin.
Naoki Sugimoto is one in every of many unbiased Japanese bespoke shoemakers who work purchase themselves, and the shoe is an effective piece of footwear. Particularly the well-made heel stands out, with the evenly made concave form and with a transparent levelling in direction of the waist, making it stand alone in good wanting manner.
Backside is very nice, with an excellent sharp toe.
The heel is without doubt one of the issues that stand out with regards to the extent of issue, with the slight Cuban heel form, the lifted prime half and the distinct nodge over to the waist edge.
The unfinished inside certainly eliminated some factors on the execution aspect.
Good heel.
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22. Reid Elrod
Cool shoe.
Reid Elrod of Elrod Footwear, a younger shoemaker primarily based in Portland, USA, studied shoemaking in Europe just a few years in the past, and has been working from dwelling within the US, connecting the European and American shoemaking traditions in a pleasant manner. He has some fascinating sample work on this shoe, and components had been excessive on issue, just like the tight sole stitching.
“Fish bone” decorations.
Tight sole stitching.
The closing of the higher is sweet, however nonetheless some room for enchancment.
Profile view, with the particular heel counter exhibiting off.
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23. Masachika Morita
A very good shoe.
We are actually down on 23rd place, and as evident right here the extent of the footwear are nonetheless on a excessive degree. This barely particular sample full brogue is made by Japanese Masachika Morita, now primarily based in Italy, who additionally run the model GranGoron. It’s stable shoemaking, and the extent of issue continues to be fairly excessive. Aesthetically perhaps not everyones cup of tea with the sharp toe and the excessive toe spring.
Properly completed sole.
Comparatively lengthy toe and excessive toe spring.
Very pointy final.
The nail decorations within the toe had been a bit raised, which seems good.
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24. Oh Sang Jun
Barely bulkier look.
Oh Sang Jun is from South Korea, although he realized to make footwear in Japan about ten years in the past, whereas now working from his dwelling nation. His shoe reveals of some fairly good making general and good options just like the tight sole stitching, close-cut waist edge and so forth. Some minor errors right here and there that took away on the scoreboard.
Had some errors in ending the sting ink, in any other case a extremely clear sole.
Actually tight edge on the waist.
A pleasant element is the absolutely punched higher of the tongue.
The shoe isn’t completely balanced, with the heel elevating from the bottom within the again.
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25. Rozsnyai Handmade Footwear
A shoe with loads of good design options.
A shoe made by the Hungarian agency Rozsnyai, positioned on the identical road as different well-known Hungarian manufacturers like Vass, and who make hand welted RTW, MTO and MTM. Good to see such a firms getting into the competition as effectively. The shoe is a properly designed one, with varied “peaks” returning on totally different parts of the shoe, in all places from the liner and a number of other locations on the higher toe the breast of the heel and the toe faucet. Sándor Rozsnyai did the sample, Mária Kocsis the higher, and Sándor Blaskó the underside making.
The only.
The peaks as design ingredient had been use all through the shoe.
High view.
The making was fairly okay, however not essentially the most refined.
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26. Valentin Frunza
A shoe that has some cowboy boot really feel about it.
Moldovan shoemaker Valentin Frunza began to study shoemaking in his fathers workshop already on the age of 12, and has run his personal model for a few years now. The shoe has some clear influences from cowboy boots, with the toe form and excessive toe spring, the accentuated waist form, and the big brogue holes. Each the extent of issue in addition to the execution is at a greater than first rate degree, whereas a bit plain maybe.
Hour glass formed backside.
Toe.
A excessive toe spring.
Pointy from the highest.
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27. Tomohiro Inamori
Right here a a lot rounder take.
Extra Japanese representatives, Tomohiri Inamori has executed the entire shoe himself, a fairly spherical full brogue that will get a barely particular look with the sparse brogueing and small tweaks of a basic sample. The shoe seems higher from above than from beneath, higher, welt and heel making is general fairly good.
Not the cleanest sole ending, and waist not tremendous refined.
Fairly good closing, actually pretty with the contrasting piping on the opening.
The sample clashes a bit between the squarish corners on the quarter and the very tender rounded vamp edge, whereas it nonetheless handle to look fairly balanced.
Sole stitching and welt ending is well-made.
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28. Jan Buda
A Polish entry.
Jan Buda is a Polish bespoke shoemaker, who has labored for a few years, though considerably beneath the radar for a lot of internationally. He was a bit harassed placing collectively his shoe, which is a bit evident, for instance with the comparatively sloppy toe burnishing that makes the fast look lack a bit. Considered one of just a few entries with pegged waist. Better part might be the beautiful constructed and completed heel.
Properly balanced backside.
Waist made with pegs of Brazilian Tatajuba wooden, very laborious carrying.
The toe has a distinctly chiseled prime.
The closing isn’t essentially the most refined.
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29. Lawart
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A really bold shoe by the Czech bespoke model Lawart, the place Erik Martin Lawart has made final, sample and making, and Aneta Gretzova made the higher. It’s a completely hand stitched shoe, the place the higher stitching is dense and well-made, which had been half in gaining the footwear comparatively excessive factors for issue. A bit much less effectively on execution, the place there nonetheless is a few technique to go to be as clear as some increased positioned footwear, and the design was not absolutely favored by the jury.
Sole with a bunch of brass nail decorations.
The hand stitched is beautiful made.
Almond toe final form.
Cute sock lining, additionally hand stitched.
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30. Alexey Sod
Robust shoe.
One other bold entry, this shoe is made by Alexey Sod, a Russian bespoke shoemaker understanding of the town Nizhny Tagil. If the higher was the large feat on the earlier shoe, right here it’s the only real stitching, which is at very excessive spi and in addition made to a pleasant degree. Apart from this there’s some good and a few much less good components, and designwise it comes of as a bit off.
Good ornament within the again, whereas the toe faucet wasn’t to properly executed, thick and never flush with the only real.
Profile view, very heavy heel.
Wonderful sole stitching, very tight and really well-made.
High view.
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31. Andrey Kaveshnikov
A shoe with solely single rows of holes, bordering not being a full brogue.
Andrey Kaveshnikov is know beneath the identify Moscow Shoemaker on Instagram. It’s a shoe that may be a bit two-faced, with the fairly giant and bulbous toe in distinction with the small, tapered heel. Might have been higher balanced. As final 12 months good sole stitching.
The underside seems fairly neat.
Massive in entrance.
Right here you may see how the small, tapered heel doesn’t add up along with the remainder of the shoe.
Seen from beneath although, it seems wonderful, with good nail sample.
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32. Taichi Shimizu
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Taichi Shimizu is a Japanese who works as an apprentice for Carlino in Italy. He’s fairly new in shoemaking, which you’ll be able to see on the shoe, the place the execution is a bit shaky. Heel constructing and heel backside ending is sweet, whereas the only real edge and sole ending isn’t on the identical degree. Additionally the higher stitching is diverse in high quality.
Good heel, much less good sole ending.
Some huge errors of the higher, like the middle of the wingtip, made for a much less good impression.
Profile view.
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33. Ivan Beneath
Shoe by Ivan Beneath.
If the 2 footwear above are a bit uneven of their making, this one by Russian shoemaker Ivan Beneath is extra levelled all through. He made the entire shoe himself. No actual hits or misses in any instructions, however not any actual sophisticated components both that makes the issue factors rise.
Backside work.
Welt seems fairly good.
Seen from the aspect.
Closing of the higher is fairly well-made.
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34. The Final Shoemaker
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The Final Shoemaker is a brand new model from Thailand, which is a high-end providing of Don’s Footwear, providing hand welted and MTM/bespoke. The competition entry is made by a number of folks: Allan Donnely made the final, Chan Onthaisong the higher, and Vinia Chartwong the underside making. It’s not essentially the most refined shoe, missing some high quality at for instance the stitching of the higher, whereas sole ending and lining seems actually good.
Clear sole, with good sharp edges.
The brogue components has some stitching going very extensive, which doesn’t look 100%.
Basic spherical final.
Pretty inexperienced lining
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35. Mikhail Burov
Conventional with a twist.
One other Russian bespoke shoemaker, Mikhail Burov, who made the shoe himself besides stitching of the higher which was executed by Alexander Kosimovsky. Better part if in all probability the comparatively clear backside and good sole stitching, whereas different components lacked a bit in refinement and ability.
Sole au pure.
Final stability is a bit off, with the wides a part of the shoe not being levelled on the bottom.
The widening spacing of the laces offers a particular look.
Conventional final form.
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36. Masami Ishizuka
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Masami Ishizuka is coaching shoemaking in Tokyo, Japan. She has executed a shoe with a fairly particular sample, not least with the medallion that appears form of like a graphic atom signal. It’s evident that this shoe is made by somebody who’s new into shoemaking, it’s merely made and never that precise within the execution.
Sole is fairly correct.
Facet view.
Vast final.
A unique model of a medallion.
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37. Francesco Masci
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Francesco Masci is a former lawyer, who now works as a bespoke shoemaker in Rome, Italy, together with his model F&F. The extent of issue on the shoe, with the tight tapered heel and so forth, was increased than the extent of the execution. Sole edge is wobbly and never the best of constructing on the whole. Cool purple contrasting toe medallion.
Shoe with flush metallic toe faucet.
Elongated final.
The only edge is wobbly and never even. Good curve alongside the again.
The contrasting medallion.
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38. Batyr Bikbulatov
Basic stuff.
Batyr Bikbulatov is a Russian residing in Germany since 20 years. He does shoemaking half time exterior his common job, and has an entry that may be a very basic full brogue. Higher stitching is of a fairly good degree, backside making has some room for enchancment, now sole is a bit soiled and never fully even.
Sole isn’t the cleanest.
Profile view.
Higher closing is neat and effectively made.
Very conventional shoe.
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39. Thivakaran
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An entry from India, from one other beginner shoemaker, Thivakaran Palani. The higher is fairly particular with diamond punching and swirling stitching. It’s not a neatly made shoe, particularly the welt ending is harsh. The shoe additionally acquired 10% deduction of factors as a result of painted sole.
Sole with an open channel.
High view.
Edge ending and stability not too good.
Swirling stitching of the higher.
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40. Sebastian Makowski
The ultimate shoe of the World Championships in Shoemaking 2019.
Sebastian Makowski from Poland does shoemaking as a interest, and you’ll’t anticipate an excellent shoe then. It’s higher making is the perfect half, whereas backside making is a bit harsh. A pleasant contact is the purple lining.
A sole that would do effectively with extra glassing and sanding, to take ending higher.
Facet-view.
Hand punched holes.
Pink lining is a pleasant element.
Pt.1 with extra information concerning the contest and positions 1-10 could be discovered right here.
